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ROSCOE SEWALONG DAY 1 – NECK SLIT AND FACING

October 19, 2015

I am so excited for the first day of our Roscoe Blouse and Dress sewalong. Hopefully by now you have printed and assembled your pattern. If you need any help with the printing and taping process check out my post here from a prior sewalong. The same link will also walk you through lengthening and shortening your pattern. The Roscoe, like all of my patterns are drafted for someone who is 5’5″. You will want to adjust your pattern if you are taller or shorter than this. I am 5’3″ so I shorten the sleeves and blouse of Views A or B by 1″ (since I figure that only half of my body would only be half of the difference). If I am sewing view C, the long dress, then I shorten the sleeves by 1″ and the dress by 2″.

Before you start, make sure that you mark all notches as well as the cutting line on the neckline facing. Now we are ready to start. The steps will be numbered and will correspond to the numbers in the pattern instructions.

Step 1 – Align the right side of your neckline facing with the right side of your front piece, matching center front notches. You really want to make sure that the neckline facing is on straight so that you don’t end up with a crooked neck slit. If you don’t have a visible grain or print to follow you can always fold your center front piece in half and lightly press the fold so that you can line up the facing properly. Pin in multiple places like you see below.

 

Step 2 – Reduce your stitch length to 1.5mm (or about 17 stitches per inch).

Starting at 1/4” seam allowance, stitch down one side of the cutting line marked on the facing piece, reducing the seam allowance as you go, until you are at 1/16” at the bottom. Pivot and stitch just below the bottom of the line for 2 stitches. Pivot and stitch back up the other side in the same manner as the first. It’s hard to see, but if you look closely you should be able to see my stitching.

Cut down along the cutting line marking until you are close to, but not through the bottom stitches. Snip carefully into the corners (if necessary). Return your stitch length back to normal before you forget.

 

Step 3 – Pull the facing through the opening you just created so that it’s on the wrong side of your front piece.

Press. Make sure that the seam is cheated slightly to the inside of your garment so that you don’t see it on the right side of your garment. You also want to make sure that you don’t have any puckering at the bottom of the slit. You want everything lying flat.

Trim down both sides and the bottom of the facing so that it is 5/8” on each side.

 

Step 4 – Turn under the side edges first, until they reach the stitching. Turn under the bottom in the same way. Press and pin in place.

Starting at the top, edgestitch around the outside folded edge of the facing. When you reach the corners, leave your needle in the fabric, pivot, and stitch in the other direction. Press. This is what it should look like on the right side of your fabric once you are done.

 

That’s it for today. Not too bad right? Tomorrow we will start sewing pieces together.

 

OTHER

THE ROSCOE SEWALONG SCHEDULE & INSPIRATION

October 6, 2015

There is going to be a sewalong for the Roscoe Blouse and Dress from Monday October 19th through Friday October 23rd. The schedule will be as follows.

Monday October 19th – Neck Slit and Facing

Tuesday October 20th – Sleeves and Sideseams

Wednesday October 21st – Neckties and Neckline

Thursday October 22nd – Sleeve Binding

Friday October 23rd – Ruffle and Hemming

 

To help you with ideas for your own Roscoe blouse or dress I am also going to share some inspiration today of similar styles in ready-to-wear clothing right now.

 

View A – Blouse

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5

View B – Mini Dress / Tunic

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5

View C – Mid-Calf Dress

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5

I hope that helps you with some ideas. I will be back in a few days with some fabric inspiration and links to help as well.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

ROSCOE DRESS BEACH COVERUP

March 21, 2018

 

 

I have been wanting to use the Roscoe Dress sewing pattern to make a swim coverup for a long time. I decided to make it happen for Roscoe Month and found this perfect cotton/nylon crochet fabric from the Fabric Store. I love that it has the see through, floral look that you find with lace in general, but this feels a bit more casual and everyday because it’s cotton and geometric. I noticed that they have a few other colors as well – white, maroon, and cobalt blue.

 

 

 

 

For the purposes of this photoshoot, I layered the dress over a black Ogden cami that I lengthened into a slip dress. I think I will wear it this way quite a bit actually and I love that I can wear it for everyday or over a swimsuit for traveling.

 

 

Because of the fabric being crochet and having holes in it, I made a few changes. For the parts of the dress that need more fine tuned sewing, I used a black rayon fabric instead of the lace fabric for those areas such as the neckband, neck ties, and neck facing. For the hem and ruffle I also played around with the fabric. I knew that the hem would be tricky so I turned my pattern pieces and cut the hem along the selvage so I wouldn’t actually have the hem it. I also sewed the raw edges of the ruffle on the outside of the fabric instead of the inside. I like the way that ended up looking. Because lace generally doesn’t fray, this is a perfect time to use the seam allowance as a design detail.

 

 

Just a reminder that the Roscoe is on sale thru the end of the month with the code ROSCOEMONTH. I have three more versions of the Roscoe to show you before the end of the month so be prepared for that.

DIY MAKES PATTERNMAKING SEWING TUTORIALS

ROSCOE – OFF THE SHOULDER HACK

April 27, 2016

 

With all of the off the shoulder love everywhere in ready to wear right now, I realized that the Roscoe Blouse and Dress is the perfect pattern the easily hack for this look. With just a few changes you get an easy to wear boho / beachy dress or blouse and it takes just a couple of hours to sew up.

Can I just say how much I love this new trend? It’s pretty friendly to those of us who want to hide some problem areas like the tummy or hips. And yet it’s still super sexy and natural. I’m a big fan. So much easier to pull off than the crop top trend of the last couple of years. I really think that almost anyone can pull this look off.

