SEWING FOR KIDS TUTORIALS

EMERSON PANT HACK

June 13, 2017

As much as I love the Emerson pattern as shorts and crop pants, it works really great as a full length pant as well. And with just a few easy hacks it’s really simple to do. The best part of it is that when my daughter gets too tall for these I can just hem them into the original length of crop pants or shorts to get more wear out of them. The pants above are just a simple wide length pant, which my daughter loves. I used a zebra print crepe fabric that you can find here. It’s a fun print and the fact that the fabric has great drape really works well for the wide leg style.

And the pants above are more of a genie style by adding elastic to the ankle. I think they turned out really fun in this denim chambray, although I think next time I will try them in something softer for a more subtle affect.

You are going to need to cut your pant leg pattern pieces longer than the original crop pants. For my daughter I added about 8 inches which included the 1 inch for the elastic, 1/4″ for turn under, and 1/4″ for wiggle room. (So that’s 1 1/2″ for the elastic casing and 6 1/2″ for length.

For both styles, after sewing up the pattern as instruction except for the hem, you are going to turn your pants inside out. Press the bottom up by 1/4″

Now press the whole thing up by about 1 1/4″. If you are making the wide leg pant them just stitch along the fold now to finish the hem. If making the genie version, leave a 2 inch opening to insert the elastic.

If you are doing the genie pant, cut two pieces of elastic to the length desired (wrap it around your child’s ankle and add some for overlap and easy). Attach a safely pin to one end and insert the elastic through the opening.

Sew the two ends of the elastic together, stitch up the opening and you are done!

Your pants should look something like these. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

 

SEWING

DANIELLE DUNGAREES AND RUMI TANKS

May 23, 2017

I have been wanting a pair of black overalls for awhile now. When Republique du Chiffon released the Danielle Dungaree pattern I knew this was the perfect pair to make up for myself. Luckily for me, they had an english version available in a printed pattern. I had a hard time locating a copy in the US, so I ended up ordering one straight for Republique du Chiffon in France. It was honestly pretty affordable and only took a week or two to get to me which was much better than I had expected. In fact, I am obsessed with their new Gaston Trouser pattern and will be buying a pattern as soon as they have an english version available.

I particularly wanted this overall pattern because of a combination of the skinny leg, waistband, and unique bib shape. I felt that those details, combined with a black material help the overalls feel a bit more sophisticated and less juvenile.

I did make a few changes to the pattern. First of all I thinned out the leg below the thigh quite a bit to make it more skinny and then added a little cuff at the bottom. I also had to shorten the torso by quite a bit to make the bib and crotch hit me at the right place. I cut 3/4″ off of the bottom of the bib and then 1 1/2″ off of the top of the trouser section before attaching both to the waistband.

The fabric for the overalls is a cotton lycra from The Fabric Store in LA. I chose it because it isn’t too thick and doesn’t have a sheen to it. I like the natural texture to it. It has the slightest bit of stretch that really helps with fit and comfort. It really was the perfect fabric for this project. I had the hardest time finding buckles but ended up getting some vintage ones on etsy. I love that they are more of a brass instead of the silver ones I could find here.

Although I am still working on how to exactly style these, I decided to make up a few Rumi Tanks to pair them with. I am wearing the gray one in the photos, but you can also see the striped and camo green versions below. All three three lightweight jersey fabrics are also from The Fabric Store. They are the perfect weight for tops – soft and lightweight without being sheer. I love this pattern so much. Easy to sew and a great sporty shape. I want to make the dress version next.

I am pretty sure that you are going to be seeing a lot of these overalls during the rest of Me Made May. I love them so much. I want to make another pair but as shorts too.

 

SEWING

LODO SEWALONG DAY 5

April 28, 2017

Thank you everyone for following along with the Lodo Dress Sewalong. I am so excited with the way that my dresses turned out.

For View A – the longer, midcalf version, I used a black and white striped ponte knit that I picked up at some point in NYC. It’s a really nice ponte that sewed up great and I am so excited to wear it all summer long.

 

View B – the shorter version, is sewn up in a maroon cotton interlock that I bought at Colorado Fabrics a few weeks ago. It’s the perfect amount of stable knit but also soft and more casual like a thicker tshirt fabric.

 

If you guys participated in the sewalong I would love to see your versions of the Lodo Dress. Make sure you tag your photos with #lododress and @truebias so that I see them.

SEWING

LODO DRESS SEWALONG DAY 4

April 27, 2017

Congrats on making it this far in the Lodo dress sewalong because we are almost done. Today is our last day or sewing and tomorrow we just show off our finished dresses. Let’s get started!

