Welcome to day one of the Aster Sewalong. I will be sewing up two versions of the Aster. I am using a plaid linen for View A (crop top) which I will be adding a full lining to in a pink cotton lawn. I will also be sewing up View B (dress) unlined in a pine green linen. Most of the sewalong will show View A, but the steps apply to both Views, unless stated.
Step 1 - Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all dots, notches and markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric.
There are lots of ways to transfer your markings. I like to use a washable crayola marker to mark my darts.
For notches and the ends of my dart legs I just make a small snip. Keep in mind that the seam allowance for this pattern is 1/2", so make sure your snips are shorter than that.
If you are sewing a lining into your Aster, be sure to mark the darts on your lining as well.
For the dress View (B) you will also need to mark some extra dots and notches for your pockets on your pocket pieces and your dress.
Also on the dress view, mark the contour dart on the back dress pieces.
Now to add your fusible interfacing.
Fuse the Button Band interfacing to the wrong side of the Back pieces. They should be placed 1/4" in from the center back edge, 1/2" down from the upper edge and 1/2" up from the bottom angled edge.
Fuse the Corner Interfacing pieces to the wrong side of all eight corners of the Front and Back Facing pieces.
If your fabric has a looser weave or is lighter weight, you may want to consider fusing your entire facing pieces instead of just the corners.
Step 2 - Dress View Only: Apply fusible interfacing to the edge of the wrong side of all four pocket pieces.
Step 3 - Now that the pattern pieces are all prepped, lets sew some darts. Sew darts on the Front by folding the dart markings with right sides together, and aligning the dart legs as marked. Ensure the dart point (apex) is on the fold. Because a French dart is on an angle, I find that I need to be a bit more precise with pinning and lining up my dart prior to sewing for accuracy. Pin generously to secure.
Stitch along the dart leg to the point, reducing the stitch length to 1.0 mm within 1/2" of the point. Do not backstitch, but leave long thread tails.
Tie thread tails in a secure knot and trim. Press darts down toward lower edge of Front piece.
If fully lining your garment, sew darts on the front lining piece in the same manner as the main front.
Step 4 - Sew the contour dart on each Back piece by folding the dart markings with the right sides touching and aligning the dart legs as marked. Pin to secure.
Stitch along the dart legs. Begin at the center of the dart, backstitching, and continuing to stitch toward one of the points, reducing the stitch length to 1.0 mm within 1/2” at the end. Do not backstitch, but leave long thread tails. Tie the thread tails in a secure knot and trim.
Starting back at the center of the dart, stitch to the opposite point, finishing this end of the dart in the same way as the first.
Press dart toward center back.
That is all for today. Come back tomorrow and we will sew the neckline.