Welcome to the first day of the Casey Sewalong. You will notice that I am sewing up multiple versions of the Casey in multiple fabrics. This is so I can cover all of views and options of the pattern. You may notice me switching between different fabrics during the sewalong.
All seam allowances are 1/2” unless otherwise stated.
Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and dots from your pattern pieces to your fabric.
I usually just make a small clip in my fabric for the notches. The clip should be no more than 1/4" so you don't risk clipping into the stitchline.
For the dots, I use a pin and a washable marker, but use whatever marking device you prefer. Note that some dots are for all views, some for the shorts views only, and some are for the optional pockets only.
ALL VIEWS
Step 1 - With right sides touching, pin the Front to the Back at the inner leg seam.
Sew the inner leg seam.
Finish the seam using your preferred method, and press open or towards one side.
TIP: If serging or zigzag stitching the seam allowances together, press the seam allowances of one leg towards the Front and one towards the Back to reduce bulk at the crotch seam.
Step 2 - Press each center front stitch line from the center front notch down to the second dot. Open back up. This pressed line will be used as a reference in later steps.
OPTIONAL POCKETS
If you are not adding Pockets, skip ahead to step 7 (shorts views) or step 9 which is tomorrows post (pant views).
Step 3 - Without trimming, finish the outside and bottom curved edges of all four Pocket pieces by either serging or zigzag stitching.
Step 4 - With right sides touching, pin each Pocket to a coordinating front or back side seam, matching notches.
Stitch each Pocket to the side seam from top to bottom at a 3⁄8” seam allowance. This smaller seam allowance is intentional as it keeps the pocket tucked to the inside of the garment.
Step 5 - Without trimming, finish the entire side seam of each front or back, including the Pocket edge.
Press the Pockets away from the garment and over the seam allowances.
Step 6 - Understitch each Pocket along the seam by stitching 1/8” inside the Pocket, catching all of the seam allowances underneath.
SHORTS VIEWS ONLY
If you are sewing the Pants views, you are done for today. Skip ahead to Step 9 which begins tomorrow.
Step 7 - Press the bottom edge of each leg up by 1⁄4” towards the wrong side and then again by 1” (folded up to the dot). Pin.
Step 8 - Stitch the hem just inside the folded edge.
That is it for today. Come back tomorrow and we will tackle the faux fly.