With the last day to enter the sewalong contest being today, I thought that it would be fun to share some of the versions made up by my pattern testers.  Along with each photo, each tester provided a little suggestion or tip for sewing up the Hudson Pants.  For those of you still trying to finish a pair of pants for the contest, maybe this will give you the motivation for the final stretch.  I love my pattern testers and am extremely indebted to them for all of their hard work.  They have made some seriously amazing versions of the Hudson Pant.

Teresa of Dandelion Drift

“These pants are perfect to lounge around the house in, but also can easily be worn out and about!  So far, my chambray button down has been my go to top I’ve paired with my Hudson Pant.”


Krista of Lazy Saturdays

“I was thrilled when Kelli asked me to test our her Hudson pattern! I had just found out I was expecting and thought they would be great for maternity wear. I was right! The low cut and thick elastic waistband fit so comfortably below my belly. I love the cut of the legs and feel equally comfortable and cute in them, which I think both are important during pregnancy. While choosing a size to make, I only used my hip measurement and went up one size so I’d have room to grow. This made the perfect maternity pant for me! This is my second pregnancy and I’m growing out of my clothes much more quickly this time, but my Hudson pants remain Perfect! I wear them all the time and plan on making many more in a variety of prints. I think they will be amazing postpartum as well!”


Kelly from Cut Cut Sew

“I have been wearing this casual version around the house constantly, and I can’t wait to try a dressier version for wearing out and about- maybe with some stretch lace, or a cool woven version like Kelli made”


Carly of Away We Sew 


Caroline – Instagram / Sewaholic Contributor

“The Hudson Pants are a great combination of cool and comfortable. The pants were fun to sew from start to finish, and I love the way the waistband comes out looking professional and sturdy. I am already planning my next pair – a black french terry version with leather pocket details. Can’t wait!”



“I went with a neutral blue for my pants so I can wear them with just about anything, but I plan to make some more in a cute print soon.  I’m loving my Hudson pants and my favorite combo so far is pairing them with my knit scout tee.”


Erin of Sew Bon

“I love lounging around in my casual version of the Hudson Pant and I can’t wait to make a dressier version too. I’m currently obsessing over the idea of a pair of Hudson’s in a drapey woven like silk!”


Kristin of Skirt as Top

“I don’t always wear sweatpants in public, but when I do, I prefer Hudson Pants.”


Katie of What Katie Sews

“Find a double-sided fabric for an easy way to add a contrast to the waistband, pocket edges, yokes or cuffs. Tonal shades of the same colour add a bit of detail without being overstated.”


Meg of Cookin and Craftin

“Looking for a more streamlined pocket?  Don’t cut out the outer pocket piece, and instead use the pocket detail to bind just the front pant pocket edge. Topstitch the inner pocket piece directly to the inside of the front pant leg. Use a contrasting color thread for fun!”


Meghan of Made by Meg

“I love my drawstring to a bit of give to it for comfort, so here’s a tip I picked up in an old Vogue pattern : add a small strip of elastic to your drawstring at center back!”


Rachel from Boo Dogg and Me

“Make these in a patterned fabric to set them apart from ‘normal’ tracky pants. Team them with a pair of Converse sneakers and a t-shirt and away you go! I wear mine almost every day and wear them everywhere. I love them.”


I can’t wait to see everyone’s entries.  Don’t forget to enter your Hudson Pants by either tagging your photo #hudsonsewalong on Instagram or sending me a picture via email with the title hudson sewalong.  Gift certificates will be given to 1st, 2nd, and 3rd places by the amazing Wanderlust Fabrics.  The winners will be announced on Thursday.


gleeful lakeside pjs-7199

I’ve been wanting to make up some of Grainline’s Lakeside PJ’s for awhile now.  Mostly because I love everything she makes.  Also because it is crazy muggy and hot in NYC right now and we don’t have central air. Yuck.

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When Caroline of Sew Caroline contacted me about trying out some of her new fabric from her Gleeful line I knew that this would be the perfect project.  I hadn’t ever worked with voile from Art Gallery Fabrics before, but I can honestly say that it’s beautiful and soft and high quality.  I wouldn’t hesitate to buy voile from them again.

