Today during the Casey Sewalong we are going to tackle the side seams. This includes pockets if you are adding them and the side slit for the shorts views. This means there will be some jumping around depending on which view and option you are sewing.
OPTIONAL POCKETS
(If you are not adding Pockets, skip ahead to step 19.)
Step 15 - With right sides touching, line up the side seams with the Pockets extended. Be extra careful that the hems and dots line up on the Front and Back. Pin the side seams and Pocket edges.
Step 16 - Using a normal 1⁄2” seam allowance, stitch from the top edge down to the first dot and backstitch. Start again at the second dot, backstitch, and stitch downward. For the shorts views, end at the third dot (located at the top of the hem) and back stitch. For the pants views, stitch down to the bottom of the leg and backstitch.
Note that this stitching is just inside the 3⁄8” seam where you attached the Pocket.
Stitch the outside and bottom curved edge of the Pockets, ending at the side seam stitching and backstitching. You don't need to stitch the top edge of the pockets as that will be stitched into the waistband seam.
Here is what the shorts views look like at this point.
Here is the pants view.
SHORTS VIEWS ONLY / WITH POCKET OPTION
(For pants views, skip ahead to step 18.)
Step 17 - Press seam allowances open below the bottom dot and for about 1” above, close to the bottom of the Pocket.
Fold in the edges of the hem by 1⁄4”. Pin. (Or even better use a glue stick like me.)
Topstitch the side edges and just below the dot to secure the side slit.
Tip : If your machine is having a hard time sewing this small section of fabric, put a piece of tissue paper under the fabric while sewing. This will give the machine something to grab on to and make accurate stitching easier. The paper will easily just tear off afterwards.
SHORTS AND PANTS VIEWS / WITH POCKETS
Step 18 - Press each Pocket and the rest of the seam allowances towards the front (All seam allowances for the pant views will be pressed towards the front).
Pin the Pockets so they lay flat against the front.
Just inside the front of the shorts or pants, make a small bar tack just above and below each Pocket opening.
NO POCKETS
If you added Pockets to your shorts or pants, you are done for today. Start tomorrow at step 22.
Step 19 - Finish the side edges of both the Front and Back separately using your preferred method. I am serging them. Make sure you are not trimming the side seams in this step - just finishing them.
Note that for the shorts views, the hem is already finished, but for the pants views it is not at this point.
Step 20 - With right sides touching, match the front to back along the side edges. Pin. For shorts views, stitch from the upper edge down to the hem dot and backstitch. For pant views, stitch the side edges from top to bottom and backstitch.
Press seam allowances open.
SHORTS VIEWS / NO POCKETS
For pants views / no Pockets, you are done for today. Skip ahead to step 22 tomorrow.
Step 21 - Fold in the edges of the hem by 1⁄4”. Pin. (Or do like I do and use a glue stick).
Topstitch the side edges and just below the dot to secure the side slit.
Tip : If your machine is having a hard time sewing this small section of fabric, put a piece of tissue paper under the fabric while sewing. This will give the machine something to grab on to and make accurate stitching easier. The paper will easily just tear off afterwards.
That is all for today. The last day of the Casey sewalong is tomorrow where we will do all the finishing touches.