Welcome back to day four of the Yari Jumpsuit Sewalong. Today we are going to finish the sleeves for both the sleeveless version and the extended sleeve version. Let’s start with the sleeveless version.
Sleeveless Views A & C (For views B and D skip ahead to step 31.)
Step 26 – Go ahead and get your bias tape out. I am using store bought packaged tape although feel free to make some from your scraps. I will say that I think that store bought bias tape is a little easier to use for beginners because the creases are even and the stiffness of the tape really helps you to turn it easily to the inside without it peeking out. I do think this is a fun way to add a pop of color or print to your jumpsuit so don’t be shy to use something a little different.
If you have make my Southport Dress pattern you will notice that I am using the same method here. Once you have done it a few times you won’t even need to pin. But for the purposes of the sewalong I am going to be thorough.
Open out one folded edge of your bias tape. Starting at the underarm seam, with about 1” of bias tape overlapping towards the back, pin the long, open edge of your bias tape to the right side of the armhole, aligning the raw edges so they are even.
When you get to the underarm seam again, pin the bias tape to the end you started with, so that it fits snugly against the armhole, right sides touching, and mark the point where they meet up with chalk or a pen. Trim the excess bias tape so that there is about 1” of tape on either end past your marking.
Step 27 – Unpin the bias tape just a couple of inches to the front and back of the underarm seam and pull the bias tape away from the jumpsuit. Unfold the bias tape and stitch it together along your marking. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4” and press open.
Step 28 – Re-pin the bias tape to the armhole of the jumpsuit and stitch around the entire armhole at 1/4” seam allowance.
Step 29 – Press the bias tape toward the armhole over the seam allowance. (Tip: It’s best to press this edge on a curved surface such as a tailor’s ham or a rolled up towel to support the curve of the armhole.)
Understitch through the bias tape and seam allowance 1/8” from seam.
Step 30 – Continue to turn the bias facing to the wrong side of the jumpsuit while rolling the seam slightly to the inside. Using a curved surface such as a tailor’s ham, press and pin in place.
Starting and ending at the underarm seam, edgestitch the folded edge of the bias tape to the jumpsuit.
That’s it for the sleeves of Views A and C.
Sleeved Views B & D Only
Step 31 – With right sides touching, fold each sleeve band in half so that the two small ends match up. Stitch. Press seam allowance open.
Fold each sleeve band in half, so that the two long sides meet, with wrong sides together. Press. If you want to be extra careful, you can baste the raw edges together here.
Step 32 – With the jumpsuit right side out, pin the raw edges of the sleeve band to the sleeve opening, matching underarm seam to side seam. Stitch. Trim seam allowance to 1/4”. Finish seam allowance in your desired manner.
Press the seam allowance towards the jumpsuit and the band away.
Step 33 – Topstitch the jumpsuit 1/8” from the sleeve band seam, catching the seam allowance in the line of stitching underneath.
Optional: Fold the outside folded edge toward the jumpsuit so that is covers the stitch line by about 1/4″. Press. Hand tack or stitch in the ditch for a few stitches at the underarm and shoulder seams to keep the cuff in place.
That’s all. Tomorrow we will finish everything up with buttons and hems!