Welcome to day 1 of the Dani Sewalong. Today we will be tackling steps 1-10 which include inseam and rear pockets. These steps apply to all views of the Dani.
Before starting, make sure you have transferred all notches, dots, and topstitching guides from your pattern pieces to your fabric.
Fuse the rear pocket interfacing to the wrong side of each rear pocket, 1/4" down from the top and just above the notches.
With wrong sides touching, fold the upper edge of each rear pocket down by 1/4" and press.
With right sides touching, fold back the upper edge of the pockets at the notches. Pin.
Stitch the side edges of each pocket from the upper folded edge to the lower fold at 1/2" seam allowance. Clip corners.
Turn the upper corners of each rear pocket right side out. Press carefully to create nice, sharp right angles. Press in the bottom and two outside edges by 1/2" (wrong sides touching).
To secure the fold, stitch close to the lower pressed edge of each rear pocket, backstitching at the ends.
With right sides facing up, pin each rear pocket to the back short/pant, matching the upper corners of each pocket to the placement dot markings. Carefully pin in place.
To secure the pockets, stitch close to the folded edge of the bottom and side edges. At the bottom two corners, leave your needle down, pivot and continue sewing. Reinforce upper ends by backstitching securely.
That is all for the rear pockets. Next up the inseam pockets.
Fold the inside long edge (the edge without notches) of each of the two inseam pocket facings towards the wrong side by 1/4".
Pin the facings on top of one pair of inseam pockets along the notched outside edge. The wrong side of the facing should be touching the right side of the pocket.
Edgestitch along the facing folds, through all layers, as shown below.
Finish the outside curved edge of each of the four inseam pockets in your desired manner. I am using my serger.
Pin the two inseam pockets with the attached facings, right sides touching, to the backs, matching side seam notches.
Stitch using a 3/8" seam allowance. (Attaching the pockets with a smaller seam allowance allows them to tuck inside of the side seams and remain invisible.
Finish the seam allowances of the entire side edge of each back in your desired manner, making sure to secure the pocket seam allowances in the finishing.
Press pockets away from each back, over the seam allowances.
Understitch each pocket by stitching close to the pocket seam through all layers, securing seam allowances underneath.
You can put your back pieces away for now. Grab your fronts and inseam pocket interfacings.
Fuse the inseam pocket interfacings to the wrong side of each front side seam, matching notches.
Attach the remaining two inseam pockets to the fronts by repeating the previous four steps.
This includes pinning the pockets right sides touching to the fronts.
Stitch at 3/8" seam allowance.
Finish the side seams in your desired manner. I am serging mine.
Press pockets and seam allowances away from front. Understitch next to the fold.
That is all for today. Come back tomorrow for day two of the Dani Sewalong.