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Tobie Sewalong Day 5





Welcome back for the last day of the Tobie sewalong. Today we attach the lining and do all of the finishing details.

ALL VIEWS
Step 52 - Turn both the main jacket and jacket Facing / Lining inside out (including the sleeves).

With right sides touching, line up the edges of the jacket and Facing / Lining. The zipper, Zipper Shield, and Collar should be pointing inwards towards the jacket and will be sandwiched in the middle. I am showing you view A here, but the steps are the same for both views. Pin.

Stitch along the bottom Facing edge, along the center front zipper edge, the neckline, and down the other side in the same manner, all at a normal 1⁄2” seam allowance. When applicable, sew right on top of the stitching you previously used to baste or attach pieces. 

 

Step 53 - With right sides touching, pin the bottom edge of the Lining to the top of the Waistband, matching notches, seams, and dots. The Waistband should be tucked inside of the jacket with the seam allowances extended.

Sew at a normal seam allowance, from one dot to the other, stretching the Waistband flat as you sew and backstitching at both ends. Be extra careful to stitch right on top of the previous stitch lines, and start and stop right at the dots. 

 

Step 54 - Without twisting, match a Sleeve and its coordinating Sleeve Lining at the hem. The Wristband should be tucked inside of the jacket with the seam allowances extended. Tuck the bottom folded edge of the Sleeve Lining into the Main Sleeve, matching seams and notches. Pin.

Pulling the seam allowances away from the Sleeve, stitch on top of the previous stitch lines through all layers.

Step 55 - Trim, clip, and grade seam allowances on the entire jacket as needed.

Pull the jacket right side out through the opening in the underarm of the Sleeve Lining.

Make sure the Collar, Bands, Zipper Shield, and zipper are all pulled away from the main jacket. Take some time giving it a good press.

Once you are happy with your seams and corners, slipstitch the opening in the Sleeve Lining closed. 

Step 56 - Cover the seam allowances of the Facing on the inside of the jacket. Pin (or use a glue stick) in place over the Waistband.

Step 57 - Stretching as you sew, edgestitch the Sleeve 1/8” from the Wristband seam.

Stretching as you sew, edgestitch the jacket 1/8” from the Waistband seam, pivoting at the front corner. As you stitch across the front side edge of the Waistband, the Facing on the inside will be secured. 

VIEW A ONLY

(FOR VIEW B, SKIP AHEAD TO STEP 59.)

Step 58 - Edgestitch along the zipper and neckline edge, 1/8” in from the seams, pivoting at the corners to sew in one continuous line of stitching.

If you were sewing View A, congrats! You are finished.

 

VIEW B ONLY

Step 59 - With right sides touching, fold the Zipper Cover in half lengthwise (along the edge of the interfacing).

Sew the short ends. Trim the corners and seam allowances. Turn right side out. Press.

Step 60 - With right sides touching (the right side is the side with interfacing), pin the Zipper Cover to the right Front edge, 1⁄2” in from the seam where the jacket meets the zipper and the Collar edge. The top and bottom of the Cover should line up with the top of the Collar and bottom of the Waistband.

Stitch through all layers at a normal 1⁄2” seam allowance. 

Step 61 - Trim the seam allowances down to 1⁄8”.

Press the Zipper Cover towards center front and over the seam allowances. Stitch through all layers, 1⁄4” in from the seam. 

Step 62 - Starting at the bottom of the left Front, edgestitch along the zipper, 1/8” from the seam. Pivoting at each corner, continue edgestitching along the Collar and Zipper Cover. 

Step 63 - Using the markings on the pattern pieces, hand sew the male side of the snaps to the inside of the Zipper Cover and Pocket Flaps, making sure to only sew through the inside layers and not through the visible side.

Use the male side of the snaps to position the female sides on the left side of the jacket and the Pockets (I put a dab of toothpaste on the point of the male snap and position it over the left side to mark the female snap position) and hand sew accordingly. 

If you were sewing View B, congrats! You are finished.