Lora Sew Along Day 4 - Steps 21 - 35

It's the fourth day of the Lora sewalong. Today we are going to be working on the sleeved views of the dress only. If you are sewing views A or C you can skip today and come back tomorrow to finish up your dress.

Step 21 - Lay the lining/facing on top of the main dress, right sides touching. Pin, matching the notches, dots, and seams. The upper angled neckline of the main bodice is slightly longer than the bodice lining so you will need to ease it when stitching and pinning.

Stitch along the center front and bodice edges, leaving the underarm area free from stitching. Pivot at the corners and center front dots.

Note that the button shield and button loops are sandwiched in the middle of the main dress and facing.

Step 22 - Trim corners, notch curved areas, and grade seam allowances where necessary. How bulky your fabric is will determine how much grading you want to do. The seam allowances along the center front help stabilize the button loops and buttons in later steps. 

Step 23 - Turn the facing and lining right side out, manipulating the corners to get nice points. To help the lining and facings stay neatly tucked to the inside of the dress, press the lining and facings away from the main dress and over the seam allowances.

Understitch where possible. I start at the bottom edge of the front facing and understitch to within 1" of the front neckline dot. Do the same thing for the front and back necklines. Continue down the other side of the front facing in the same manner. Make sure that the button loops and button shield stay pressed towards the main dress during the process.

Step 24 - Press well.

Baste the raw edge of the underarm together 3/8" from the raw edge.

This is a good time to try on your Lora dress and check the fit. It will be hard to adjust the side seams once the bodice lining is closed up. 

Step 25 - Pin the bottom folded edge of the lining along the inside seam where the bodice meets the skirt. Be very precise in placement. You can also do it like I  do and use a glue stick to baste it in place.

You can attach the bodice in a couple of ways. For a more high end finish, handstitch the lining to the main dress. This is what I am going to do on this dress. I am just going to do a simple whipstitch, but sew it any way you prefer.

Or, you may choose to create a line of stitching from the right side of the dress, 1/16" inside of the bodice, catching the lining in the stitchline underneath. If you want to attach the bodice lining in this way, look back at yesterday's sewalong for photos.

Step 26 - With the right sides touching, pin and stitch the underarm seam of the sleeves.

Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner (I'm serging mine).

Press the seam allowances open or toward the back. 

Step 27 - With the right sides touching, pin the underarm section of one sleeve to the raw edges of the underarm of the coordinating bodice, matching all notches and seams and matching the finished edges of the front and back bodice at the dots on the sleeve.


Step 28 - Prepare the sleeve bias casing by pressing in the short ends by 1/2" and the unnotched long edge by 1/4".

Step 29 - With the right sides touching, pin the notched edge of the bias casing to the top of the sleeve, matching the center notch and dots. The ends of the casing should extend by about 1" into the underarm of the bodice on either side. 

Step 30 - Stitch through all layers from one end of the casing to the other using a normal 1/2" seam allowance.

Trim the raw edges of the underarm and 1" into the bias binding to 3/8".

Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.

Trim the remaining seam allowance of the sleeve and casing to 1/4" to make room for the elastic. 

Step 31 - Press the casing away from the sleeve and over the seam allowances.

Understitch the entire sleeve casing. 

Step 32 - Press the casing to the wrong side of the sleeve. 

Stitch along the inside folded casing edge from one end to the other so you have a 1/2" wide channel, backstitching at both ends. 

Step 33 - Cut the shoulder elastic to the recommended length. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Insert it through the channel, being careful not to twist it, and gathering the sleeve cap evenly.

Pin each elastic end so it is hidden by the edge of the casing (about 1/4" in from the folded edge).

Stitch through all layers multiple times to secure the elastic ends. 

TIP: You may want to pin the elastic for not and adjust the length once you try on the dress.

Step 34 - With the dress inside out, fold up the lower edge of the sleeve by 1/4".

And then fold it up and press again by 1/2". Pin.

Stitch along the inside folded edge, leaving a 1" opening. 

Step 35 - Cut the wrist elastic to the recommended length (It's always a good idea to cut it long and adjust after trying it on. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Insert it through the sleeve hem, making sure it does not twist as you pull it through.

Overlap the ends of the elastic by about 1/2" Stitch to secure.

Sew up the opening in the elastic channel. 

Repeat steps 27-35 for the other sleeve. 

We are done for today. Come back tomorrow for the final day of the Lora sewalong where we sew on our buttons and hem our dress.