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Aster Sewalong Day 3 - Steps 11 - 17





Welcome back to the third day of the Aster Sewalong.

This first step is only for View A (crop top). If you are sewing up the dress view of the Aster, skip ahead to step 12.

Step 11 - With the Facing pulled up and away from the main garment, pin the side seams of the Facings and the Front/Back together, right sides touching, aligning seam and matching the notch on the back to the dart on the Front.

I recommend basting the side seams at this point.This is a great time to try on your top and make any necessary adjustments to the side seams. You can line up the back at the center back markings located on the pattern pieces to indicate where the buttons / buttonholes will overlap.

Once you are happy with the fit, stitch.

If you are leaving the top unlined, finish the seam allowances in your preferred method.

I'm lining this one so I am not finishing the seam allowances.

Press seam allowances open or toward the back.

The rest of today we are going to be working on the dress view (view B) only.

Step 12 - If you are leaving your dress unlined (like I am), finish the seam allowance along the curved edge of each pocket piece. If you are lining your dress the pockets will be hidden between the lining and the main dress so it's not necessary.

Step 13 - If you want to baste your side seams to check fit, do so now before adding the Pockets. You won't be able to adjust the side seams once the Pockets are attached. Avoid over fitting the hip area of the dress. Being a shift dress it should have ease in the hip area to sit. Also the pockets will gape if the hip is tight.

With right sides touching, pin one pocket piece to each corresponding side seam on the Front and the Back, matching notches and dots.

Stitch at 3/8" seam allowance. We sew this seam at a smaller seam allowance than the side seams so that the pockets stay tucked inside of the dress and are less visible.

Step 14 - If you are leaving your dress unlined, finish the side seams of each front and back piece separately, being sure to catch the pocket edge at the same time. Make sure that you are keeping your facing pressed up and finishing that seam allowance as well.

Once again, this not necessary if you are adding a lining.

Step 15 - Press each pocket away from the Front/Back and over the seam allowances.

Understitch each of the four pockets to seam allowances.

Step 16 - With right sides touching, pin the Front to the Back, matching raw edges and dots while keeping pocket extended. The top notch on the Back will line up with the dart on the Front.

Starting at the edge of the facing, stitch down to the first dot. Leaving the needle down, pivot to stitch around the pocket until the second dot, then pivot to stitch down to the bottom edge of the dress. 

Step 17 - Press the side seam allowances and pockets towards the dress front. Pin pockets towards front so they lay flat.

To secure pockets to the front skirt, stitch back and forth just above and below the dots for 3/8" in a straight line. It's pretty hard to see in the photo, sorry. But it's just a small line of stitching that helps anchor the pocket forward.

That is it for today. Come back tomorrow and we will finish up our Aster.