February 19, 2018

Welcome to day 1 of the Nikko Top and Dress Sewalong. Today we will be sewing up the shoulders and also attaching the neckband. These steps are for all views. Before starting you need to decide how you will be sewing up your garment. For the steps today I will be using a serger, but you could just as easily use a stretch stitch or an elongated zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine. If using an elongated stretch stitch, I recommend the settings of 2.5 length and 1 width, but you should practice on your fabric to see what works best for you. Also, be sure to use a ballpoint needle to protect your fabric from damage.


Step 1 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the shoulder seams.

To prevent the shoulder seams from stretching, cut two pieces of 1/4” (6 mm) clear elastic to the length of each shoulder seam. If you can’t find clear elastic you can use regular elastic or even selvage in a pinch. This is important in stretchy fabrics to not only protect the shoulder seams from stretching out over time, but also to make sure it doesn’t stretch when sewing it. If you cut the pieces to the correct length before sewing, you know that you have not stretched out the seam during construction.

Align the long edge of the elastic with the shoulder seam (centered over the stitching line, not the raw edge), pinning to secure. With the elastic facing up, sew the shoulder seams through all layers using a stretch stitch. (NOTE: the elastic should be caught in the seam.) Do not stretch the elastic as you sew the seam. Press seam allowances towards the back of the garment.


Step 2 – With right sides touching, sew the short ends of the neckband together along the center back seam.

Press seam allowances open if on your regular machine, or to one side if you are serging like me. With wrong sides touching, fold the neckband in half, aligning the raw edges, and matching up the center back seam. Press. If you want to you can baste the bottom together at this point to make attaching the neckband to the top a bit easier. I usually don’t though.


Step 3 Divide the neckband into quarters by first placing pins at center front and center back along the lower raw edge. I know it is hard to see my pins because they are white, but if you look closely you should be able to make them out.

Then fold the neckband in half by bringing the center front pin to the center back seam and pin. Place a pin at each fold along the lower raw edge. Your neckband should now be divided into four equal sections along the bottom.


Step 4 – Using the same technique from step 3, divide the garment neckline into quarters. First, place pins at center front and center back.

Then bring center front to match up with center back, and place pins at the folds. Because the front neckline is longer than the back neckline, these pins should land about 1/2″ away from the shoulder seam inside of the front neckline.


Step 5 – With the garment still inside out, insert the neckband into the neck opening so that the right sides of the neckband and garment are touching. Line up the quarter pin markings of the neckband with those of the neckline, being extra careful that the center back, center front, and side markings are all coordinating. Note that the neckband is slightly smaller than the garment neckline so it will pull a bit. Feel free to add in extra pins to make it easier to sew in the next step.


Step 6 – Sew the neckline seam using a stretch stitch or a serger, stretching the slightly smaller neckband evenly between matchpoints to fit into the garment neckline. It is very important that this stitch has good stretch so that it can fit over your head.

Press the neckband up and the seam allowances down towards the garment.

And that is it for today! Easy right? I feel like sewing a turtleneck is like sewing up a tshirt without the hard neckline. Tomorrow we will tackle side seams and armbands for the sleeveless version.



February 16, 2018

I know that when a new pattern releases that it’s always fun to see the garment on different types of bodies. So this time around I decided to put together a little roundup of a few of my testers in their Nikkos. I love and appreciate my testers so much! They always do an amazing job and I couldn’t do it without them. You can click on their names to take you to their blogs or instagram so that you can follow them and see more of their amazing makes. These ladies rock.

Heidi of Handmade Frenzy


Tiffany Lano 


Teri of Fa Sew La


Heather of Heather Handmade


Meg of Cookin and Craftin


Star of Well Fibre


Jen of Desert Blooms


Helen of Helen’s Closet


Bonnie of Bonnie and Blithe


Sara of The Sara Project


That is it for now. The sewalong for the Nikko starts on Monday. I hope you will join us!




February 15, 2018

With the Nikko Sewalong next week, I wanted to go ahead and talk with fabric and notions with you guys. The Nikko top and dress recommends knit fabrics with about 75% stretch. Obviously there is a bit of wiggle room there, but I have to warn you that if you go down too much in stretch percentage you will not be able to get it over your head. Also it may feel too tight on your neck. I know this from experience. So really try and get a fabric with lots of stretch and good recovery.

Some examples of good fabrics are rib knits, sweater knits, bamboo jersey, and stretch velvet. But these are just recommendations. If you find another great fabric with appropriate stretch then go for it. I know that I am on the look out for a stretch mesh or stretch lace that I could then layer over a tank.