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Like all of Grainline’s patterns the Lakeside PJ’s went together seamlessly.  She has a really clever way of sewing the shorts together and attaching the tape.  It’s simple and fast to sew up and fit perfectly.

My only regret is that I didn’t take the time to make my own bias tape.  It takes 7 yds of bias tape and I really didn’t want to make it.  Instead I bought some in the garment district hoping that it would be better quality, only to be disappointed.  It is a beautiful color and I love the contrast, but it’s not soft at all.  These pjs will still get tons of wear, but next time – and there will be a next time – I will make my own bias tape for sure.  It’s definitely worth the effort.  Take it from me.

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* disclaimer – The fabric for this post was provided by Art Gallery Fabrics as part of the Gleeful Blog Hop.  As always the opinions expressed in this post are my own.



woven hudsons-7182

In case you havn’t had enough Hudson Pant hooplah lately, I thought I would share a little variation with you all.  I am a big fan of the track pant trend right now.  It’s a very similar style to the Hudson Pant, mainly just that it’s made using a woven fabric instead of a knit.  I was curious if this would work with the Hudson Pant pattern so I gave it a try and I must say that I am pretty excited about how they turned out.  Here is how you can do it as well.


Instead of knit you will need a woven fabric.  Mine is a rayon challis from Fashion Fabrics Club.  It’s soft and fluid, but still washes well.  I am really happy with the fabric.  They seem to be out of this print right now, but I’m kinda wanting to try this one next.  Plus their challis seems to be on sale right now which is a plus.  I also think that a peachskin, viscose, or lightweight cotton would work great too.  I am thinking that I might want to try out a light chambray sometime as well.

Cutting out your pattern

To accomodate the fact that you are using a woven instead of a knit fabric you are going to need to go up in size.  I went up two sizes and was happy with the fit, although I think 3 sizes up would be good too if you wanted them a bit roomier.

For the pockets I omitted the pocket detail.  In doing so I lost some of the depth of the pocket.  To accomodate this and the fact that the woven makes for a tighter pocket I added 1 1/2″ to the length of both the main pocket and pocket lining pieces.


I also ommitted the ankle band.  As a result of this and the need to hem them, you will need to lengthen the main pant front and back by about 4 1/2″. (I only lengthened mine by 2 1/2 inches because I usually shorten my pants by 2 inches anyways.)

You don’t want the ankle opening to be too small so you will want to gradually grade in from a few inches above your original ankle length.  You can always take them in more once you try them on.


Sewing Up Your Pants

As mentioned above I omitted the pocket detail.  Instead I topstitched the pocket curve at 1/4″ to keep everything in place.


I also decided to not do the drawstring in order to dress them up a tiny bit.  As a result I didn’t do the buttonholes on the waistband.  Otherwise it was the same as the instructions.


Because there is no ankle band you will need to hem your pants.  Before doing so try on your pants to check the fit and length.  I ended up narrowing the ankles by about 1/2″ on each side.

To hem them turn the bottom up by 1/4″, press, turn up another 1″, press and stitch at 7/8″ on the right side of your pant to secure the hem.




Press your woven Hudson pant and you are done!

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woven hudsons-7172 woven hudsons-7173


I was lucky enough to get to chat with Stephanie of the Modern Sewciety Podcast last week.  Stephanie is sweet and has an adorable southern accent that reminds me of growing up in Alabama.  We chatted about all sorts of things including how I started sewing, the evolution of my blog, and of coarse the Hudson Pants.  It was really fun.  If you don’t already subscribe to her podcasts I highly recommend it.  I find it so inspiring to listen to the stories of all of the men and women who share my passion of sewing and how they got to where they are now.

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Also, just as a reminder the last day to submit a pair of pants for the Hudson Sewalong contest is next Tuesday, July 22nd.  To enter just email me a picture of your pants with the email title of Hudson Sewalong or tag a photo of your pants on instagram with the hashtag #hudsonsewalong.  The prizes are gift certificates from the amazing Wanderlust Fabrics.  There have already been some great entries so I am super excited to show you all what everyone has been making.


I loved the other overalls that I made my little guy so much that I decided to make up another pair.  This time I used some awesome linen from Gray Line Linen in the Garment District.  As I mentioned before they are kinda my favorite store right now.  I love the natural feel of linen and the fact that I can kinda get away with letting them be wrinkled.

