Welcome back to the third day of the Tobie sewalong. Let's jump in and tackle the lining (for all views).
Step 26 - With right sides touching, pin the Front Facings to the Back Facing at the shoulders. Stitch.
Press seam allowances open.
Repeat for the Front and Back Linings - pin at the shoulders, stitch, and press seam allowances open.
Step 27 - With right sides touching, pin the Facing to the Lining, matching notches, dots, and shoulder seams. This can feel weird since it it is two opposite curves, but just use lots of pins and it will work out.
Stitch, stopping at the lower dot on both Fronts, and backstitching.
Press seam allowances towards the Lining.
At the first notch from the bottom, clip into the seam allowance of the Facing, stopping just before the stitchline. Press the seam allowance below the clip towards the Facing, including below the dots.
Step 28 - With right sides touching, pin each Lining Under Sleeve to its coordinating Lining Top Sleeve.
Stitch.
Press seam allowances open.
Step 29 - With right sides touching, pin each Sleeve Lining to its coordinating Sleeve Lining opening. Match the front and back notches, and the middle notch to the shoulder seam.
Stitch.
Press seam allowances open.
Step 30 - With right sides touching, line up the raw edges of the underarm and side seams of the Lining. Pin.
Stitch. On one Sleeve, leave an unstitched opening between the notches. This will be the opening use to turn our jacket right side out in later steps.
Press the seam allowances open, including the unstitched section.
Step 31 - Fold the bottom edges of each Sleeve lining up, wrong sides touching, by 1⁄2”, and press.
Step 32 - (Note that View A (ribbing) is shown, but this step is applicable to both views.)
With right sides touching, pin the short ends of the Front Waistbands to the sides of the Back Waistband (the sides without the dots).
Stitch.
Press seam allowances open.
VIEW A ONLY
(FOR VIEW B, SKIP AHEAD TO STEP 35.)
Step 33 - Fold the Neckband, Waistband, and Wristbands in half, wrong sides touching and matching notches. Press. Use lots of steam to really get a good crease.
Step 34 - Open each Wristband and pin the short ends together, right sides touching.
Stitch.
Press seam allowances open.
Fold each Wristband back up on the pressed line, lining up the raw edges.
VIEW B ONLY
(FOR VIEW A, SKIP AHEAD TO STEP 42.)
Step 35 - Fold the whole Waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides touching. Press.
Stitch across the top using a 1⁄2” seam allowance.
Step 36 - Using a safety pin or similar tool, thread the elastic (cut to the specified length on page 2) through the Waistband casing, lining up the edges of the elastic with the edges of the Waistband.
Distribute the gathers evenly along the Waistband and press.
Secure the elastic by stitching through all layers along the short ends at a normal 1⁄2” seam allowance.
Step 37 - Fold each Wristband in half lengthwise, matching notches and wrong sides touching. Press.
Step 38 - Open the Wristbands back up. Line up the sides, right sides touching, and pin.
Stitch.
Press seam allowances open.
Step 39 - Fold the Wristbands back up on the previously pressed line, matching the raw edges, seams, and notches.
Stitch along the top edge, leaving half of the edge unstitched.
Step 40 - Using a safety pin or similar tool, insert the elastic (cut to the specified length on page 2) through the casing, leaving the ends hanging out of the opening. Overlap the ends by 1⁄2” and stitch to secure. Because the elastic is wide and the wristband is small, this can feel a bit difficult. Just go slowly and make sure that you do not twist the elastic t at all before sewing the ends.
Step 41 - Insert the remaining elastic into the Wristband. Carefully stitch the rest of the opening. Distribute the gathers evenly along the Wristband and press.
And that is it! Come back tomorrow and we will keep sewing up our Tobie jackets.