March 12, 2018

Ever since releasing the Lander pants and shorts last year, I have been flooded with requests for a zipper option for this pattern. I am so excited to finally have it available for you with the Lander Zipper Expansion Pack.

If you have already sewn up the button fly option of the Lander pant, this expansion pack is perfect for you. I made sure to use as many of the same pattern pieces and instructions as possible so that this really is a natural extension of the original pattern. It is a bit more advanced than the button option, but I have provided detailed instructions, as well as some additional pattern pieces to make it as easy as possible.


One of my biggest pet peeves when sewing a zipper fly is shortening the zipper – especially metal ones. It’s the worst! So I made sure that all sizes use a standard size zipper (5″, 6″, or 7″). I prefer the metal jeans zippers, but you can also use the standard plastic ones if you prefer. The expansion pattern includes new pattern pieces for the right fly, left fly, and waistband, as well as a right fly extension to make sure that the zipper tucks into your pants nicely and is not visible when worn.

The expansion pack only comes as a pdf, but the print at home pattern is just 7 pages to tape, and there is a copy shop pattern included that works for both US and A0 printers.


Please note that you must have the original pdf or paper Lander pattern to make the zipper Landers. The expansion pack does not include all of the instructions or pattern pieces needed to complete the entire project.

You can find the pattern in my shop for purchase here.



March 6, 2018


March is Roscoe Month at True Bias. This means that I have 5 versions of the Roscoe pattern to share with you throughout the month, and both the pdf and paper versions of the pattern are 20% off with the code ROSCOEMONTH through the end of March.

This first Roscoe that I made up is this rayon crepe blouse that I am in love with. I made a few hacks to the pattern this time. First of all I lengthened the sleeves to be wrist length instead of 3/4. Since I didn’t want to worry about a sleeve placket, I simply exchanged the sleeve casing for a an elastic casing. I lengthened the whole sleeve about 4 inches and then straightened the bottom to make creating the elastic casing easier. I folded it 1/4″ and then 1/2″, stitching it leaving an opening for the elastic. Then I measured the elastic that would be comfortable at my wrist, fed it through the channel and sewed the ends together. Then I sewed up the opening that I had left. I love the drama of the full sleeve.

The other change that I made to this blouse, compared to the original pattern, is the hem. The original pattern has an easy straight hem. I thought I would play with it a bit so I cut a shirttail style hem where the front and back are longer and the sides are shorter. Because the shirt is so full it’s hard to tell, but I do think the end result it nice. It makes it a little more fluttery with the different lengths.

The fabric for this blouse is rayon crepe from my stash that I originally sourced from The Fabric Store. I have some black rayon crepe from them as well that I am hoping to make into a Roscoe Dress. I love rayon crepe. It has the easy wash and wear capabilities of rayon challis, but the crepe falls a bit heavier for a more dramatic look. It hugs your curves a bit more which is especially great on a full style like this one. I also love sewing up my Southport pattern in rayon crepe in the maxi length because it moves so beautifully when you walk.

That is it for now. I have more Roscoes  in the works that I can’t wait to show you guys.



February 22, 2018

Today we are going to finish up your Nikko top or dress by hemming them finishing up the side slits for the dress views.

Step 15 – Turn the hemline up by 1” (2.5 cm). Pin and press. I am using some fusible knit tape to prevent stretching out the hem which you can see below.


Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. I like to use my twin stretch needle for my tops because the stitching is pretty visible on these thinner knits. I think that the twin needle looks really professional.

And that is it. Views A & B are finished!

Now, if you are sewing up Views C or D (the dress views) then we are going to finish up the side slits and hem.

Step 16 – If you havn’t already, press the side seam allowances open above the dot and continue to press it open below the dot and pin in place so that it is an even 3/4” on each side. It is very important that this stitching does not stretch out as you sew it. I chose to use the heat n bond soft stretch to help, but I also decreased the tension on my sewing machine which seemed to do the trick. Practice with scrap fabric until it looks right for you.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, edgestitch around the three sides of each slit, pivoting at the corners and stitching just above the large dot as pictured. I went with an elongated stretch stitch for this as I find that with the ribknit fabric the stitches pretty much disappear into the thickness.


Step 17 – Turn the hemline of the front dress up by 1” (2.5cm). Pin and press. If using a stabilizing knit tape apply here as well. You do not want the stitching to stretch out the fabric or you will end up with a fish tail effect at the bottom.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. (If your fabric is very stretchy, you may want to consider using some fusible knit tape to stabilize the hem before stitching.) Repeat for back hemline.

Congrats, Views C & D are finished!


Let me know if you have any questions and please tag your versions with #nikkotop or #nikkodress so that I can see them.