Materials:

  • Roscoe pattern pieces 1, 2, and 3
  •  1 ” elastic
  • fabric (I’m using rayon challis)
  • matching thread
  • safety pin

 

First you will need to print off pattern pieces front, back and sleeve (you won’t need any of the the others unless you want to add a ruffle or bind up the bottom of the armhole). I printed off the dress length, but you can also trim at the line for blouse length if that is what you are making.

Next, take your front piece and make a mark about 4 inches down at Center Front. Go lower or higher depending on your preferences, but remember that there will be a 1 ” elastic casing above this marking.

Make another marking about 1″ above this one, but on the armhole. Make the marking perpindicular to the armhole curve.

Connect this marking to the CF marking, curving naturally between the two. This will be your cutting line for the front of your dress or blouse.

Put your sleeve pattern piece on top of your dress front pattern piece, lining up the armhole notches. Transfer the point where your cutting line on the front piece hits the armhole, to your sleeve pattern piece at the same point.

Draw the line out, perpindicular to the armhole, for about an inch. Curve the line naturally until you can go straight across (perpindicular to the grainline) until you are close to the back armhole of the sleeve and then curve up a bit so it is perpindicular to the back armhole curve. It should look something like this. It will be the cutting line for your sleeves.

Put the sleeve pattern piece on top of your back dress pattern piece. Line the back armhole of the sleeve up with the back armhole of the back dress (matching notches) and transfer the marking of the line you just made to the armhole of the back dress.

Draw the cutting line of the back dress to CB like you did the others. (Draw out for about an inch perpindicular to the armhole and then straight across to Center Back.)

Now, cut all of the tops off of your pattern pieces along the cutting lines you just drew.

Draw a stitching line 1/2″ below the cutting line on all pieces.

Measure all stitching lines and add them up. Multiply this number by 2 and then subtract  3″ for seam allowances. (Mine was about 58″.)

Take this number and cut a piece of fabric that is that width and 3 1/4″ tall.

Cut out your dress front, dress back, and sleeves as well.

Sew your dress up much like the regular roscoe by first sewing each sleeve armhole to the matching front or back armhole. Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.

Now sew up sides of the sleeves and dress (or blouse) starting at each sleeve end and ending at the bottom of the dress or blouse. Finish the seam allowances in your desired manner.

Sew the two small ends of your long skinny pieces together, right sides touching. So it makes a long loop.

Press the loop in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together.

Pin the raw edges of your loop to top of your dress, right sides touching. Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance. Leave a 2 inch section unstitched at center back (to insert the elastic).

Wrap your elastic around your shoulders to get an idea of how long your want it. Add some extra length and cut. Using a safety pin, insert the elastic into the loop and all around so that it enters and exits at the opening at CB. Pin the ends together and try on. Adjust the length of the elastic until it’s snug enough to stay up, but still comfy. My experience is that you want it on the looser side. Your arms and chest will keep it up. If it’s tight it will inch up all day which can be annoying.

Sew the two ends together of your elastic, insert it back into the casing, and stitch the opening at CB closed. Finish the seam allowances of your elastic casing in your desired manner.

Check the length of your dress or blouse and also the length of your sleeves. I ended up cutting a few inches off of the length of the sleeves to hit at my elbow for a different look. Trim as necessary and finish in your favorite way.  I am going to simply serge the edges and fold it up at 1″ and then stitch.

You may want to Stitch through all layers of the elastic and elastic casing at CB and maybe a couple of other places to keep the elastic from flipping around with wear.

Give the whole thing a final press and you are done!

Let me know if you guys have any questions. I can’t wait to wear this out and about.

OTHER

ROSCOE FABRIC INSPIRATION

October 12, 2015

I love looking through all of the fabric options and dreaming up the endless versions of the item I am making. And since it’s not possible to for me to make all of the amazing versions, I might as well share them with you 🙂 Seriously though, I feel like more and more fabric companies are providing options for apparel sewers and it makes me so happy. I found so many good options for the Roscoe pattern and I am excited to share them with with you in preparation for the sewalong starting next week.

The Roscoe blouse and dress sewing pattern calls for lightweight, woven fabrics with movement such as cotton voile, rayon challis, crepe de chine, lightweight linen, and gauze. I have separated my recommendations between crepes, rayons, and cottons/linens for brevity, but really you can use any fabric you choose that has movement and drape to it.

 

Crepe 

Crepe is a light, soft fabric characterized by a slightly textured surface. There are a lot of fibers that can make up a crepe fabric including polyester and rayon, but my preferred choice when I want a nice item of clothing is always a silk crepe de chine. If you are not ready to spend the money on silk, there are lots of cheaper options that still give great results. Crepes tend to be opaque and yet still very flattering and drapey which is why they work so well for projects like this one.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9

 

Rayon

I love sewing with rayons, especially rayon challis, because it is very affordable, easy to find, presses well, and is still lightweight and flattering. The biggest downfall to 100% rayon fabric in my opinion is that it can be very wrinkly. It’s best used on a project like a dress so that the length of the dress will weigh it down and prevent wrinkles. If you are not ready for the slipperiness of a silk, but are ready to graduate from cottons, I highly recommend trying out some rayon.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9

 

Linen and Cotton

It’s hard to go wrong with simple lightweight linens and cottons such as voile, lawn, gauze and lace. I am dreaming of making up a version of the Roscoe once it’s warm again in a white gauzy lace for the beach. These fabrics will have a bit more structure than the rayons or silks which may cause them to hold the shape of the garment away from the body a bit more, so be aware of this when making your choice.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9

I hope that these fabrics help you find the perfect fabric and get you excited for the Roscoe Blouse and Dress sewalong starting on Monday October 19th. Let me know if you have any questions.