Welcome back for the second day of the Lora Sewalong. Today we are going to be diving into the bodice. Keep in mind that I will be sewing up the bodice for View A (spaghetti strap view), which looks a bit different than the bodice for the sleeve views. That being said, the steps are the same for all views during today's sewalong.
Step 5 - Sew two lines of gathering stitches (around 4.0-5.0mm long) along the underbust - one at 3/8" and one at 5/8" from the raw edge (this places them on either side of the 1/2" seam allowance) - stitching between the gathering notches on the front bodice. Do not backstitch. Leave long thread tails to aid with gathering.
Step 6 - With the right sides touching, pin the main left and right bodice to the main back along the side seams, matching all notches. Stitch.
Press the seam allowances open.
To prepare the bodice lining, repeat steps 5-6 for the bodice front and back lining.
Step 7 - With the right sides touching, pin the assembled skirt to the bottom of the main bodice.
Pull up the gathering stitches at the underbust, matching the notches to fit between the notches on the skirt. Match the back bodice notches to the back darts. Pin.
Distribute the gathers evenly and press to set them.
Stitch.
Press all of the seam allowances up towards the bodice. If your fabric is bulky, you may want to grad this seam by trimming the main bodice seam allowance to 3/8" and the skirt seam allowance to 1/4". Remove any visible basting stitches.
Step 8 - Gather the bodice lining using the underbust basting stitches to match the main bodice. You can simply lay the lining on top of the main bodice to compare the widths or measure the gathering on the main bodice and adjust the lining bodice to match. Press to set the gathering stitches.
Step 9 - Prepare the front facings by turning under the unnotched inside edge by 1/4", wrong sides touching. Stitch close to the folded edge to secure.
Step 10 - Pin the top of each front facing to the bottom of the coordinating bodice lining at the center front.
Stitch at 1/2". Continue stitching at 1/2" along the entire bottom edge of the lining. This will lock in the gathering at the underbust and also create a foldline for the lining.
Press the seam allowances of the facings and all of the lining up by 1/2" toward the wrong side. You will be pressing the edge up along the stitch line you just made.
Set the lining with the attached facings aside for now.
Step 11 - Prepare the button shield by folding it in half lengthwise, right sides touching. Stitch the upper and lower short ends using a 1/2" seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowances to reduce bulk and turn right side out. Press.
Step 12 - Fold each button loop piece in half lengthwise, right sides touching. Sew the button loops using a normal 1/2" seam allowance, which means you are stitching about 3/16" from the folded edge.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/16".
TIP: If you don't have a loop turner, you can use a doubled up thread and a handsewing needle. Knot the end to one edge of the tube and snake the needle (eye end first) through the tube to pull it right side out.
Turn the tubes right side out. Find more help for turning this tube in our How to Turn a Skinny Tube post here.
Step 13 - Cut the button loops into twelve 2" long sections.
Discard any extra. Fold each loop into a small "U" shape. Use your iron with steam to set the shape.
Lay your main dress down with the right side facing up. On the right-hand side (when wearing) pin the folded button loops to the edge of the center front as illustrated. The first loop should be placed just below the dot on the center front bodice. Each remaining loop should be placed 2" apart.
Baste in place using a 1/2" seam allowance. Or, use a glue stick like me to attach the buttonloops.
Step 14 - With the right sides touching, pin the button shield to the front left edge of the dress, matching all notches. Place the button shield just below the dot on the bodice.
Baste in place using a 1/2" seam allowance.
That is it for today. Tomorrow we will continue the sewalong with the spaghetti strap views of the Lora dress. If you are sewing up a sleeved view, you can skip tomorrow and return on day 4 of the sewalong.