Welcome back for day two of the Merritt sewalong. I think today is technically the most advanced day, but nothing you can't handle by going slow.
Step 9 - Create the back pleat by pulling the center pleat lines towards the second set of lines.
Pin, press, and baste the top edge at ⅜”.
Step 10 - With right sides touching, pin the bottom of the main Yoke (just choose one of your Yokes to be the main Yoke and one to be the Yoke facing. It's up to you which one your want visible) to the top edge of the Back, matching notches and edges.
Stitch.
Step 11 - Flip the Back over and pin the Yoke facing to the top edge of the Back. The right side of the facing will touch the wrong side of the Back. Stitchthrough all layers on top of the previous stitchline.
Step 12 - Grade the seam allowances as needed. I like to cut the Back seam allowance to 3/8" and the Yoke facing seam allowance to 1/4", but it really depends on how bulky your fabric is.
Press the Yokes up and away from the Back.
Step 13 - Letting the Yoke facing fall loose, pin each Front to its coordinating main Yoke at the shoulder. Stitch.
Step 14 - Keeping the Yoke facing loose, roll the bottom of the Front and Back up tightly until it reaches the Yoke.
Step 15 - Pull the Yoke facing around the rolled up Front and Back, and line up all shoulder seams. Pin. The right side of the Yoke facing will be touching the wrong side of the Fronts.
Stitch through all layers on top of the previous stitchline. I find it easies to do this with the main Yoke facing up so I can be sure to stitch right on top of the previous stitching.
Grade the seam allowances as needed.
Step 16 - Gently pull the rolled up Front and Back out of the neckline.
Press the shoulder seams.
Step 17 - Topstitch ¼” into the Yoke through all layers at the bottom of the Yoke and at the shoulder seams.
Step 18 - With right sides touching, pin the unnotched edges of the main Collar (the one with the interfacing) and the Collar facing together.
Stitch, pivoting at the corners.
Step 19 - Trim the seam allowances and corners.
Turn it right side out. Press.
Topstitch the Collar ¼” away from finished edges, pivoting at the corners.
Step 20 - Pin the notched edge of the Collar to the Collar Stand facing (the one without interfacing), matching notches. The right side of the Collar Facing should be touching the right side of the Collar Stand facing. The sides of the Collar should end at the dots on the Collar Stand facing. Baste.
Step 21 - Take your main Collar Stand and fold up the bottom edge by ½”, wrong sides touching, and press. (I find it easiest to run a quick stitchline at a scant 1/2" seam allowance to give me a guide when pressing.)
Line up the top edge of the Collar Stand with the top edge of the Collar Stand facing, with the Collar sandwiched in the middle. Match the notches, edges, and dots. Pin.
Stitch around the curved and notched edges of the Collar stand, attaching the Collar in the same line of stitching.
Trim the seam allowances, especially around the curved edges.
Step 22 - Turn your Collar Stand right side out and press.
Keeping the main Collar Stand free, pin the seam allowance of the Collar Stand facing to the shirt neckline, matching notches. The right side of the Collar Stand facing should be touching the right side of the shirt. Be extra careful to line up the edges of the Collar Stand with the finished front edges of the shirt.
Stitch. (Keep in mind that you are attaching a curved neckline to a relatively straight Collar Stand. As a result it may feel like the Collar Stand is a bit too big at the raw edges when pinning. The stitchline, however ,is the same length on both, so it should match up once stitching.) Trim seam allowances as needed.
Step 23 - Press the Collar and Collar Stand up and away from the shirt and tuck the seam allowances up and into the Collar Stand. Very carefully pin and press the folded edge of the main Collar Stand so that it barely covers the seam. I find it easier to use a glue stick for this step, but pins work great too.
Step 24 - Edgestitch around the main Collar Stand very close to the seamline and folded edge. I do this with the inside of the shirt facing up when stitching as I usually wear my shirts open at the top so this is the most visible area of the collar stand. If you usually button your shirts to the top, you may want to stitch from the other side.
In my opinion, this is the hardest part of the entire shirt. I usually have to unpick a part or two and restitch to get it looking even. So don't be frustrated if you have to do this as well.
Ok, that is all for today. Come back tomorrow to tackle sleeves and side seams.