Welcome to the Darla Sewalong. We are excited to walk you through every step to help you get the best possible results from this pattern.
Please keep in mind that unless otherwise stated, the seam allowance is 1/2”.
I will be sewing up 3 versions of the pattern so I can include photos of each step / view of the pattern so you will see me jump between different fabrics throughout the sewalong.
We are not going over assembling your pattern or cutting out your fabric, so we will jump right in with sewing the Darla.
One other thing of note, if your fabric is lightweight or a loose weave, we do recommend lining your bodice with a more stable fabric such as cotton lawn. You will notice that some of the versions I am sewing include a self lining while others I have chosen to line with a black cotton lawn.
ALL VIEWS
Step 1 - Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all dots, notches, and dart markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric.
For the dot markings, I like to us a washable crayola marker. I also use this to draw in the stitching lines for the darts.
For notches, I just make a small clip with my scissors that is about 1/4" long.
Step 2 - To prevent stretching, staystitch the top edge of the main Front Bodice (all Views) and main Back Bodice pieces (Views A and C only), 3/8” from the top edge.
Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the Front Bodice Lining, Pockets, and the Back Lining pieces (Views A and C only).
Tip: If your fabric is very lightweight or has a loose weave, I recommend also applying fusible to each of your Straps.
Views A & C only.
Step 3 - Sew darts on the Front Bodice by folding the dart markings with right sides touching, and aligning the dart legs as marked. Ensure the dart point is on the fold. Pin to secure.
Stitch along the dart leg to the point, reducing the stitch length to 1.0mm within 1/2” of the point.
Do not backstitch, but rather leave long thread tails. Tie thread tails in a secure knot and trim.
Press the dart excess towards center front or down towards the lower edge of the Bodice.
Repeat for the Front Bodice Lining.
Step 4 - Prepare Straps / Ties by folding each piece in half lengthwise, right sides touching. Sew 3/8” from the folded edge.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/8”.
Turn the Straps / Ties right side out using a loop turner or safety pin and press flat.
VIEWS A & C (ZIPPER BACK) ONLY
FOR VIEWS B & D, SKIP TO STEP 7
Step 5 - With right sides touching, pin the main Front Bodice to the main Side Back Bodice pieces at side seams, matching notches to dart legs. Stitch.
Step 6 - With right sides touching, pin the main Center Back Bodice pieces to the Side Back Bodice pieces, matching notches. Stitch.
Press seam allowances open.
Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the Bodice Lining pieces.
VIEWS B & D (TIE BACK) ONLY FOR VIEWS A & C, SKIP TO TOMORROW
Step 7 - With right sides touching, pin the main Back Bodice pieces and Back Bodice Lining pieces together.
Sew along the outside edges, leaving the notched side seam edge open, as pictured.
Trim corners and notch the curved upper edge.
Turn right side out and press.
Step 8 - Turn the center back finished edge towards the wrong side by 1/2”. Press.
Stitch close to the inner folded edge to create the Tie channel.
That is it for today. Come back tomorrow and we will continue with the pockets.