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Riley Sewalong Day 4





Welcome back to the fourth day of the Riley sewalong. Today we are mostly working on the front pockets.

Step 20 - Grab your Coin Pocket piece (there is just one). Fold the long straight side edge of your Coin Pocket in by 1/2” (wrong sides touching) and press.

Press the top edge down by 1/4” (wrong sides touching) and again by 3/8”. To secure the top hem of the pocket, stitch close to the lower folded edge, backstitching at the ends. If you are using topstitching thread do this from the right side of the coin pocket, otherwise you may find it easier to sew it from the wrong side.

 

Step 21 - Line up the raw curved edge of the Coin Pocket with the right (when wearing) Front Pocket Barrier so that the wrong side of the Coin Pocket touches the right side of the Pocket Barrier and notches align. Pin.

 

Step 22 - To secure, topstitch the outside folded side edge of the Coin Pocket 1/16” in from the folded edge, and again, 1/4” in from first line of stitching.

 

Step 23 - Without trimming, finish the curved edge of both Front Pocket Barriers by either serging or zigzag stitching. Catch the edge of the Coin Pocket in the stitching of the right Pocket Barrier as you sew. Do the same to the long curved edge of each Pocket Facing.

 

Step 24 - Place the Pocket Barriers and Pocket Facings on top of their coordinating Pocket Linings so that the outside raw edges line up and the wrong sides of the Barriers/Facings touch the right side of the Pocket Linings. Stitch 1/16” inside the curved inside edges (the edges that you just finished) to secure.

Baste the side and top edges of the Pocket through all layers, 3/8” from the raw edge to keep everything in place before it's connected to other pattern pieces.

 Step 25 - Fold the Pocket in half, right sides touching. Match up the bottom curved edges and use the top and bottom notches to find the fold line.

Press. Open back up. The fold you just made will serve as a guideline.

 

Step 26 - With right sides touching, pin the curved opening of the Pocket to the curved opening of the Front.

Stitch.

Notch and trim seam allowances to reduce bulk and to help it curve smoothly along the pocket opening.

 

Step 27 - Press Pocket and seam allowances away from Front. Understitch by stitching just inside the Pocket Facing, catching the seam allowances underneath as you sew.

 Step 28 - Press the Pocket to the inside. Topstitch 1/4” from the curved Pocket edge.

 

Step 29 - Fold the Pocket back up along the center fold line. Pin the bottom edges together.

Being careful to keep it away from the Front, stitch the bottom edges of the Pocket. Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.

 

Step 30 - Baste the top and sides of the Pocket to the Front to keep everything in place during the next steps.

 

Step 31 - Without trimming, finish the long curved raw edge of each Front Hip Facing by either serging or zigzag stitching.

 Step 32 - Pin one Facing to it’s coordinating Front side, matching notches, with right sides touching. Stitch along the outside edge.

Step 33 - Without trimming, finish the entire outside edge of the Front, catching the Front Hip Facing seam allowance as you go.

 

Step 34 - Press the Front Hip Facing away from the Front and over the seam allowances.

Understitch by stitching just inside the Front Hip Facing, catching the seam allowances in your stitching as you go.

Repeat steps 32 - 34 for other Front Hip Facing/Front.

That is it for today.