The Lander Pant and Short is the perfect blank canvas to create a very 70's inspired patch pocket pant or short. Whether using the original button fly pattern or the zipper expansion, with just a few changes and the free patch pocket download (below), you will be all set.
The first thing I recommend doing is leaving off both the original front and back pockets. You will be replacing the front pockets with the patch pocket pattern pieces and I would just leave off the back pockets all together. This really adds to the 70's look of the pant.
Go ahead and sew up your Landers through the creation of the fly. I recommend adding the patch pockets at the step where you baste the side seams of your Landers. This means pausing after step 19 in the original instructions and after step 26 in the zipper expansion instructions. Once you get to this step, set your pants or shorts aside and create your pockets.
A few things about the patch pocket pattern pieces. They come in sizes small, medium and large and recommended size ranges for each one. These are just suggestions though. You could use any of these pattern pieces on any size of Lander depending on how big you want to your pocket to be. This is your own personal preference. For reference, both of my samples were sewn with the small pocket sizes on a size 6 pant. I think next time I will try the medium size.
Another thing to note is that there are two different shapes to choose from. The angled pocket and the rounded pocket. The construction is very similar, although I would say that the angled pocket is a bit easier, so keep that in mind when choosing.
Click on the link below to access the pdf file. Print your pattern pieces off making sure you are using no scaling and printing at 100%. Cut out two coordinating pockets from your main fabric and make sure to mark your notches.
Unless stated the following instructions apply to both the angled and rounded patch pocket patterns.
Step 1 - With wrong sides touching, press in the top edge by 1/4".
Step 2 - Take this folded edge and press it back at the notches, right sides touching. Pin in place on each side.
Step 3 -
Angled Pocket Only - Starting at the upper right hand corner, stitch at 1/2" seam allowance down the right side, around the bottom, and up the left side, pivoting at each corner and backstitching at the beginning and end.
Rounded Pocket Only - Stitch at 1/2" seam allowance on the upper left and right sides for the distance of the folded down band backstitching to secure.
Rounded Pocket Only - Starting and stopping below the band and using a basting or gather stitch length, stitch around the sides and bottom of the rounded pocket in 1/2" seam allowance. Slightly pull on the top thread to "gather" the bottom rounded section of the pocket. This will help turn in the seam allowance smoothly.
Step 4 - Clip the top corners and turn the folded edge right side out. Fold in the seam allowance at the stitching line. Give it a good press.
Step 5 - Topstitch along the bottom folded edge of the band to secure as shown in the picture.
Step 6 - Now it is time the attach the pockets to the front of your Landers. Like I mentioned before, the best time to do this is when you are basting the side seams for fit. I recommend pinning them on where you think they should go first. This is personal preference and takes some trial and error, but just to give you a ball park, mine were about 3 inches from center front and 2 inches from the top raw edge of my Lander fronts. Once they are pinned on, baste the sides seams of your Landers and try them on. Adjust the position of your pockets as necessary.
Step 7 - Once you are happy with the placement, pin them to secure. Pay extra attention to measuring their placement so they are equal from center front and the top. The fly can make them look unbalanced so you really have to trust your ruler for this step. Rip out the basting on the sides seams of your Landers and topstitch the sides and bottom of the patch pockets on. Do this before you sew up your sides in it's final stitch length.
That is it! Sew up your Landers according to the normal instructions and you are good to go.