SEWING

OGDEN CAMI DAY 2

August 30, 2016

Welcome back to day 2 of the Ogden Sewalong. Like I said yesterday, this is a quick sew, so we will finish up the Ogden Cami today and start on the Emerson shorts and pants tomorrow. Let’s get going.

 

Step 8 –  Make a small snip close to, but not through the point of the V at center front and center back. Make a few more snips around the curves of the armholes and neckline to help them turn easily.

 

Step 9 –  Being careful not to cross or twist them, bring the open end of each strap under the armhole and around to the backside of the cami.  It will be between the cami and the lining the whole time. I realize this feels a little like origami but give it a try a couple of times and it will make sense.

Push them up between the back lining and back cami, where you have left the unstitched spaces. Line the raw edge of each strap up with the raw edge of the seam allowance at each back dot. Pin in place.

 

Step 10 –  Finish sewing the area around the dots that you previously left unstitched, while sewing the ends of the straps you just inserted. (Tip –  You may want to baste first to make sure that your straps are the right length and adjust accordingly before stitching and trimming.)

Trim the seam allowances around all four large dots and the rest of the neckline and armholes to reduce bulk.

 

Step 11 – Turn your cami right side out, pulling gently on the straps to help turn the top corners.

Press the seam allowance and lining gently away from the cami.

On the right side of your lining, understitch by stitching the seam allowance to the lining close to the seam. (Pressing and stitching will not be possible all of the way into the strap areas. Don’t worry about the areas that are hard to reach.) Understitching will help the lining stay on the inside of the cami and not poke out of the neckline. I know you may be tempted to skip it, but I promise you will feel better if you don’t.

 

Step 12 – Hem the bottom of your cami by folding the raw edge up, wrong sides touching, by 1/4” and pressing.

Fold up again at 1/4”  towards the wrong side and  press again.

Pin. Edgestitch along the inside fold to finish the hem.

 

Step 13 – Give your straps, neckline, and armholes a good press so that they are crisp.

Turn your cami inside out. Making sure that the lining is nice and flat, pin the bottom hem of the lining to the cami seam allowance at each side seam.

You can either hand tack the hem of the lining to the seam allowance of the cami with a few stitches, or if you can do what I did here and stitch in the ditch of the side seam to catch the lining. Either way, this will keep the lining down and lined up with wear and washing.

 

Step 14 – Turn your cami right side out. Give it a final press and it’s finished! (Tip – I highly recommend sewing a label or piece of ribbon at the back neckline to differentiate it from the front.)

That’s it for the Ogden cami! Pretty painless right? Tomorrow I will be back with the Emerson pants and shorts sewalong.

SEWING

OGDEN CAMI DAY 1

August 29, 2016

Welcome to day one of the Ogden Cami Sewalong. The Ogden Cami is a very fast sew and so we are going to be doing the sewalong in just two days. We will not be going over assembling the pattern or cutting the fabric as I’ve done this many times before with other patterns. If you need a refresher you can check out this link. Here are a few photos of the pattern assembled and fabric cut out to give you an idea. As far as fabric goes, I am using this silk crepe de chine that I designed through My Fabric Designs and used some ivory colored silk crepe for the lining to keep the two easy to differentiate in the photos.

 

Step 1 – Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. To keep it simple, I like to  just do a simple clip into the notches and use a disappearing fabric ink pen for the dots.

It’s also a good idea to clearly mark the back pieces at this time. I like to put a piece of masking tape on the back cami and back lining pieces for easy identification.

Next, staystitch the neckline and armholes of both the cami and lining pieces at 3/8” seam allowance in the directions shown in the instructions. A lot of people will skip this step. Yes, it’s not necessary, but it really does help you to not stretch out your fabric pieces and assure a good fit. Note that staystitching won’t be shown in future illustrations.

 

Step 2 – Prepare your straps by folding each in half lengthwise, right sides touching. Stitch at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim to 1/8” seam allowance.

Using your loop turner or a safety pin, turn your straps right side out.

Press flat. You can choose which flat side becomes the right side or wrong side at this time, but since it’s a loop it really doesn’t matter.

Step 3 – Pin one end of each strap to the right side of the front cami at dots. The raw edge of the strap should be flush with the top of the point.

Baste at 3/8” seam allowance.

Step 4 – With right sides touching, pin the sides of your front and back cami together, matching notches. Stitch at your normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish seam allowance in your desired manner and press seams open. I chose to do french seams on the main cami and a simple serge on the lining. Repeat this step for lining pieces as well. Depending on how you finish the seams, either press seams open or towards the back. (Tip –  to reduce bulk press your cami seam allowance one way and your lining seam allowance the other.)

Step 5 – Take your lining and turn the bottom edge up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press. Fold up another 1/4”. Pin and press.

Edgestitch along the fold to finish the hem of the lining.

Step 6 – With the cami right side out and the lining inside out, place the cami inside of the lining. Match up the armholes and neckline. Pin. Make sure that the straps stay straight down and out of the way. (Tip – You may want to temporarily pin your straps to the lining to make sure that they stay clear of your stitching.)

Step 7 – Stitch around the neckline, armholes, and front dots. When you get to the V at center front and center back, leave your needle in the fabric and pivot for a nice point. Do not stitch 1/2” in either direction of the back dots to allow room for the strap to be inserted and attached later. (Tip – When stitching around the V points and also across the straps, it’s a good idea to reduce your stitch length to give that area extra strength.)

