With all of the off the shoulder love everywhere in ready to wear right now, I realized that the
Roscoe Blouse and Dress is the perfect pattern the easily hack for this look. With just a few changes you get an easy to wear boho / beachy dress or blouse and it takes just a couple of hours to sew up.
Can I just say how much I love this new trend? It's pretty friendly to those of us who want to hide some problem areas like the tummy or hips. And yet it's still super sexy and natural. I'm a big fan. So much easier to pull off than the crop top trend of the last couple of years. I really think that almost anyone can pull this look off.
Materials:
-
Roscoe pattern pieces 1, 2, and 3
- 1 " elastic
- fabric (I'm using rayon challis)
- matching thread
- safety pin
First you will need to print off pattern pieces front, back and sleeve (you won't need any of the the others unless you want to add a ruffle or bind up the bottom of the armhole). I printed off the dress length, but you can also trim at the line for blouse length if that is what you are making.
Next, take your front piece and make a mark about 4 inches down at Center Front. Go lower or higher depending on your preferences, but remember that there will be a 1 " elastic casing above this marking.
Make another marking about 1" above this one, but on the armhole. Make the marking perpindicular to the armhole curve.
Connect this marking to the CF marking, curving naturally between the two. This will be your cutting line for the front of your dress or blouse.
Put your sleeve pattern piece on top of your dress front pattern piece, lining up the armhole notches. Transfer the point where your cutting line on the front piece hits the armhole, to your sleeve pattern piece at the same point.
Draw the line out, perpindicular to the armhole, for about an inch. Curve the line naturally until you can go straight across (perpindicular to the grainline) until you are close to the back armhole of the sleeve and then curve up a bit so it is perpindicular to the back armhole curve. It should look something like this. It will be the cutting line for your sleeves.
Put the sleeve pattern piece on top of your back dress pattern piece. Line the back armhole of the sleeve up with the back armhole of the back dress (matching notches) and transfer the marking of the line you just made to the armhole of the back dress.
Draw the cutting line of the back dress to CB like you did the others. (Draw out for about an inch perpindicular to the armhole and then straight across to Center Back.)
Now, cut all of the tops off of your pattern pieces along the cutting lines you just drew.
Draw a stitching line 1/2" below the cutting line on all pieces.
Measure all stitching lines and add them up. Multiply this number by 2 and then subtract 3" for seam allowances. (Mine was about 58".)
Take this number and cut a piece of fabric that is that width and 3 1/4" tall.
Cut out your dress front, dress back, and sleeves as well.
Sew your dress up much like the regular roscoe by first sewing each sleeve armhole to the matching front or back armhole. Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.
Now sew up sides of the sleeves and dress (or blouse) starting at each sleeve end and ending at the bottom of the dress or blouse. Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.
Sew the two small ends of your long skinny pieces together, right sides touching. So it makes a long loop.
Press the loop in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together.
Pin the raw edges of your loop to top of your dress, right sides touching. Stitch at 1/2" seam allowance. Leave a 2 inch section unstitched at center back (to insert the elastic).
Wrap your elastic around your shoulders to get an idea of how long your want it. Add some extra length and cut. Using a safety pin, insert the elastic into the loop and all around so that it enters and exits at the opening at CB. Pin the ends together and try on. Adjust the length of the elastic until it's snug enough to stay up, but still comfy. My experience is that you want it on the looser side. Your arms and chest will keep it up. If it's tight it will inch up all day which can be annoying.
Sew the two ends together of your elastic, insert it back into the casing, and stitch the opening at CB closed. Finish the seam allowances of your elastic casing in your desired manner.
Check the length of your dress or blouse and also the length of your sleeves. I ended up cutting a few inches off of the length of the sleeves to hit at my elbow for a different look. Trim as necessary and finish in your favorite way. I am going to simply serge the edges and fold it up at 1" and then stitch.
You may want to Stitch through all layers of the elastic and elastic casing at CB and maybe a couple of other places to keep the elastic from flipping around with wear.
Give the whole thing a final press and you are done!
Let me know if you guys have any questions. I can't wait to wear this out and about.
