Welcome back to the second day of the Tobie sewalong. We are going to start off with sewing the patch pockets for View B. These patch pockets are special because they have a top entry pocket for things like phones and keys, and then a second pocket behind the first with it's own entry at the side to keep your hands warm.
Once we are done with the pockets we will do the main jacket assembly for both views.
VIEW B ONLY (FOR VIEW A, SKIP AHEAD TO STEP 21.)
Step 11 - Note that we are illustrating the attachment of the right Patch Pocket, but do all steps for both the left and right side.
I find that the easiest was to keep track of all of the pattern pieces is to mark the wrong side of each pattern piece and an arrow for the top of the pattern piece. Each pocket has a main piece and a pair of lining pieces that are opposites.(Note the notch placement on the Pocket to keep track of the top and bottom of each piece).
With right sides touching, line the top edges up of the main Patch Pocket and one of the Patch Pocket Linings. Pin and stitch the upper edge.
Step 12 - Take the second Patch Pocket Lining and fold down the seam allowance (1⁄2”) along the top edge, wrong sides touching.
Step 13 - Open the sewn Pocket pieces and slip the folded Patch Pocket Lining in the middle so that the top folded edge lines up with the seam line and the right sides of the Patch Pocket Linings face one another.
Pin and stitch along the side seam with notches, through all layers.
Trim the seam allowances and the corner to reduce bulk.
Step 14 - Turn the corner and seams right side out, pulling the middle Lining away from the rest of the Pocket. Press.
Pull the middle Lining towards the back of the Pocket so that the right sides of the two Lining pieces are touching.
Line up the remaining raw edges and sew the seam allowance (1⁄2”) through all layers.
Trim down the seam allowances to about 1/4” and finish them by either serging, zigzag stitching, or using pinking shears. I like to serge them and trim at the same time.
Step 15 - Edgestitch between the notches on the side seam, 1/8” from the finished edge. You may need to grab your pattern piece and remark the side notches first.
Step 16 - Flip the Pocket over. Turn the finished seam allowances towards the back of the Pocket, folding along the stitchline. Press.
Step 17 - Lay the Pocket on the Front, matching the corners with the four dot markings. The side of the Pocket with the notches and topstitching should be closest to the side edge of the Front. Pin the bottom and sides through all layers. Pin the top through the folded edge of the Lining piece ONLY. I like to use a glue stick to attach pockets instead of pins. If you do this, make sure the glue dries before sewing on your machine so you don't gum up your machine.
Carefully pull the rest of the Pocket away and edgestitch along the top Lining edge, getting as close into the corners as you can.
Step 18 - Edgestitch the rest of the Pocket through all layers, 1/8” from the edge of the Pocket. Start about 3/4" down from the top edge and sew up at an angle to create a triangle at each top corner. Do not sew over the previous topstitching on the side of the Pocket as this will be your side Pocket opening. Instead, backstitch just before and after the stitching and continue stitching around the Pocket edges. When finished, make a small bartack at the top and bottom of the opening for reinforcement.
The pocket has both a top and side entry - both are different pocket openings.
Step 19 - With right sides touching, pin your Main Pocket Flap to its Lining. Stitch around the side and bottom edges.
Trim seam allowances and corners to reduce bulk. Turn it right side out and press.
Topstitch 1⁄4” from the side and bottom edges.
Step 20 - Center the Pocket Flap with the Main Pocket (the Flap is intentionally a bit wider than the Pocket), with the right side of the Pocket Flap touching the right side of the Front, and the bottom raw edges of the Flap placed 1/2” above the top edge of the Patch Pocket.
Stitch at a normal 1⁄2” seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance to 1⁄8”.
Press the Pocket Flap down along the stitchline. Sew 1⁄4” from the top edge through all layers.
Once you have finished this Pocket and Flap, do everything for the other side as well.
ALL VIEWS
Step 21 - With right sides touching, pin the Upper Back to the Lower Back.
Stitch.
Press seam allowances up towards the Upper Back.
Topstitch the Upper Back 1/4” above the seam, catching the seam allowances in your line of stitching.
Step 22 - With right sides touching, pin the Main Fronts to the assembled Back at the shoulders.
Stitch. Press seam allowances towards the Back.
Topstitch 1/4” from the seam into the Back, catching the seam allowances in your line of stitching.
Step 23 - With right sides touching, pin each Under Sleeve to its coordinating Top Sleeve.
Stitch.
If your fabric is on the bulky side you may want to trim these seam allowances. Press seam allowances towards the Top Sleeve.
Topstitch 1/4” from the seam into the Top Sleeve, catching the seam allowances in your line of stitching.
Step 24 - With right sides touching, pin each Sleeve to its coordinating sleeve opening. Match the front and back notches, and the middle notch to the shoulder seam. The seams and topstitching of the Sleeve and Back should also line up.
Stitch.
Press seam allowances towards the main jacket.
Topstitch 1/4” from the seam into the main jacket, catching the seam allowances in your line of stitching.
Step 25 - With right sides touching, line up the raw edges of the underarm and side seams. Pin.
Stitch in one continuous line of stitching.
Press seam allowances open.
That is it for today!