That’s it for today. We will do the second half tomorrow. Let me know if you have any questions. And if you want to purchase the pattern you can do so here.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

EMERSON AND OGDEN FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS

August 24, 2016

Today we are going to talk about fabric options for both the Ogden and Emerson patterns. I always love this part of the process because of all of the possibilities.

First let’s talk about the Emerson crop pants and shorts. Depending on what fabric you choose, the pattern could be very casual for everyday wear, or super dressy to wear with heels on a date night. The pattern is drafted for light to medium weight wovens such as linen, cotton, chambray, light weight denim and rayon challis. You could obviously use other types of fabric as well, I just recommend staying away from any heavy weight fabrics. Here are some fabrics that I think would work great.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 |16

 

Now for the Ogden cami. For this blouse you really want a fabric that is light and airy. Stay away from quilting cotton as it will be too stiff. The pattern recommends that you use crepe, rayon challis, voile and lightweight linen. My favorite fabric to make this up in is definitely silk crepe. The nice thing is that since this pattern takes such a small amount of fabric, you can use something a little more special like silk without breaking the bank.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16

I hope that helps. Let me now if you have any questions about fabric. I will be doing a quick sewalong for both patterns next week if you would like to follow along.

SEWING

EMERSON AND OGDEN READY-TO-WEAR INSPIRATION

August 22, 2016

I always love these posts. Partly because it gives me lots of ideas on styling my new patterns, but also because it’s super fun to see similar versions of these styles going for hundreds of dollars and knowing that I can make something just as beautiful and perfectly fit to my body.

Crop pants, pleated shorts, and camis are all trendy throw backs to the 90s that you can see everywhere in the stores right now. It’s pretty weird that the throwbacks that are trendy now are the ones that I wore in my teen years. But whatever. I think that sewing is all about experimenting and having fun with what you wear.

First up is the Emerson crop pant. There are two main things that I have noticed about the crop pants in stores. They are high waisted to still give you a long visual leg and they are wide at the bottom (so they are not to be confused with their thinner legged cousin the capri pant). They can be extra full (more like culottes), pleated or flat front, elastic waist or zip fly, but they are always high waisted and wide leg. One other thing that I can say about the crop pant is that they are crazy comfortable. I really never want to take them off! Here are some that I have seen for sale to give you some inspiration.

 

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6

 

View B of the Emerson pattern is a pleated short. Just like View A it has a flat front, elastic back and full leg opening. They are super comfy, easy to wear, and a quick sew. Here are a few similar styles that I have seen to give you some ideas of what you could make for yourself.

 

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6

I am pretty obsessed with the Ogden cami pattern. Not only is it a super quick sew, but it feels sexy and as easy to pair with a pair of jeans as it is with a skirt. I love the Ogden cami paired with the Emerson because the minimalist silhouette of the cami is a perfect balance to the wider and more loose feel of the Emerson crop pant or shots. V neck cami’s are everywhere right now so here are few to give you some inspiration.

 

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6

That’s it for now. Monday I will post some fabric recommendations and a schedule for the sewalongs of both the Emerson and Ogden Patterns (just waiting on some fabric to arrive before I confirm dates). I also have at least one hack tutorial coming soon as well.

 

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

INTRODUCING THE EMERSON AND OGDEN PATTERNS

July 26, 2016

I am doing something a little different this time around and releasing two patterns at the same time as a sort of outfit. There is the Emerson Crop Pant / Shorts pattern and the Ogden Cami pattern. I love both of them so much and am already wearing them all of the time. I hope you love them too.

First up the Emerson is a pull on pair of pants or shorts with a flattering front waistband and elasticized back waistband for ease and comfort. They both have pleats along the front and pockets. View A is the crop pant which I am pretty obsessed with at the moment. Not only is the most comfortable thing in my wardrobe, but it’s also is super on trend at the moment and fun to wear. Some may argue that it isn’t flattering, but I beg to differ. I look at it like I did the middie skirt became so popular a couple of years ago. I think that wearing a heel or a more fitted shirt really give good balance. If my 5’3″ frame can rock it, so can you.

View B is a short with an approximate 4 inch inseam. I have been wearing these non stop. I love to throw on a tank top or V neck tshirt for everyday wear. The pleats give it lots of room for ease and comfort while still adding some interest. Both View A and View B were sewn up in linen The shorts fabric is from Fancy Tiger Crafts and the pant fabric is from Jo-Anns. But really, any light to medium weight woven fabric works great. I love it in a rayon for a more flowy short or a chambray for everyday shorts.

I am also releasing the Ogden Cami pattern today. This is a simple little blouse that is great on it’s own (especially with the Emersons) or really good to have in your closet for layering under a blazer or open buttonup shirt. It has spaghetti straps, a soft V at both front and back necklines, and a partial facing for a professional finish. It’s a fast make and super comfy. I love wearing mine with some jeans and jewelry for a simple date night outfit that makes me feel modern, but not too done up.

The Ogden Cami is great made up in any lightweight woven fabric. All of my samples are sewn up in silk crepes from Colorado Fabrics. I love sewing with silk crepe and the Ogden is a perfect pattern for silk because it only takes a little yardage. But, if silk isn’t your thing, rayon challis, lightweight linen, or even cotton voile would work really well.

If you would like to buy the Emerson or Ogden patterns you can find them here. Use the code LAUNCHWEEK20 to get 20% off the patterns from now through this Sunday at midnight EST.