SEWING

DANIELLE DUNGAREES AND RUMI TANKS

May 23, 2017

I have been wanting a pair of black overalls for awhile now. When Republique du Chiffon released the Danielle Dungaree pattern I knew this was the perfect pair to make up for myself. Luckily for me, they had an english version available in a printed pattern. I had a hard time locating a copy in the US, so I ended up ordering one straight for Republique du Chiffon in France. It was honestly pretty affordable and only took a week or two to get to me which was much better than I had expected. In fact, I am obsessed with their new Gaston Trouser pattern and will be buying a pattern as soon as they have an english version available.

I particularly wanted this overall pattern because of a combination of the skinny leg, waistband, and unique bib shape. I felt that those details, combined with a black material help the overalls feel a bit more sophisticated and less juvenile.

I did make a few changes to the pattern. First of all I thinned out the leg below the thigh quite a bit to make it more skinny and then added a little cuff at the bottom. I also had to shorten the torso by quite a bit to make the bib and crotch hit me at the right place. I cut 3/4″ off of the bottom of the bib and then 1 1/2″ off of the top of the trouser section before attaching both to the waistband.

The fabric for the overalls is a cotton lycra from The Fabric Store in LA. I chose it because it isn’t too thick and doesn’t have a sheen to it. I like the natural texture to it. It has the slightest bit of stretch that really helps with fit and comfort. It really was the perfect fabric for this project. I had the hardest time finding buckles but ended up getting some vintage ones on etsy. I love that they are more of a brass instead of the silver ones I could find here.

Although I am still working on how to exactly style these, I decided to make up a few Rumi Tanks to pair them with. I am wearing the gray one in the photos, but you can also see the striped and camo green versions below. All three three lightweight jersey fabrics are also from The Fabric Store. They are the perfect weight for tops – soft and lightweight without being sheer. I love this pattern so much. Easy to sew and a great sporty shape. I want to make the dress version next.

 

I am pretty sure that you are going to be seeing a lot of these overalls during the rest of Me Made May. I love them so much. I want to make another pair but as shorts too.

 

SEWING

LODO SEWALONG DAY 5

April 28, 2017

Thank you everyone for following along with the Lodo Dress Sewalong. I am so excited with the way that my dresses turned out.

For View A – the longer, midcalf version, I used a black and white striped ponte knit that I picked up at some point in NYC. It’s a really nice ponte that sewed up great and I am so excited to wear it all summer long.

View B – the shorter version, is sewn up in a maroon cotton interlock that I bought at Colorado Fabrics a few weeks ago. It’s the perfect amount of stable knit but also soft and more casual like a thicker tshirt fabric.

If you guys participated in the sewalong I would love to see your versions of the Lodo Dress. Make sure you tag your photos with #lododress and @truebias so that I see them.

SEWING

LODO DRESS SEWALONG DAY 4

April 27, 2017

Congrats on making it this far in the Lodo dress sewalong because we are almost done. Today is our last day or sewing and tomorrow we just show off our finished dresses. Let’s get started!

 

Step 11 – Fold the outside (short) edges of each woven armhole facing in by 1/4″ (wrong sides touching) and press.

Fold the unnotched long edge of the armhole facing up by 1/4″ (wrong sides touching) and press.

If you are finishing your seam allowances of the side seams you need to do this at this time. It’s not necessary since knits do not fray, but to show you I serged the entire side seams (from one hem, up over the shoulder, to the other hem) on my maroon version.

 

Step 12 – With right sides touching and matching notches, pin the woven armhole facing to the edge of each side of the dress along the armhole. The fact that the facing is cut on the bias will allow it to curve along the edge of the dress.

 

Step 13 – Starting at one folded end of the facing, stitch (using a regular nonstretch stitch) along the raw edges until you reach the other folded end. Repeat for other armhole.

Trim the seam allowance of the woven facing to about 1/4″ to reduce bulk.

 

Step 14 – Press the armhole facing away from the dress and on top of the seam allowances.

 

Step 15 – With right sides touching, pin the front and aback together along the side seams from the hem to the underarm notch.

 

Step 16 – With the armhole facing still pressed outwards, use a stretch stitch to sew from the underarm notch to the hem, backstitching at both ends. Note that you will be stitching directily on top of previous stitching for about 3/4″ just below the underarm notch.

 

Step 17 – Press seam allowances open below the armhole notch. Continue to press the armhole facing towards the inside of the dress above the armhole notches so that wrong sides are touching. (Just like on the neckline.) Pin and press so that the armhole seam is rolled slightly towards the inside of the dress to make it less visible on the right side of the garment.

 

Step 18 – Using a nonstretch straight stitch, edgestitch around all sides of the armhole facing, pivoting at corners and stitching over the sideseam at the bottom of the armhole to connect. Backstitch to secure. Press.

If you want to finish the seam allowance of the bottom of your dress before hemming, you should do that now. I serged the bottom of my maroon version here.

 

Step 19 – Turn the bottom of the dress up by 1 inch. Pin and press.

Using a stretch stitch, topstitch at 7/8″ from the folded hem to secure.