In my opinion you can get away with a thinner fabric for Views A and B (the tops), while I prefer a thicker fabric for Views C and D (the dresses). So that is how I am going to break up the recommendations.


Views A and B : For the top view of this pattern, I love a light weight bamboo jersey or baby rib knit that will be great to layer under jackets and cardigans without too bulk. I have also had great results with the brushed poly knits as they have great recovery and that really nice peachskin finish that I love. If you do choose a thicker knit and are sewing the sleeveless version, consider choosing a thinner knit for the armhole facings so that you do not get too much bulk in that area.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16


Views C and D : Since the dress version of this pattern is head to toe, I do prefer a thicker knit for a bit more coverage. The dress views are less tight however, than the top views on the waist and hips so don’t worry about it being too body conscious. My favorite knits to use for Views C and D are medium weight rib knits and stretchy sweater knits. The ribbing allows for so much stretch and recovery while still having the thickness and coverage that I want.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16


In addition to your fabric, you are going to want to gather a few notions. You are going to want some all purpose thread, a ball point sewing needle for your machine, and some clear elastic to stabilize your shoulder seams. You might also want to get some fusible knit tape for hemming (this is what I use) and a double needle if that is how you want to finish your hem.

I will not be going over assembling your pattern or cutting out your fabric so go ahead and get that done this weekend so that we can begin sewing on Monday. If you need some help with the printing and cutting process, check out this post from my last sewalong.

I think that is it! If you still need to purchase the Nikko pattern you can do so here.



February 14, 2018

It is Valentines Day, so I thought it would be fun to sew up some new cute pjs for the occasion. I’ve been wanting to try out the Ogden cami as a pj top for a long time and so this seemed like the perfect excuse. I just needed to locate a cute bottom that I could pair it with.

After doing some digging around I decided to try out the Lexi boxers from Evie la Luve. Knowing that Hannah has a whole line of lingerie sewing patterns, I was pretty sure that the Lexi boxers would be the right style and I was right. They were cut and sewn within an hour and turned out great. I realized after cutting them out that I was supposed to cut them on the bias. Ooops. But luckily the fit was still good. I opted to omit the lace trim which did make the hemming a bit more tedious, but nothing crazy and I also did not add the buttons or bow to center front. They are short, but in the perfectly appropriate for night time kind of way.

I sewed these pjs up in the petals fabric from Workroom Social that I had leftover. The fabric is so great. Nice drape, but still not see through, and compared to my other rayon fabrics, this one hardly wrinkles at all. I have some black sandwashed rayon set aside for another pair once I get the time. And this time I won’t forget to cut the shorts on the bias.



February 12, 2018


I am so excited to share this super simple and super fun hack for the Lander pant pattern with you today. The best part about this hack is that you can add it to your existing Landers for one look and remove the straps to wear them as the original pants when you prefer.

The fabric for these Landers is from the Fabric Store in LA. It’s a navy twill that is just the perfect weight and structure for these pants. I am almost always drawn to black fabric, but for these pants I absolutely love changing it up to navy. It has more of that 70s vibe that I am into right now. I am wearing the Landers with a Nikko (view B) in a cream baby rib knit from JoAnns.

I don’t have step by step photos as this is so simple, but I will talk you through how I did it.

First I cut four long strips of fabric and interfaced each one so they wouldn’t stretch out. I wanted the finished suspenders to each be 35.5″ long and 1.5″ wide, so with seam allowance each strip was 36.5″ long and 2.5″ wide. This is of coarse personal preference. You will need to decide how long you want yours. I recommend sewing it longer than you think because you can always shorten them.

With right sides touching, sew two strips together leaving an opening to turn it right side out. Trim corners, and turn right side out. Repeat for second suspender.

Give it a good press making sure that all corners are sharp. Edgestitch around the outside of each suspender, closing up the opening you left at the same time.

With your finished Landers on, pin your suspenders so that they attach in the front and back where you want them to. I decided to have my front ones hit at the top of the pockets. In the back I crossed them and had them end about 3 inches out from center back on each side.

Now you need to sew buttonholes in each end of your suspenders and then hand sew the coordinating buttons to the inside waistband in the four spots your chose. Make sure that you don’t sew through your entire waistband or you will see the stitching on the outside. One tip I have is to choose very flat buttons so that you do not feel them on your waist when wearing it.

And that is it. Super simple and fun. I wore this outfit to a baby shower on Sunday and could not have felt more chic. You can find the Lander sewing pattern here and the Nikko pattern here. I hope you give it a try!