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Zoey Sewalong Day 2 - Front and Back Neck Bands





Welcome back for day 2 of the Zoey Sewalong. Today we will be attaching the front and back neckbands. Let's start with the back neckband first.

BACK NECK BAND

If using fusible knit tape, remove paper backing first.

With right sides touching, pin the back Neck Band to the back neckline, first matching center double notches. 

Next match the ends.

Continue pinning the Back Neck Band to the back neckline, stretching the band to fit in between each pin. 

Note: The band is slightly smaller than the neckline. This helps it to roll neatly toward the neckline when finished. You will need to stretch the neckband to fit.

Serge or sew the back neck band seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8" seam allowance, stretching the band to fit as you sew.

Note: Although possible on your serger, I find that it's easier to accurately attach the neck and shoulder bands with a regular sewing machine due to the intricate angles at the intersections. I use a zigzag stitch on my machine with a width of 0.5mm and a length of about 2.5mm. 

Press the seam allowances up toward the Back Neck Band and away from the main garment.

With the wrong side facing up, fold the Back Neck Band down along the middle fold line, placing the lower folded edge slightly pas the seam line, as pictured.

Pin the Back Neck Band in place, making sure that the width of the band is even on the right side of the garment. If using fusible knit tape, use your iron with steam to help you place and secure the folded edge neatly over the seamline. Depending on your fabric, you may or may not need to add pins as well.

 Using a stretch stitch, edgestitch the Back Neck Band along the lower folded edge to secure. Be sure to catch the folded edge of the Neck Band as you sew.

Once stitched, use the steam setting on your iron to press and reshape the neckline as needed.

FRONT NECK BAND

Attach the Front Neck Band in the same manner as the Back Neck Band. Match the center of the V-shaped neckline with the center notch of the band.

Match up the ends and pin in place. Continue pinning the Front Neck Band to the front neckline, stretching the band to fit in between each pin.

Serge or sew the Front Neck Band seam with a stretch stitch in a 3/8" seam allowance, pulling the band and neckline straight as you sew past the center front V.

Press seam allowances up towards the Front Neck Band.

Turn over the garment so that the wrong side of the front is facing up. Fold the Front Neck Band back down along the middle fold line, placing the lower folded edge slightly pas the seam line as pictured. Note: There will be extra fabric where the center front V meets the neckband. 

Pin the Front Neck Band in place, making sure that the width of the band is even on the right side of the garment. 

Optional- If using fusible knit tape, use your iron with steam to help you place and secure the folded edge neatly over the seamline. Depending on your fabric, you may or may not need to add pins as well.

Using a stretch stitch, topstitch the Front Neck Band along the lower folded edge to secure. Be sure to catch the folded underside edge of the Neck Band as you sew. Once again, pull the neckband straight as you sew past the center front V.

Once stitched, use the steam setting on your iron to press and reshape the neckline as needed.

With right sides touching, fold the front in half.

Change machine stitch to a straight stitch, 1.5 mm in length.

Stitch a 3/8" wedge out of the neckline, ending at the topstitching as pictured below. If sewing View C (dress option), be extra careful that the wedge stitching lines up with the center front seamline.

Press wedge to one side. Press and steam whole front neckband.

And that is all for today. Tomorrow we will resume the Zoey sewalong with the straps.