Zoey Sewalong Day 3 - Strap Method #1 and Side Seams


Welcome back to day 3 of the Zoey Sewalong. Today we start with the straps.

With the Front and Back facing right side up, lay the garment sections out as pictured below.

With right sides touching, pin the notched edge of the strap to the front Front and Back. First, match Strap ends with side seams, and align front and back armhole notches. Single middle notches match to the pointed tops of the Front and Back. Stretch the Strap slightly between notches and add pins as needed.

Serge or sew the armhole seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8" seam allowance, stretching the Strap slightly as you sew. Press seam allowances up toward the Strap and away from the garment.

There are two options for the straps, the first option (which we will cover today) is easier to get an even finish to your strap width as they are finished flat and then the side seams are sewn up. The downside is that it is not as clean on the inside of the garment.

The second option (which we will be covering tomorrow) finishes the straps in the round. It's a bit more tricky, but in the end gives a cleaner finish.

 If you want to use option 1, continue. If you prefer option 2, come back tomorrow to finish up your Zoey.    


With the wrong side facing up, fold the Strap back down along the middle fold line, placing the lower folded edge slightly past the seam line, stretching to fit.

Continue your fold across the length of the Strap piece between the middle notches, creating the strap that connects the Front to the Back. Press.

Pin the Strap in place, stretching to fit as needed.

Note that if you are  using the the fusible knit tape, remove paper backing from the double-sided fusible knit tape. Then follow the previous step, allowing the fusible to help you place the folded edge of the Band/Strap neatly over the seamline. Depending on your fabric, you may or may not need to add additional pins.

Using a stretch stitch, edgestitch the Band/Strap along the lower folded edge to secure. Be sure to catch the folded edge of the strap as you sew. Once stitched, use the steam setting on your iron to press and reshape as needed. 

Repeat previous steps for remaining strap.


With right sides touching, pin Front to Back at sides, matching raw edges and underarm seams.

Starting at the top of the Band (and being extra careful that they line up), baste the side seams and try on to check fit. Adjust as necessary. Once happy with the fit, serge or sew the side seams with a stretch stitch in a 3/8" seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the Back.

Using a straight stitch, sew 1/4" toward the back of each underarm seam along the width of the band, catching the seam allowances underneath. This will help the band to lie flat.

Reshape the bands with your iron (set to steam) as needed.


That is all for today. Come back tomorrow where we will go over the second option for the straps and side seams and also finish the hem of our garment.