This really might be one of my favorite things that I’ve ever made for my kids.  I love that it’s classic and yet still modern.  I’m not one to hang onto my kids clothes once they grow out of them, but this one just might make it to the “for the grandkids one day” pile.

The pattern is vintage Simplicity 6948 from 1975.  It’s a simple and very classic overall pattern with a cool overlapping feature to the straps that makes it a little tricky to make, but looks really cool once it’s done.  The only bummer for me is that the pattern is only in a size 1 which means that I probably won’t be able to make anymore for my little boy although I do think that this would be a great baby shower boy gift so I will probably keep it around.

I didn’t make any changes to the pattern except that I used a contrasting mustard fabric for the lining.  One of those happy accidents because I ran out of fabric.

If you want to check out my other version of these overalls you can see them here.


19 – Start by folding the band in half width-wise with right sides together. Pin. Sew the two short ends together to form a tube. Press seam open.

20 – Fold the bottom of the tube up to meet the top of the tube with wrong sides together, matching notches and seam. Pin edges together and press fold.

21 – Pin the raw edges of one ankle / calf band to the right side of the corresponding leg opening. Match the band seam to the inner leg seam and the band notch to the outer leg seam. The band is slightly smaller than the leg opening so stretch to match.

Stitch together. Trim seam allowances and press up towards the leg. Repeat on other leg.


Hooray!  We finished.  Please let me know if you have any questions.

I hope that you are all participating in the contest which is open to everyone and includes gift certificate prizes for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place from Wanderlust Fabrics.

To enter just post a photo of your pants on instagram with the hashtag #hudsonsewalong or send me an email with your picture attached and title the email hudson sewalong.  I must have all entries by Tuesday July 22nd and the winners will be announced on Thursday July 24th.  Good luck!


11 – Fuse your 2” x 1“ scrap of interfacing to the back side of the waistband, horizontally centered behind the buttonhole marks.

On the right side of the waistband, sew two 1/2” buttonholes on markings. Carefully open your buttonholes according to your preferred method. (I like to use two pins to protect the end points and then a seam ripper to open up the middle.)

12 – Join the two short ends of the waistband together, forming a ring, right sides together. Pin, stitch, press open.

13 – Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing each other. Pin the raw edges together.

14 – Match the right side of the waistband (side with buttonholes) to the right side of the pant at waist. Pin in place matching center backs, center fronts, and side seams to circle markings. Everything should match up really nicely, but the great thing is that even if you have a bit of extra fabric you can just stretch to fit.

Stitch together leaving a 4” opening at center back.

15 – Wrap your elastic around your lower waist (not your natural waist as theses pants sit about 3″ below your natural waist ) and find the length that feels comfortable, but is still snug. This is not the same as your waist measurement.  Because you want it to be snug it is usually about 1″ smaller than the measurement itself.  Add 1/2” for overlap and cut your elastic. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and feed it through the 4“ opening in the waistband until it forms a circle with both ends exiting the waistband.

Overlap by 1/2” and topstitch the overlapped area of the elastic until it is secure. It is very important that this stitch is VERY secure.  Stitch over it multiple times and in multiple directions.  I usually stitch a rectangle and then an x inside of that.

(This might be a good time to try your pants on to check the fit of the elastic.  Once you sew up the opening in the waistband it will be really annoying to adjust.)

16 – Put the elastic all the way inside of your waistband and stitch up the 4” opening so that the elastic is fully encased and the pants are completely attached to the waistband. Press the seam allowance down towards the pant.

Distribute the gathering on the waistband evenly. Pin waistband fabric to the elastic every few inches to keep the gathering in place. This will come in handy in the next step when you are topstitching all of those gathers.  I also like to lightly iron the waistband at this time to set all of the gathers in place before stitching them.

17 – Using a slight zigzag stitch (or stretch stitch) on your sewing machine, start at center back and topstitch around your waistband through both layers of fabric and the elastic at 5/8” from the top. You will need to pull your elastic until the waistband fabric is not gath- ered in front of your presserfoot as you sew. This will feel a little awkward at first, but just hang in there until you get the hang of it.  I find that if I hold the waistband about 3 inches behind the presserfoot with with my left hand and about 5 inches in front of the preserfoot with the right hand that it feels most comfortable and I can hold the waistband secure without putting any tension on the sewing needle.

