Welcome back to the third day of the Quinn sewalong. Now that we have assembled the front and the back, we are going to spend today sewing the two together.
One thing to note here is that as you do the following steps for the shoulder and sides seams, it's a great time to do some initial fitting. It's always a good idea to baste these areas first and then go back and stitch and finish seam allowances once you have done and initial fitting.
Step 16 - Go ahead and grab both your assembled front and back. With the Front Facing extended and right sides touching, match the front and back at the shoulder seams. Pin.
The seamline of the Front and Front Facing should line up with the back neck edge.
Pull the Front Facing around the back neckline to the inside of the garment so the back is sandwiched in the middle and all raw shoulder seams are lined up. Pin.
Step 17 - Stitch the shoulder seams through all layers.
Finish seam allowances using your preferred method.
You may want to clip the inside corner to reduce bulk at the neckline.
Pull the back away from the front, which will push the shoulder seam allowances towards the front.
Press.
Step 18 - Line up the front and back side seams, right sides touching. Pin.
Stitch.
Clip and notch the curved areas as needed. Finish seam allowances using your preferred method, and press open or towards the back.
One more reminder that if you are going to adjust the side seams or shoulder seam, now you is chance. It will be much harder after attaching the armhole binding in the following steps.
Step 19 - Fold in the left edge of each arm binding piece by 1⁄2”, wrong sides touching, as shown below.
Step 20 - With the garment right side out, lay the folded end of one Armhole Binding so it just covers the side seam. Pin.
Stitch the binding around the armhole at a normal 1/2” seam allowance, slightly putting tension on the Binding (but not the armhole) as you sew. Note that the armhole binding is intentionally longer than needed.
Overlap the unfolded end of the Binding by about 1⁄2” past the folded edge and backstitch.
Trim off any excess Armhole Binding if needed.
Step 21 - Trim the seam allowance in half and grade as needed to reduce bulk.
Press the Binding away from the armhole and over the seam allowance.
Understitch by sewing just inside the Binding, catching the seam allowance underneath. Repeat steps 20 and 21 for the other armhole.
Step 22 - Press each Armhole Binding to the inside of the garment, making sure it is not visible on the outside of the garment. Pin.
Stitch along the inside folded Binding edge.
Press and steam the armholes.
That is it for today. Tomorrow we will come back and work on the hem of the vest or dress.
