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Tobie Sewalong Day 1





Welcome to the Tobie Sewalong. As our most advanced pattern to date, we think that even experienced sewists will benefit from our sewalong. The sewalong will be broken up into five days. You can find the sewalongs here on our blog in photo format, or on Youtube, in video format. Let's get started.

You will note that I am sewing up both views of the Tobie. View A will be sewn up in the brown corduroy from Lyrical Fabrics, with ribbing from Mood fabrics. View B is sewn up in cotton twill from Blackbird fabrics. A lot of the steps are the same for both views and so I willl be jumping back and forth between the two fabrics as I sew.

All seam allowances are 1⁄2” unless otherwise stated in the instructions. 

(ALL VIEWS)
Step 1 - Before starting, be sure to transfer all notches and dots from your pattern pieces to your fabric. For the notches, I just make a small snip into the triangle with my scissors. For the dots, I like to use washable markers, but use any marking tool you prefer. This pattern relies heavily on markings, especially for that lower center dot, so be very precise with these markings.

For all views, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the Front and Back Facings, half of the Zipper Shield, along the center front zipper edges, and the small inside corner over the lower dot. 

For View A, also fuse the Welt Interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the Welt pieces, and centered behind the welt markings (on the wrong side of the fabric on the main Fronts).

For View B, also apply interfacing to the wrong side of the main Pocket Flaps, one Collar piece, and half of the Zipper Cover.

Step 2 - Reduce your stitch length to 1.5 mm. Staystitch the curved neckline edges of the main Fronts and Back and Facing pieces at a scant 1/2” seam allowance. 

Staystitch a right angle about an inch in either direction of the lower dots, at a 1/2” seam allowance, as shown below. 

Clip into the dots. Be sure to clip very close to, but not through the stitching. 

VIEW A ONLY (For View B, you are done for today.)

For the remainder of today's sewalong we are sewing the Welt pockets for View A. If you have never sewn a Welt Pocket before, I highly recommend practicing on a piece of scrap fabric first. It's not very difficult, but you are cutting into your Front pattern piece so there is no going back if you make a mistake.

Step 3 - With right sides touching, fold each Welt in half, longways. Sew the short sides of each Welt. Clip the corners and trim seam the allowances. Turn each Welt right side out. Press.

Step 4 - Reduce your stitch length to 1.5 mm for all steps of the Welt attachment. Note that we are illustrating the attachment of the right Welt Pocket, but do all steps for both the left and right sides.

If you havn't done so already, mark your welt pocket marking on your fronts.

With the right side of the Front facing up, line the raw edges of the Welt up with the bottom edge of the welt marking. Note that the Welt is longer than the welt marking, so center it on the line.

Lay the Pocket Lining on top of the Welt so the raw edges line up, the right side of the Pocket Lining is facing the Welt, and the Pocket Lining is centered on the Welt (there will be 1⁄2” extended past each side of the Welt ends). Pin.

Sew through all layers at a 1/4” seam allowance, from one edge of the Welt to the other (I find it helpful to mark these points on the Pocket Lining before sewing), backstitching at both ends. 

Step 5 - With right sides touching, line the raw edge of the Main Pocket along the top edge of the Welt marking. The top and bottom edges of the Pocket Lining and Main Pocket should line up.

Pin. Stitch from one edge of the Welt to the other (I find it helpful to mark these points on the Main Pocket before sewing), at a 1⁄4” seam allowance, backstitching at both ends.

Step 6 - Being very precise and using sharp scissors, cut along the welt marking on the Front (just between the raw edges) with the right side facing up. Remember, the marking is shorter than the Pocket pieces so you are cutting in the middle, but leaving space at either end.

This is what it looks like on the wrong side.

On the wrong side, cut from each end to the ends of the Pocket stitching at an angle as shown below. Be extra careful to clip as far into the corners as you can, without catching your stitching, and only cut through the Front (not the Pocket pieces or seam allowances). 

Step 7 - Pull the Pocket Lining, Main Pocket, and seam allowances towards the wrong side of the Front through the Welt opening you just cut. Press along the seams.

Leave the Welt piece on the right side. Press up. If you have any puckers, you may need to clip closer into the corners. 

Step 8 - Pull the Main Pocket down so the right sides of the Main Pocket and Lining are touching each other and the raw edges and notches match up. Pin and press.

Step 9 - Pulling the Pocket away from the Front and backstitching at both ends, stitch around the curved edges of the Pocket. Be extra careful to sew over the triangle flap on both the top and bottom of the Pockets during this line of stitching. This should be at a 1/2" seam allowance all around, but if it's a bit off, it's more important that you are sewing right up against the edge along the triangle.

Step 10 - Press your Pocket, making sure everything is laying correctly. Return your stitch length to a normal 2.5 mm. 

On the right side of each Front, edgestitch the short edges of the Welt through all layers.

Now that this Welt Pocket is done, repeat all of the steps for the other pocket as well.

And that is it for today.