Repeat with another row of topstitching, parallel to the first, at 1 1/2” from the top. (Tip : Mark this guideline with a piece of masking tape on your sewing machine.)

18 – Attach your drawstring cord to a safety pin and feed it through one buttonhole, into the casing created by the topstitching, and back out the other buttonhole. Shorten cord if necessary.  There are a few ways that you can secure the ends of your cord from unraveling.  You can simply stitch them, or tie a knot, or if it’s synthetic you can also melt the end.  I know that one of my testers just bought a shoelace to use and that way she didn’t have to worry about the ends which I thought was an awesome idea.

OK, that’s it for today.  We are so close to being done.  Just the cuffs tomorrow.

* The fabric and prizes for this sewalong were generously donated by Wanderlust Fabrics.


9 – With right sides together, stitch the left front and left back pant pieces together at the inner leg seam and the side seam.

Press seams open. Repeat for right leg.

10 – With the right leg inside out and the left leg right side out, put the left leg inside of the right leg. Legs are now right sides together. Match the inner leg seams, center front, center back, and notches on the crotch. Pin.

Stitch the entire crotch, front to back. Pull legs apart. Press seam open.

Turn right sides out.  And admire what finally is starting to look like hudson pants!

Now that they are starting to look like pants you can give them a first try on.  There will still be quite a bit of extra room around the waist and hips.  Don’t worry, once we put on the waistband next week that will all be cinched in.

* The fabric for this sewalong was provided by Wanderlust fabrics.


Note : From here on out in the sewalong I will be coordinating the step #’s to the instructions that come with your pattern so that you can easily follow along.

Hooray!  We are finally sewing today.  This is where it gets fun.  I will be sewing using my stretch stitch (or lightening bolt stitch) on my sewing machine.  You can also use a serger for most of the process if you have one.

2 – Fold your pocket details in half length-wise with the right side out. Press the fold.

3 – Pin the raw edges of the pocket detail to the right side of the pocket lining along the small, unnotched curve, stretching slightly to fit. (There should only be about 1/4″ left over to stretch.  This will help the pocket to lay flat against the body once it’s all together.) Baste the pocket detail to the pocket lining at 3/8” seam allowance. (Basting = A way to temporarily join fabric together by making large removable stitches.  Switch your stitch length to the longest possible length as shown below to baste.)

4 – Matching notches, pin the right side of the pocket lining and pocket detail to the right side of the pant front with the pocket detail sandwiched in the middle. (Make sure that you are sewing it to the pocket curve and not the crotch curve of the pant front.  This curve is not notched.) With the pocket lining on top, stitch all layers together along the small curved edge. (You can use your basting stitch as a guide. – This really helps to keep the pocket detail an even width.)

Trim seam allowance to avoid bulk. ( I trim the seam allowance for the pant front and pocket lining to 1/8″ and one of the pocket detail seam allowances to 1/4″.  This will make it so you don’t see a line on the outside of your pant where the seam allowance ends.)

5 – Flip the pocket lining around so that it is wrong sides together with the pant front. Match notches.  Press the pant front and pocket lining towards seam allowance with the pocket detail standing up between them. (If your basting stitch is showing anywhere pull it out now.)

6 – Pin the right side of the main pocket to the right side of the pocket lining along the long edge. Making sure that the pant front stays out of the way, stitch the two pocket pieces together (only along the outside edge).

7 – Match notches of the pocket pieces to the pant front and baste along the top and side through all layers.

8 – Trim the pocket detail if necessary so that the ends are flush with the pant and pocket.


Today we are going to talk about printing, and assembling your pdf pattern from your at home printer.  Then we will layout our pattern, cut out our fabric, and transfer markings.

Printing Your Pattern

After you open up your pattern in whatever program that you wish to view it in, go to File – Print.  When your printing dialog box comes up there are a few things that you need to be on top of.  First make sure that the scale to fit is unchecked and that the scale is set to print at 100%.

You will also notice that at the top of my page I have selected Plain paper, Best.  This is personal preference, but I have learned that if I use this setting as opposed to a draft setting that my pages print much more evenly making the assembly process much easier.

