SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 3 – NECK FACING / SIDE SEAMS / CROTCH

June 6, 2018

By the end of today you will have one jumpsuit sewn together. The next two days are just finishing touches. The facing can get a little fiddly, but if you go slow and be patient, I promise you can do it.

 

Step 17 – With right sides touching, pin the assembled neck facing to the neck edge of the jumpsuit, aligning inner raw edges and matching shoulder seams. Starting at one dot, stitch around the entire neckline, pivoting at corners, and finishing at the other dot. Backstitch at both ends to secure.

Here is a close up of the dot where you stop. Make sure that you backstitch sell here.

Be sure that at each corner, leave your needle down, pivot, and keep stitching to create a sharp angle.

 

Step 18 – Clip seam allowance at an angle, close to but not through the seam allowances at the dot. Repeat for other side.

 

Step 19 – Clip and angles so that they can turn sharply.

Grade the neck facing seam allowance so that it creates less bulk.

Clip the curved edges around the neck to help it create a smooth finish once turned and pressed.

 

Step 20 – To help the facing stay tucked neatly to the inside of the garment, press the seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch where possible by stitching through the facing and seam allowance about 1/8″ into the facing. You won’t be able to stitch into all of the angles. I start about 2” above the bottom angle and understitch to about 2” below the top angle. Start again about 2” above the top angle, stitch around the front and back curved necklines and continue down the other side in the same manner.

 

Step 21 – Turn the facing to the inside, making sure that the lower ends are sharply turned out at the clip.

Tuck the seam allowance along the bottom end up into the facing, as shown in the picture. Press.

before

after

 

Step 22 – Hand tack or stitch in the ditch through all layers along the center back and shoulder seams to secure the facing and prevent it from rolling to the outside when worn.

 

Step 23 – With right sides touching, pin the fronts together along the crotch from the inner leg edge up to the dot. Double check that your jumpsuit is lined up correctly and not twisted before moving forward.

Starting at the bottom of the crotch, stitch, making sure to get close to, but not stitch through the facing and dot. Backstitch securely here as it is a stress point. Trim seam allowance to 1/4″ and finish in your desired manner. Press to one side.

 

Step 24 – With the fronts facing right side up, lap the right front over the left. Pin in place.

To secure, edgestitch through all layers from the folded edge to the dot, backstitching well at both ends.

 

Step 25 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the inner leg edges and the side seams, aligning raw edges and notches. Stitch the crotch in one continuous line of stitching from hem to hem. Trim to 1/4″ and finish seam allowances in your desired manner.

Stitch side seams from underarm down to hem. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. Press the seam allowances open or towards the back.

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