Give your whole dress a nice press and wear it proudly! Tomorrow I will show you my dresses being worn.

 

SEWING TUTORIALS

LODO DRESS SEWALONG DAY 3

April 26, 2017

Welcome back for Day 3 of the Lodo Dress Sewalong. I am super excited to tackle the neckline today. You can put aside your woven arm facing pieces and just grab your woven neckline facings along with your knit dress.

For all of the steps in todays sewalong you will be using a regular, non stretch stitch on your sewing machine. And just a reminder that all seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise stated.

 

Step 5 – With right sides touching, sew the shoulder seams of the front and back woven neck facings together. Press the seams open. No need to finish these seam allowances as they will not be exposed.

Turn the outside edges of the facing towards the wrong side by about 1/4″ all around and press well. Steam helps a lot. One tip that I sometimes use is to run a line of stitching at 1/4″ around the outside edge of the facing first. Then press along the stitching line. It just makes it a bit easier to get a crisp and even edge.

 

Step 6 – With right sides touching, line up the necklines of the dress and facing and pin generously.

 

Step 7 – Starting at Center Back, stitch around the inside edge of the neckline.

When you get to center front, leave your needle down, puck up your presser foot, and rotate to finish stitching up the other side of the neckline to finish at center back.

It’s a good idea to shorten your stitch length for about an inch in either direction of the center front V. This will give that area extra strength and also help your be more precise in stitching your V. I usually lower the stitch length down to about 1.5.

 

Step 8 – Trim the seam allowance of the woven facing to about 1/4″ to reduce bulk in that area.

Snip close to, but not thru the seam allowances of the V at center front. This will help you achieve a crisp V.

Continue clipping around the remainder of the neckline to help it turn easily and have a smooth finish.

 

Step 9 – Pull the facing through the neckline and towards the wrong side of the dress. Pin and press so that the neckline seam is rolled slightly towards the inside of the dress to make it less visible on the right side of the garment. This is especially crucial if your facing does not match your knit fabric.

 

Step 10 – Starting at center back, edgestitch along the folded edge of the facing about 1/8″ away from the fold.

When you get to center front, leave your needle down, pick up your presser foot, and rotate to finish stitching up the other side of the neckline to finish at center back.

This stitching is where you really want to be careful an take your time. It is visible on the right side of your dress and will be distracting if it’s uneven.

Give it a press and you are done for today! Come back tomorrow and we will finish up the whole dress.

SEWING TUTORIALS

LODO DRESS SEWALONG DAY 2

April 25, 2017

Welcome back to day 2 of the Lodo Dress Sewalong. I am excited to get sewing. Today we are going to be tackling the back seam, back slit for View A and sewing up the shoulder seams. Super easy. Let’s get started.

Step 1 – (This Step is for View A Only. View B starts at Step 3 so go ahead and skip on down to Step 3 if you are sewing the shorter version without a back slit.) 

Remember that all seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise stated in the instructions.

If you want to finish the seams with a serger you will want to do that now. You can serge each back seam independently before sewing them together. Since knits do not fray this is not necessary. I am going to opt out on serging View A (but will serge View B so that you can see both). You will be sewing this step using a stretch stitch. If your machine has a stretch stitch it will look something like a lightning bolt. No. 9 on my machine.

If you don’t have one of those stitches on your machine you can also use a zigzag stitch and just adjust the settings. You can play around with the settings and see what works best on your fabric, but I find that something like what you see in the following photo work for me.

With right sides touching and matching the triple notches on center back, sew up the back seam using a stretch stitch. Sew the dress from the neckline down to the large dot. This will be the top of your slit so backstitch it to secure the endpoint.

 

Step 2 – Press the seam allowances above the large dot open. Press the area below the large dot open 1.5″ on both sides. Pin it in place.

Edgestitch around the 3 sides of the slit at about 1/8″ from the raw edge (crossing over the center back seam at the top). Continue using a stretch stitch to do this.

 

Step 3 – (This Step is for View B Only. If you are sewing up the mid calf version, View A, then skip ahead to step 4.)

With right sides touching and matching the triple notches at center back, pin and stitch the center back seam together from top to bottom using a stretch stitch (for more info on the stretch stitch check out step 1).

If you are using a serger to finish the seam allowances you can serge the seam allowances together now and press to one side. If you are not finishing the seam allowances then press the seam allowances open.

 

Step 4 – (All Views use this step.)

In preparation for tomorrows post, we are going to attach the front and back at the shoulder seam. With right sides touching, pin and sew the coordinating shoulder seams of the front dress to the back dress. Use a stretch stitch as in previous steps.

If you are finishing the seam allowances with a serger you can do this now and press them towards the back of the dress.

If you are not finishing the seam allowances press the seams open.

Turn your dress right side out and it should look something like this.

 

OK, that’s it for today. I hope that was easy and clear. If you have any questions comment, or send me a message. Remember to tag your dress and progress photos on social media with #lododress and @truebias so that I see them. You can purchase the Lodo Dress sewing pattern in my shop here.