 

Step 11 – Fold the outside (short) edges of each woven armhole facing in by 1/4″ (wrong sides touching) and press.

Fold the unnotched long edge of the armhole facing up by 1/4″ (wrong sides touching) and press.

If you are finishing your seam allowances of the side seams you need to do this at this time. It’s not necessary since knits do not fray, but to show you I serged the entire side seams (from one hem, up over the shoulder, to the other hem) on my maroon version.

 

Step 12 – With right sides touching and matching notches, pin the woven armhole facing to the edge of each side of the dress along the armhole. The fact that the facing is cut on the bias will allow it to curve along the edge of the dress.

 

Step 13 – Starting at one folded end of the facing, stitch (using a regular nonstretch stitch) along the raw edges until you reach the other folded end. Repeat for other armhole.

Trim the seam allowance of the woven facing to about 1/4″ to reduce bulk.

 

Step 14 – Press the armhole facing away from the dress and on top of the seam allowances.

 

Step 15 – With right sides touching, pin the front and aback together along the side seams from the hem to the underarm notch.

 

Step 16 – With the armhole facing still pressed outwards, use a stretch stitch to sew from the underarm notch to the hem, backstitching at both ends. Note that you will be stitching directly on top of previous stitching for about 3/4″ just below the underarm notch.

 

Step 17 – Press seam allowances open below the armhole notch. Continue to press the armhole facing towards the inside of the dress above the armhole notches so that wrong sides are touching. (Just like on the neckline.) Pin and press so that the armhole seam is rolled slightly towards the inside of the dress to make it less visible on the right side of the garment.

 

Step 18 – Using a nonstretch straight stitch, edgestitch around all sides of the armhole facing, pivoting at corners and stitching over the sideseam at the bottom of the armhole to connect. Backstitch to secure. Press.

If you want to finish the seam allowance of the bottom of your dress before hemming, you should do that now. I serged the bottom of my maroon version here.

 

Step 19 – Turn the bottom of the dress up by 1 inch. Pin and press.

Using a stretch stitch, topstitch at 7/8″ from the folded hem to secure.

 

Give your whole dress a nice press and wear it proudly! Tomorrow I will show you my dresses being worn.

 

 

SEWING TUTORIALS

LODO DRESS SEWALONG DAY 3

April 26, 2017

Welcome back for Day 3 of the Lodo Dress Sewalong. I am super excited to tackle the neckline today. You can put aside your woven arm facing pieces and just grab your woven neckline facings along with your knit dress.

For all of the steps in todays sewalong you will be using a regular, non stretch stitch on your sewing machine. And just a reminder that all seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise stated.

Step 5 – With right sides touching, sew the shoulder seams of the front and back woven neck facings together. Press the seams open. No need to finish these seam allowances as they will not be exposed.

 

Turn the outside edges of the facing towards the wrong side by about 1/4″ all around and press well. Steam helps a lot. One tip that I sometimes use is to run a line of stitching at 1/4″ around the outside edge of the facing first. Then press along the stitching line. It just makes it a bit easier to get a crisp and even edge.

 

Step 6 – With right sides touching, line up the necklines of the dress and facing and pin generously.

 

Step 7 – Starting at Center Back, stitch around the inside edge of the neckline.

When you get to center front, leave your needle down, puck up your presser foot, and rotate to finish stitching up the other side of the neckline to finish at center back.

It’s a good idea to shorten your stitch length for about an inch in either direction of the center front V. This will give that area extra strength and also help your be more precise in stitching your V. I usually lower the stitch length down to about 1.5.

 

Step 8 – Trim the seam allowance of the woven facing to about 1/4″ to reduce bulk in that area.

Snip close to, but not thru the seam allowances of the V at center front. This will help you achieve a crisp V.

Continue clipping around the remainder of the neckline to help it turn easily and have a smooth finish.

 

Step 9 – Pull the facing through the neckline and towards the wrong side of the dress. Pin and press so that the neckline seam is rolled slightly towards the inside of the dress to make it less visible on the right side of the garment. This is especially crucial if your facing does not match your knit fabric.

 

Step 10 – Starting at center back, edgestitch along the folded edge of the facing about 1/8″ away from the fold.

When you get to center front, leave your needle down, pick up your presser foot, and rotate to finish stitching up the other side of the neckline to finish at center back.

This stitching is where you really want to be careful an take your time. It is visible on the right side of your dress and will be distracting if it’s uneven.

 

Give it a press and you are done for today! Come back tomorrow and we will finish up the whole dress.