At first, we are just going to print of page 1 so that we can double check our scaling.

Once you have printed page 1 then take a ruler and measure the 2″ x 2″ square.

If it measures accurately then you are ready to print the remaining pages of your pattern.  If you are sewing view A then you don’t need to print pages 22-24.  If you are sewing view B then you don’t need to print pages 25-26. (I am printing all of the pieces for my own purposes.)

You can also print out your instructions at this time using the same method, or you can just view them on your computer to save some paper.

Assembling Your Pattern

Now that your pattern is printed lets put it together.  There are lots of ways to do this, but I will show you the way that I like to do it.

I like to take my paper four pieces at a time (make sure that they are all facing the same way).  Then I take a paper cutter (you can use scissors or an xacto knife if you don’t own a cutter) and cut off the right side border and bottom border.  I like to do these in batches of four, but you can also do them one at a time if it makes you more comfortable.

Now line the four pattern pages up so that they go in numerical order by the big light gray number in the middle of each page.  Then match up the gray circles so that the two halves match up and make a whole.  Tape in place.

Continue in the same way with the next four pattern pages but this time attach each page to the one next to it and the one above it.

Continue for all remaining pattern pages until they are all connected.  It should look something like this once you are done.

 Choosing Your Size

Just a little note on choosing what size to cut.  Take your waist, hips and height measurements with a measuring tape and compare them to the size chart in your pattern instructions.  If you are between sizes use the larger one.  If you are multiple sizes then use the one closest to your hip. Because the waist is elastic the waist measurement is not as important.

Cut Out Your Pattern Pieces

Once you have chosen your size then cut out all of your pattern pieces according to that size.  Use the size key included in your pattern printout (above) to determine which dotted line to follow for your size.

The pattern was drafted for someone who is 5’5″ so if you are taller than that then you may want to lengthen your pants where indicated on the pattern pieces front and back.  If you are shorter like me then you will want to shorten them.  To do so just cut along the line indicated on pattern pieces front 1 and back 2.  To lengthen them put some paper behind the cut pattern and separate them the amount that you want to add to the length.  Keep them lined up and tape in place.  To shorten them do the opposite by overlapping them by the amount that you want to remove from the length.  You will need to redraw and trim the inner and outer sideseams so that they are smooth again.

To lengthen:

To Shorten (I am 5’3″ so I shorten the Hudson pants by 2″ like below) :

Layout Your Pattern Pieces / Cut

Before we get fabric involved make sure that it has been washed and dried.  Now that it is ready to go fold your fabric in half lengthwise so that the selvages are touching.  I like to have wrong sides facing in, but that is up to you.  Then lay out your pattern pieces according to your fabric layout and your sizing on page 3 of your instructions.  The layout will be different according to your size.  Most importantly the waistband needs to be cut on the fold and all grainlines need to be parallel to the selvage or perpendicular to the direction of most stretch.

If you decide to do a contrasting fabric for your waistband, ankle/calf band, and pocket detail (as I am doing during this sewalong) then your layout will be a little bit different.  You will need 1/2 yd of your contrasting fabric and you will just need to make sure that you follow the rules of having all grainlines parallel to your selvage (or direction of most stretch) and that your waistband is on the fold.

Now cut out your fabric!

Transfer Markings

You will want to transfer all markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric.  There are lots of ways to do this, but I will show you a few ways that I like.


Probably the fastest and easiest way to mark is a simple clip.  I do this for all notches.  One thing to keep in mind is that the seam allowance is only 3/8″ so your clips must be small and no longer than 1/4″.

Tailors Chalk-

This is probably the easiest way to mark something in the middle of a pattern piece.  I use this to mark the buttonhole.  You can use pins as a guide to know where to mark your chalk.

Thread Tac-

This is a little old school, but it’s the way my mom always marked things so it’s become a habit.  I use this way to mark the circle on the waistband.  This circle will help you to allign your waistband with the sideseam of your pants.  You could also just use a little clip here, but you run the risk of being confused as there are other notches on the pants that you don’t want to match it to.

Wow, that was a long post.  But at least next time we are going to start sewing!

Thank you to Wanderlust Fabrics for sponsoring this sewalong.