Welcome back to the fifth day of the Darla sewalong. Today we will only be focusing on the tie back views, so if you are sewing up one of the zip back views, skip ahead two days to step 65.
This first step is only for the tie back dress view. For the jumpsuit, skip to the next step (42)
Step 41 - With right sides touching, pin the center back seams of the skirt together, matching notches. Stitch. Finish seam allowances in your preferred method and press open or toward one side.
Step 42 - With wrong sides touching, fold the Back Elastic Casing in half and press.
Open it back up and press in the unnotched long edge, wrong sides touching, at 3/8”.
Step 43 - With right sides touching, pin the notched long edge of the Casing to the top of the back Skirt / Pant, matching notches and center back.
Stitch.
Note that the ends of the Casing will line up with the side seam allowances and not the Pocket seam line.
Step 44 - Trim the Casing seam allowance in half to reduce bulk.
Press the Casing and seam allowances up and away from the back Skirt / Pant.
Step 45 - With wrong sides touching, fold the Casing up along the original fold line so that the 3⁄8” folded edge covers the seam line. Pin.
Step 46 - With the right side of the garment facing up, sew through all layers by stitching in the ditch of the seam line where the Casing meets the back, catching the folded edge of the Casing underneath.
Step 47 - Cut the elastic to the recommended length on page 2 of the instructions. Attach a safety pin securely to one end of the elastic. Insert it through one end of the Casing and pull the safety pin through the other end being careful not to twist the elastic in the process. Pull elastic taut and pin securely at both ends.
Step 48 - Sew two lines of gathering stitches along the upper edge of the Front Skirt / Pant - one at 3⁄8” and one at 5⁄8” from the raw edge. Start and end your gathering stitches just inside of the Pocket. Do not backstitch. Leave long thread tails to aid with gathering.
Step 49 - Pull up the gathering stitches along the upper edge of the Skirt / Pant.
With right sides touching, pin the Front Bodice to the top of the Front Skirt / Pant matching the center front notch to the center front notch on the Skirt or the center seam line of the Pant. The remaining notches should line up with the Bodice darts. The side edges of the Bodice should extend 3/8" past the Pocket seam line. Stitch and press.
Step 50 - Grade the seam allowances to reduce bulk and press the Front Bodice and seam allowances up and away from the Skirt / Pant. I also like to remove any visible basting stitches at this time.
Step 51 - Pin one raw end of each Tie to the notches on the top edge of the Front Bodice. Baste in place at 3/8" from then top raw edge.