February 21, 2018

Today we are going to sew up the side seams and the sleeves for Views B and D (the sleeved versions) of the Nikko Top and Dress.

Step 12 – With right sides touching, pin one sleeve to the coordinating armhole edge of the garment, matching notches. First match the top shoulder notch of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the garment.

Next match up the front and back sleeve and armhole notches. It’s hard to photograph since it gets all scrunched up in this step, but you get the idea. If you are an experienced sewist you should be able to sew it up with just these pins, but if you are more beginner feel free to add more pins in for guidance.

Sew using a stretch stitch or serge like I did. Press seam allowances towards the sleeve. Repeat for other sleeve.


Step 13 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at sides, continuing to pin sleeve underarm edges together. Make sure the lower edges of the garment and sleeve align, and that the underarm seams match up.

For View B (top), stitch from the wrist to the hem in one continuous seam. This can be done on a serger or stretch stitch on your regular machine. If using a stretch stitch press seam open. If serging like I did, press seam allowance to the back of the garment.

For View D (dress), sew from the wrist down to the large dot in one continuous seam and backstitch at the dot. Be sure to stitch straight down to the dot at the slit and not follow the curve at that point. Press seam allowances open. (Note that for View D, this step must be done on a sewing machine and not a serger to accommodate the slit. If you want to finish the raw edges on a serger, finish the front and back edges separately and then sew together with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. I chose to just leave them raw.)


Step 14 – Now it’s time to finish the sleeves by hemming them. This is where I like to use some sort of fusible knit tape to stabilize the seam before stitching. Since the fabric used on this pattern has so much stretch, I often get wavy seams. My tape of choice is the HeatnBond Soft Stretch because it’s easy to find, but I am sure there are other similar products or tricks out there for hemming slinky knits. You can see the clear tape on the bottom of my top here.

Turn the lower edge of each sleeve up by 1” (2.5cm). Pin and press.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from each folded sleeve hem to secure. With this pattern, I have found that I like to use a double needle for thinner fabrics like this bamboo jersey because you see the stitching. For thicker fabrics like sweater knits or rib knits I prefer a regular zigzag stitch (2 length and 3 width) because the stitching disappears into the thickness of the fabric.

That’s it for today! Tomorrow we will finish up with hemming and side slits.



February 20, 2018

Today we are going to finish up the side seams and the armholes for Views A and C of the Nikko which are the sleeveless versions. If you are sewing Views B or D (with sleeves) you can take a break and wait for tomorrow.

Step 7 – With right sides touching and matching notches, pin the front to the back at sides.

Sew side seams with a stretch stitch. For View A, sew from the armhole to the hem, backstitching at both ends.

For View C (shown), sew from the armhole to the large dot and backstitch. Make sure that you sew straight down to the dot and not follow the curve of the slit. It should look like this:

Press seam allowances open.

Note that for View C this step must be done on a sewing machine and not a serger to accomodate the slit. If using a serger, you may choose to finish the front and back edges separately and then sew the seam together with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. Since knit fabric does not generally fray, I decided to not serge the edges in order to reduce any bulk.


Step 8 – You will notice that for the armhole facings, I am using a different fabric than my main dress fabric. If your fabric is a bit bulky like mine I recommend doing this as it will reduce any bulk in that area. You just have to be extra careful that none of your facing peeks out once you turn it under and stitch in the following steps.

With right sides touching, sew the short ends of the armhole facing together. Press seam allowances open if using a regular machine or to one side if using a serger.

With wrong sides touching, fold the armhole facing in half, aligning the long raw edges, and matching up the seam. Press.

Divide the armhole facing into quarters in the same manner as the neckband, placing pins at each quarter matchpoint.


Step 9 – Like you did for the neckline, divide the garment armhole into quarters, placing pins at each quarter matchpoint.


Step 10 – With right sides touching, pin the armhole facing to the garment armhole, bringing quarter matchpoints together. Add more pins if desired.

Sew the armhole seam using a stretch stitch or serger, stretching the armhole facing evenly between matchpoints to fit into the garment armhole as it is a bit smaller.


Step 11 – Turn your garment inside out. Pull the armhole facing to the inside of the garment. Pin and press so that the armhole seam is rolled slightly towards the inside of the garment to make it less visible on the right side. I like it to roll about 1/16″ to the inside to make sure that you don’t see it when right side out. This is especially important if your armhole facing is a different color like mine is.

Stitch along the fold of the facing to secure it to the garment using a stretch stitch. Press.

That is it for today! If you are sewing up the sleeveless top you are almost done. Come back tomorrow for the side seams and sleeves of Views B and D, and then on Thursday we will finish up the hems and side slits. In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions.