March 8, 2019

After sewing up hundreds of Hudson pants since it’s release, I have come up with a couple of alternative methods for sewing up the waistband / drawstring which make for a faster sew. This method works for all versions of the Hudson patterns, although I find it especially helpful for the kids Hudson pant pattern and here is why. I love the look of a drawstring for finishing the pant, but it is not very functional for a child, especially those who are on the younger side. Not only do those draw strings get pulled out and lost, but they can be a real struggle for those who cannot tie bows yet, but need to use the bathroom by themselves at school. So, instead of doing a full drawstring as the instructions suggest, I have come up with these two quick methods that give me the look I want without the headache of the actual drawstring.

Method 1 – This method is as simple as sewing up the pants as normal but omitting the buttonholes. I still like to do the stretch topstitching on the waistband for the look and also to keep the elastic from twisting in the wash, but that is optional. This method is especially good for those who are scared of sewing buttonholes. Once you have the pants prepped you also want to take a small piece of drawstring, tie a bow to the size you want, and finish the ends of the drawstring so that they don’t unravel.

Now it’s as simple as centering the bow on center front and then sewing back and forth on either side of the knot. If you are using a matching thread you won’t even be able to see the stitching and no one will know that it is a faux drawstring. Make sure that you are sewing through all parts of the bow on the sides of the middle knot to make sure it doesn’t untie.

That is it for method 1. This is honestly what I use the most for my kids Hudsons because it’s easy and gets the job done.

Method 2 – If you want to take it a step further and are not scared of buttonholes, you may want to try method 2. It’s a bit more involved than method 1 but still easy and creates the look of the drawstring without the ability for it to get pulled out.

You are going to sew up your Hudsons just like the pattern suggests including sewing and opening your buttonholes.

Then you will need to two separate pieces of drawstring with one end of each finished. The raw ends will be inserted into the buttonholes.

Take each raw end and insert into each buttonhole by about 1/2″. The 1/2″ should be pointing away from center front, inside of the waistband. Stitch back and forth several times, just to the outside of the buttonhole, catching the 1/2″ in the stitching the secure.

It should look like the drawstring is in the entire waistband, while actually it is only in the front.

Tie the two drawstring pieces into a bow and you are good to go!

I hope you found these two methods helpful for the next time you sew up some Hudsons!



December 7, 2018

Welcome to the last day of the Salida Skirt Sewalong. Thank you so much for following along. Let me know if you have any questions.


Step 35 – Starting at center back, edgestitch the entire waistband at 1/8” from the finished edge, pivoting at corners.

Step 36 – Zip up the skirt and mark the position for the waistband hook and eye. Hand sew onto the waistband as shown. Make sure that you only sew through the inside layer on the outer part of the hook and eye. I usually sew this one on first since it is more tricky.

For the smaller, inside part of the hook and eye, feel free go through all layers since it won’t be show on the inside waistband.

VIEW A ONLY (For View B, skip to Step 38)

Step 37 – All done except for the hem! Fold the bottom raw edge of the skirt up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press.

Fold up again by 3/4”. Pin and press.

To secure the hem, stitch close to the fold.



Step 38 – Fold the bottom raw edge of the middie skirt up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press. Fold up again by 1/4”. Pin and press. To secure the hem, stitch close to the fold.


Congrats! You are finished!



December 6, 2018

Today is the day when Heather and I finally announce the winners of the Sew Frosting Challenge.

First, let me say that you blew us away with your talent, effort, and love for sewing things that are simply fabulous. You made the decision so hard. I hope that even if you didn’t win, you enjoyed participating and sewing something that pushed you a bit out of your comfort zone. I know that for me, this was an important few months for to really reflect on why I sew and what brings me the most joy to create. I already have ideas for what I want to create next year.

And here are the winners:

Unconventional Fabric/Material: Keira (@islandsewcialist)

You have to check out Keira’s blog post all about how she embroidered this jacket with upcycled trash! She is a true artist and she was a clear winner for this challenge.

She won : $100 gift certificate to The Fabric Store, $100 gift certificate to Stone Mountain & Daughter, $75 gift certificate to Oak Fabrics,  a bundle of 3 naturally dyed silks from A Verb for Keeping Warm, 3 meters of vegan bamboo silk from Ray Stitch


Oona Ballona Award: Katie (@katiekortmanart)

Just like the amazing Oona, Katie rocks the color. She is also a fine artist which really brought her project to the next level. Not only is this dress fabulous on it’s own, but she hand painted the fabric! I love her confidence and how it shines in this dress.

She won : $100 gift certificate to The Fabric Store, $100 gift certificate to Imagine Gnats, $75 gift certificate to Fancy Tiger Crafts,$50 gift certificate to The Confident Stitch, 3 meters of vegan bamboo silk from Ray Stitch,  3 yards of this gorgeous botanical silk print from Bolt in Portland


Couture Award : Elora (@eloraroseledger)

Elora really brought out her couture skills with this gorgeous rose ball gown. Not only is it gorgeous from the outside, but the structure of the dress is is amazing too. One day I want the skills (and patience) of Elora.

She won : $100 gift certificate to The Fabric Store, $100 gift certificate to Blackbird Fabrics, $75 gift certificate to Style Maker Fabrics, 3 patterns of your choice from By Hand London, 3 meters of vegan bamboo silk from Ray Stitch


We also had three prize packs by random choice. The winners of those are:

Community Prize Pack #1: @vreed8657

A collection of gorgeous notions and supplies from Stitch Sew Shop, £30 gift certificate to The Fabric Godmother, $100 gift certificate to the True Bias shop, 3 meters of vegan bamboo silk from Ray Stitch

Community Prize Pack #2: @sewhotmommi

£30 gift certificate to Backstitch Fabrics, $100 gift certificate to Coset Case Patterns shop, 3 meters of vegan bamboo silk from Ray Stitch, $50 gift certificate for Drygoods Design

Community Prize Pack #3: @mydiscowardrobe

3 yards of holiday fabric from La Mercerie, $50 gift certificate for Drygoods Design, $75 gift certificate to Promenade Fabrics, $50 gift certificate and Japanese hand sewing needles from Josephine’s Drygoods


Thank you so much for all the excitement and participation in this contest. I hope you are as inspired by the winners as we are.



December 6, 2018

Welcome back for day 4 of the Salida Skirt Sewalong where we tackle the sideseams and the waistband. We even get to try on our skirt and make some adjustments today. Lets get started.

Step 26 – (All Views) Staystitch the upper edges of the front and back skirt panels at ⅜” seam allowance. This is going to stabilize the slightly curved seam of the waist so that when you try it on and make adjustments, you can be sure that your waistband will fit. Unzip the front skirt first so that you do not stitch over the center front zipper opening. Otherwise you will not be able to unzip the skirt to try it on.

Step 27 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back skirt at the side seams, matching notches and aligning raw edges. Baste. Try on the skirt to check the fit. The top of the skirt should fit right up against the body and hit at the natural waist. If it does not sit at the natural waist then your straight waistband will not fit snuggly on your body. Adjust as necessary at the top of the skirt. Be careful not to fit the hips too tight or the pocket opening will begin to pull.


Step 28 – After making any fit changes, sew the front to the back skirt with a regular stitch length. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. Just like you have done for other portions of the skirt, press the seam allowances towards the skirt back. Topstitch the skirt back 1/8” from the seamlines, catching the seam allowance underneath. There is a lot of fabric at the point, so go slow and make sure that you are not catching any other parts of your skirt in your stitching.

Step 29 – To help the pocket openings lie flat when the skirt is worn, sew 1 1/2” directly on top of the pocket topstitching through all front layers, as pictured.

Step 30 – Press the unnotched long edge of the waistband up by 3/8”, with wrong sides touching.

With right sides touching, pin the notched side of the waistband to the top of the skirt. The notches on the waistband will match up with the center back notches on the skirt so pin these first and then pin around towards the front.

The ends should extend past the center front edges of the skirt by 1” or more. This is intentional to give you some wiggle room with fitting your skirt, and you will trim the ends later.

Step 31 – Starting at the left center front edge, stitch around the waistband, stopping at the end of the right extension.

Grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Different weights of fabric will require more or less trimming. The idea is to make sure you can easily sew through all layers.

Press the waistband and seam allowances up and away from the skirt.

Make sure that the tops of the zipper and waistband line up. If not sew to adjust.

Step 32 – Take the folded edge of the waistband and fold it to the outside, with right sides touching.

Overlap the folded edge past the waistband seam by about 1/16”. Pin.

You can see here on the inside how it slightly overlaps the seam.

Stitch the center front edge at 1/2” seam allowance so that the line of stitching is flush with the finished edge of the fly.


Trim the ends of the waistband to 1/2” past the front opening edges of the skirt.

Clip corners and grade seam allowance as shown. Repeat for right side.

Step 33 – Turn the waistband right side out.

On the inside, make sure the folded lower edge of the waistband self facing covers the seamline by about 1/16”. Pin in place.

Press the waistband so you get a nice squared edge at each center front corner. Zip up the zipper and check to make sure the upper edges of the right and left fronts align.

Step 34 – On the outside, stitch in the ditch by carefully sewing along the seamline, catching the edge of the folded waistband self facing on the inside of the skirt.

It will looks something like this on the inside (although maybe yours will look even neater). If there are a few small places where the inside didn’t catch, don’t worry. We will be topstitching the waistband tomorrow so that will help to secure it.

Thank you for following along today. Come back tomorrow and we will quickly make sure finishing touches and wrap the sewalong up.



December 5, 2018

Welcome back for day 3 of the Salida Sewalong. Today we will be assembling our pockets and also sewing up the back of the skirt. Lets get started.


Step 19 – With right sides touching, pin the pocket lining pieces to the skirt front along the short curved edges.

Sew the pocket opening edge.

Trim and clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. This will help the curve of the pocket to lay flat and not pull.

Step 20 – Turn the pocket linings to the inside, cheating the linings slightly toward the inside so they are not visible from the outside of the skirt.

Topstitch the skirt along pocket opening edges ¼” from the finished edge.

Step 21 – Pull the pocket lining away from the skirt. Pin the pocket to the pocket lining along the curved edge, right sides touching and matching notches. You will only be pinning the pockets together (keeping the front skirt out of the pinning).

Stitch the long curved edge, keeping the skirt free from the line of stitching as you sew. Finish the seam allowance along the curved edge in your desired manner.

Pull the pocket back towards the inside of the skirt. Pin the upper and side edges of the pocket to the skirt, matching notches and making sure everything lays nicely.

To secure, baste along top and side edges, 3/8” from raw edge. Set aside the skirt front for now.

VIEW A ONLY: (For View B, skip to Step 25)

Step 22 – Fold the inner edge of each back skirt self facing (where the slit will be) to the inside by 1/4” and press.

Fold in again by 1/4”. Pin and press. To secure, stitch close to the fold. (Sorry I forgot to snap a pic of the stitching.)

Step 23 – With right sides touching, pin the back skirt panels together along the center back. (Leave the slit portion free for now.)

Stitch from the upper edge to the dot. Pivot at the dot to stitch across the upper end of the back slit self facing.

Here is a close up.

Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. It can feel a little awkward to finish the angled area at the top of the slit, but just do your best.

Baste (temporary long stitch length with no backstitching) the slit closed from the dot down to the bottom raw edge of the skirt. This is going to help you line up the slit correctly. If it helps, you may want to draw a line straight down first to use as a stitching guideline.

Step 24 – Press the center back seam allowance and the self facings for the slit toward the left back skirt (when wearing), as shown below.

Baste along the upper end of the back skirt self facing through all layers to secure the back slit to one side. This will also serve as a guideline for the topstitching.

Starting at the top of the yoke, topstitch down the left back skirt to the slit, pivoting to stitch on top of the basting. Backstitch to secure.

Remove all basting stitches if visible, including the ones closing the slit from step 23.

That is it for View A for today.

View B Only

Step 25 – With right sides touching, pin the back skirt panels together along the center back, aligning raw edges, matching up notches, and making sure that the yoke seams align. Stitch the center back seam from top to bottom. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. Press the seam allowances towards the left skirt back. Topstitch the left skirt back 1/8” from the seamline (from top to bottom), catching the seam allowance underneath. (Sorry I don’t have pics of this, but it is just the same as View A above, without the slit.)


That is it for today. See you back here tomorrow.