DIY PATTERNMAKING SEWING

ROSCOE – OFF THE SHOULDER HACK

April 27, 2016

With all of the off the shoulder love everywhere in ready to wear right now, I realized that the Roscoe Blouse and Dress is the perfect pattern the easily hack for this look. With just a few changes you get an easy to wear boho / beachy dress or blouse and it takes just a couple of hours to sew up.

Can I just say how much I love this new trend? It’s pretty friendly to those of us who want to hide some problem areas like the tummy or hips. And yet it’s still super sexy and natural. I’m a big fan. So much easier to pull off than the crop top trend of the last couple of years. I really think that almost anyone can pull this look off.

Materials:

  • Roscoe pattern pieces 1, 2, and 3
  •  1 ” elastic
  • fabric (I’m using rayon challis)
  • matching thread
  • safety pin

 

First you will need to print off pattern pieces front, back and sleeve (you won’t need any of the the others unless you want to add a ruffle or bind up the bottom of the armhole). I printed off the dress length, but you can also trim at the line for blouse length if that is what you are making.

Next, take your front piece and make a mark about 4 inches down at Center Front. Go lower or higher depending on your preferences, but remember that there will be a 1 ” elastic casing above this marking.

Make another marking about 1″ above this one, but on the armhole. Make the marking perpindicular to the armhole curve.

Connect this marking to the CF marking, curving naturally between the two. This will be your cutting line for the front of your dress or blouse.

Put your sleeve pattern piece on top of your dress front pattern piece, lining up the armhole notches. Transfer the point where your cutting line on the front piece hits the armhole, to your sleeve pattern piece at the same point.

Draw the line out, perpindicular to the armhole, for about an inch. Curve the line naturally until you can go straight across (perpindicular to the grainline) until you are close to the back armhole of the sleeve and then curve up a bit so it is perpindicular to the back armhole curve. It should look something like this. It will be the cutting line for your sleeves.

Put the sleeve pattern piece on top of your back dress pattern piece. Line the back armhole of the sleeve up with the back armhole of the back dress (matching notches) and transfer the marking of the line you just made to the armhole of the back dress.

Draw the cutting line of the back dress to CB like you did the others. (Draw out for about an inch perpindicular to the armhole and then straight across to Center Back.)

Now, cut all of the tops off of your pattern pieces along the cutting lines you just drew.

Draw a stitching line 1/2″ below the cutting line on all pieces.

Measure all stitching lines and add them up. Multiply this number by 2 and then subtract  3″ for seam allowances. (Mine was about 58″.)

Take this number and cut a piece of fabric that is that width and 3 1/4″ tall.

Cut out your dress front, dress back, and sleeves as well.

Sew your dress up much like the regular roscoe by first sewing each sleeve armhole to the matching front or back armhole. Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.

Now sew up sides of the sleeves and dress (or blouse) starting at each sleeve end and ending at the bottom of the dress or blouse. Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.

Sew the two small ends of your long skinny pieces together, right sides touching. So it makes a long loop.

Press the loop in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together.

Pin the raw edges of your loop to top of your dress, right sides touching. Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance. Leave a 2 inch section unstitched at center back (to insert the elastic).

Wrap your elastic around your shoulders to get an idea of how long your want it. Add some extra length and cut. Using a safety pin, insert the elastic into the loop and all around so that it enters and exits at the opening at CB. Pin the ends together and try on. Adjust the length of the elastic until it’s snug enough to stay up, but still comfy. My experience is that you want it on the looser side. Your arms and chest will keep it up. If it’s tight it will inch up all day which can be annoying.

Sew the two ends together of your elastic, insert it back into the casing, and stitch the opening at CB closed. Finish the seam allowances of your elastic casing in your desired manner.

Check the length of your dress or blouse and also the length of your sleeves. I ended up cutting a few inches off of the length of the sleeves to hit at my elbow for a different look. Trim as necessary and finish in your favorite way.  I am going to simply serge the edges and fold it up at 1″ and then stitch.

You may want to Stitch through all layers of the elastic and elastic casing at CB and maybe a couple of other places to keep the elastic from flipping around with wear.

Give the whole thing a final press and you are done!

Let me know if you guys have any questions. I can’t wait to wear this out and about.

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16 Comments

  • Reply Mimi Jackson April 27, 2016 at 6:19 PM

    Whoa! Look at you! So pretty and simple, without looking dowdy! I love it! Hope you are well!

    • Reply True Bias April 27, 2016 at 9:43 PM

      thank you so much. its always nice when you can be comfy and still not dowdy.

  • Reply Erin April 27, 2016 at 8:31 PM

    I LOOOOOVE this!!!!

    • Reply True Bias April 27, 2016 at 9:42 PM

      thanks erin! you would rock this.

  • Reply Iris April 27, 2016 at 10:09 PM

    Yayy You! This is great. I can’t wait to try it. Even the pattern alterations haven’t scared me off yet. Thank you.

    • Reply True Bias April 28, 2016 at 1:29 PM

      its a really easy hack. go for it!

  • Reply Tara April 27, 2016 at 11:42 PM

    This is beautiful! I have been wondering about an off the shoulder hack for Roscoe and you took all the guess work out of it, thank you! Do you feel like the style works while hefting around kids all day? I wonder about the practicality of it for that but really want to make one.

    • Reply True Bias April 28, 2016 at 1:30 PM

      i think it depends on the day, but i fully expect to wear it out with my kids and husband on a weekend. and definitely when traveling or on date nights.

  • Reply Aliya Shaikh April 28, 2016 at 6:40 AM

    Thanks for telling us how to stitch own dress. awesome:)
    mens tailored suits

  • Reply Helen Wilkinson April 28, 2016 at 9:37 AM

    I love this! It looks so effortless and chic. A+++

    • Reply True Bias April 28, 2016 at 1:31 PM

      you could totally rock this Helen!

  • Reply Mademoiselle Coconath April 28, 2016 at 10:49 PM

    So chic!
    xx
    Mademoiselle Coconath
    http://mllecoconath.com

  • Reply Serein April 29, 2016 at 10:20 PM

    Love the dress!

    Xoxo
    Serein
    https://sereinwu.com/

  • Reply Sonja May 1, 2016 at 11:26 AM

    Wow! This is so sexy and chic, but not stuffy at all. Perfect for a summer concert!

  • Reply Natalie Harrison October 16, 2016 at 3:15 AM

    Hey, new here. I made an off the shoulder top too. First time ive sewn in three years. I didnt use a pattern i just made a front panel and arm panel and connected them on a 45 degree cut.
    Then i folded over top and created a casing.
    Id love to share it with you xxx

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