On the fourth day of the Tobie sewalong we are going to jump right in with attaching the waistband. Let's get sewing.
ALL VIEWS
(The waistband instructions are the same for both views, but I will try to show both as much as possible.)
Step 42 - With right sides touching, pin the Waistband to the bottom of the main jacket. Start by lining up the dots and pin carefully.
Next, stretch the Waistband to fit, matching up notches and seams. Pin generously.
Step 43 - Stitch at a normal 1⁄2” seam allowance, stretching the Waistband flat as you sew.
Reduce the stitch length to 1.5 mm for two inches in either direction of the dots. At each of the dots, leave your needle down, pull the bottom of the Main Front straight, and turn the Waistband to match up with the edge. Continue stitching the angle. Note that the Waistband should end 1⁄2” above the bottom of the Main Front as shown.
This can be a bit tricky, especially a the corners, so it’s a good idea to baste this step first.
Press the seam allowances away from the Waistband and towards the main jacket.
Step 44 - With right sides touching, pin each Wristband to the bottom of each Sleeve, matching the notches and the seam of the Wristband to the underarm seam.
Stretch the Wristbands to fit as you stitch.
Press the Wristband down and away from the Sleeve.
Repeat for both wristbands.
Step 45 - With right sides touching, fold the Zipper Shield in half along the edge of the interfacing.
Sew the two short ends.
Trim the seam allowances and turn right side out. Press.
Step 46 - Unzip the zipper. Place each side face down along the center front edges so that the inside edge of the zipper teeth sit 1/2” in from the center front raw edges. The bottom of the zipper should be between 5/8" and 3/4" above the bottom edge of the Front, and the top zipper tooth should be 5/8" from the top raw edge. If you have zipper tape, it's very helpful here. If not, pin in place.
If you need to shorten your zipper, do so from the top. If you are using a metal zipper, shorten it using a pair of pliers. Be careful not to pull the zipper pull past the top once you have taken off the stopper.
Step 47 - Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, baste along the zipper teeth (about 1⁄2” from the raw edge). Zip up the jacket to ensure that the zipper lines up correctly. Adjust if needed.
Step 48 - With right sides touching (the right side of the Shield is the side with interfacing), line the raw edges of the Zipper Shield up with the raw edges of the left front and zipper. The Zipper Shield may be slightly shorter than the zipper and should be centered. Baste.
VIEW A ONLY
(FOR VIEW B, SKIP AHEAD TO STEP 50.)
Step 49 - With right sides touching, pin the Collar to the neckline edge of the main jacket, stretching to fit and matching notches.
Baste at a normal 1⁄2” seam allowance.
Be extra careful that the ends lay right above the top zipper teeth on each side.
VIEW B ONLY
(FOR VIEW A, SKIP AHEAD TO STEP 52.)
Step 50 - With right sides touching, pin the two collar pieces together.
Stitch around the side and top edges, pivoting at the corners.
Trim the corners, notch the curved edge and grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk. Turn right side out. Press. The right side of the Collar is the one with interfacing.
Step 51 - With right sides touching, pin the bottom edge of the Collar to the neckline, matching notches and being extra careful that the sides of the Collar end just inside of the zipper teeth on both sides.
Baste.
And that is it for today. Come back tomorrow and we will finish it all up.