SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 5 – BUTTONS / BUTTONHOLES / HEMS

June 8, 2018

Today we are going to wrap everything up as I walk you through buttonholes, buttons and hems. I know that buttonholes really intimidate a lot of people, but I always try to remind everyone that the buttonholes are covered by the buttons so they do not need to be perfect. Try some scrap buttonholes first to make sure that you have your settings right and then just go for it. For those who want an alternative method, you could always try snaps if buttonholes are just not your thing.

 

All Views

Step 34 – First, find your buttonhole guide provided with your pattern pieces. You are going to line this up on top of the right center front and mark the buttonholes. If you are using a different size button than suggested, but sure to adjust the length of your buttonholes. Also keep in mind any alterations that you made to the length of your pattern pieces and adjust accordingly. You want the buttonholes to be spaced evenly along the length of the center front. I usually use a disappearing pen, but use whatever marking tool you prefer.

 

Once you sew your buttonholes I like to add fray check to the front and back of each buttonhole and let it dry. This really keeps it from unraveling and also stiffens the buttonhole to make it less fiddly when opening it.

Now open each buttonhole. Use whatever method you prefer, but I highly recommend getting a buttonhole opener. It makes the process much smoother.

Line the right front up over the left front so that everything is flat and even. Insert your marking tool into the opened buttonhole to mark your button placement.

Sew on your buttons by machine or hand.

 

Step 35 – Fold the bottom raw edge of the pant-length or short-length jumpsuit up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press.

For the short-length jumpsuit, fold up by another 1”. For the pants, fold up by another 3/4”. Pin and press.

Stitch close to fold to secure.

Congrats! You are finished. Make sure to tag your jumpsuit with #yarijumpsuit and #truebiaspatterns on instagram so that I can see them.

SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 4 – ARMHOLE FINISHES

June 7, 2018

Welcome back to day four of the Yari Jumpsuit Sewalong. Today we are going to finish the sleeves for both the sleeveless version and the extended sleeve version. Let’s start with the sleeveless version.

 

Sleeveless Views A & C (For views B and D skip ahead to step 31.)

Step 26 – Go ahead and get your bias tape out. I am using store bought packaged tape although feel free to make some from your scraps. I will say that I think that store bought bias tape is a little easier to use for beginners because the creases are even and the stiffness of the tape really helps you to turn it easily to the inside without it peeking out. I do think this is a fun way to add a pop of color or print to your jumpsuit so don’t be shy to use something a little different.

If you have make my Southport Dress pattern you will notice that I am using the same method here. Once you have done it a few times you won’t even need to pin. But for the purposes of the sewalong I am going to be thorough.

Open out one folded edge of your bias tape. Starting at the underarm seam, with about 1” of bias tape overlapping towards the back, pin the long, open edge of your bias tape to the right side of the armhole, aligning the raw edges so they are even.

When you get to the underarm seam again, pin the bias tape to the end you started with, so that it fits snugly against the armhole, right sides touching, and mark the point where they meet up with chalk or a pen. Trim the excess bias tape so that there is about 1” of tape on either end past your marking.

 

Step 27 – Unpin the bias tape just a couple of inches to the front and back of the underarm seam and pull the bias tape away from the jumpsuit. Unfold the bias tape and stitch it together along your marking. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4” and press open.

 

Step 28 – Re-pin the bias tape to the armhole of the jumpsuit and stitch around the entire armhole at 1/4” seam allowance.

 

Step 29 – Press the bias tape toward the armhole over the seam allowance. (Tip: It’s best to press this edge on a curved surface such as a tailor’s ham or a rolled up towel to support the curve of the armhole.)

Understitch through the bias tape and seam allowance 1/8” from seam.

 

Step 30 – Continue to turn the bias facing to the wrong side of the jumpsuit while rolling the seam slightly to the inside. Using a curved surface such as a tailor’s ham, press and pin in place.

Starting and ending at the underarm seam, edgestitch the folded edge of the bias tape to the jumpsuit.

That’s it for the sleeves of Views A and C.

 

Sleeved Views B & D Only

Step 31 – With right sides touching, fold each sleeve band in half so that the two small ends match up. Stitch. Press seam allowance open.

Fold each sleeve band in half, so that the two long sides meet, with wrong sides together. Press. If you want to be extra careful, you can baste the raw edges together here.

 

Step 32 – With the jumpsuit right side out, pin the raw edges of the sleeve band to the sleeve opening, matching underarm seam to side seam. Stitch. Trim seam allowance to 1/4”. Finish seam allowance in your desired manner.

Press the seam allowance towards the jumpsuit and the band away.

 

Step 33 – Topstitch the jumpsuit 1/8” from the sleeve band seam, catching the seam allowance in the line of stitching underneath.

Optional: Fold the outside folded edge toward the jumpsuit so that is covers the stitch line by about 1/4″. Press. Hand tack or stitch in the ditch for a few stitches at the underarm and shoulder seams to keep the cuff in place.

That’s all. Tomorrow we will finish everything up with buttons and hems!

SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 3 – NECK FACING / SIDE SEAMS / CROTCH

June 6, 2018

By the end of today you will have one jumpsuit sewn together. The next two days are just finishing touches. The facing can get a little fiddly, but if you go slow and be patient, I promise you can do it.

 

Step 17 – With right sides touching, pin the assembled neck facing to the neck edge of the jumpsuit, aligning inner raw edges and matching shoulder seams. Starting at one dot, stitch around the entire neckline, pivoting at corners, and finishing at the other dot. Backstitch at both ends to secure.

Here is a close up of the dot where you stop. Make sure that you backstitch sell here.

Be sure that at each corner, leave your needle down, pivot, and keep stitching to create a sharp angle.

 

Step 18 – Clip seam allowance at an angle, close to but not through the seam allowances at the dot. Repeat for other side.

 

Step 19 – Clip and angles so that they can turn sharply.

Grade the neck facing seam allowance so that it creates less bulk.

Clip the curved edges around the neck to help it create a smooth finish once turned and pressed.

 

Step 20 – To help the facing stay tucked neatly to the inside of the garment, press the seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch where possible by stitching through the facing and seam allowance about 1/8″ into the facing. You won’t be able to stitch into all of the angles. I start about 2” above the bottom angle and understitch to about 2” below the top angle. Start again about 2” above the top angle, stitch around the front and back curved necklines and continue down the other side in the same manner.

 

Step 21 – Turn the facing to the inside, making sure that the lower ends are sharply turned out at the clip.

Tuck the seam allowance along the bottom end up into the facing, as shown in the picture. Press.

before

after

 

Step 22 – Hand tack or stitch in the ditch through all layers along the center back and shoulder seams to secure the facing and prevent it from rolling to the outside when worn.

 

Step 23 – With right sides touching, pin the fronts together along the crotch from the inner leg edge up to the dot. Double check that your jumpsuit is lined up correctly and not twisted before moving forward.

Starting at the bottom of the crotch, stitch, making sure to get close to, but not stitch through the facing and dot. Backstitch securely here as it is a stress point. Trim seam allowance to 1/4″ and finish in your desired manner. Press to one side.

 

Step 24 – With the fronts facing right side up, lap the right front over the left. Pin in place.

To secure, edgestitch through all layers from the folded edge to the dot, backstitching well at both ends.

 

Step 25 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the inner leg edges and the side seams, aligning raw edges and notches. Stitch the crotch in one continuous line of stitching from hem to hem. Trim to 1/4″ and finish seam allowances in your desired manner.

Stitch side seams from underarm down to hem. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. Press the seam allowances open or towards the back.

SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 2 – ASSEMBLING THE FRONT / BACK / SHOULDER

June 5, 2018

Today is going to be a pretty short day compared to yesterday. I goal is to get all of the fronts, backs, and sides attached into one big piece. All of the steps today work for all views. I am sewing the sleeved, short length jumpsuit for reference. Lets get started.

 

Step 13 (All Views) – With right sides touching, pin the side edge of the center front to the side front, matching notches.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance.  You are securing the edges of the pockets and the optional ties at this point so be extra careful that these are lined up correctly before sewing over them. Trim seam allowances to 1/4″ and finish in your desired manner. I am serging. Serging is nice because you can trim the seam allowance and finish the edges in one long swoop, but using pinking shears or zigzagging is fine too.

Press seam allowances towards the center front.

Topstitch the center front 1/8” from the seam line on the right side of your jumpsuit, catching the seam allowance underneath.

 

Step 14 – Repeat step 13 for the center back and side back.

 

Step 15 – With right sides touching, pin the two assembled back pieces together along the center back. Stitch the center back seam. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. If your fabric is on the sturdier side, you may want to clip the curved area a bit to prevent any pulling. I find, however, that trimming to 1/4″ is sufficient in most medium to light weight fabrics.

Press seam open or to one side if you serged like I did.

 

Step 16 – With right sides touching, pin the front and back shoulder seams together.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish seam allowanced in your desired manner and press seam allowances open or towards the back if serged.

 

That’s it for today! See you back here tomorrow.

 

SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 1 – FACINGS / POCKETS / D RINGS

June 4, 2018

Welcome to day 1 of the Yari Jumpsuit Sewalong. I am so excited to get started. I hope you have your pattern assembled and your fabric cut out and ready to go. Make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. Also, mark the dots for the D-ring ties on the front side and back side pieces if you are sewing that option.

 

Step 1 – Fuse your interfacing to the wrong side of the front neck facing, the back neck facing, and 1/4” down from the upper edge of the pocket pieces as shown below.

Here is a close up of where you are placing the interfacing for the pocket edge.

 

Step 2 – Staystitch the neckline on the center front and center back pieces at 3/8” seam allowance from the top edge towards the bottom.  I know that a lot of people skip staystitching, but it really does make a difference. I have found that if I don’t staystitch the front next edge it will bag out and be hard to attach to the facing. If your fabric has a looser weave you might even staystitch the neck facing edges although I generally find that the interfacing is sufficient in a medium weight woven fabric.

Here is a closeup since it’s hard to see.

For sleeveless views A & C, also staystitch the armholes on the side front and side back pieces at a scant 1/4” seam allowance from the top of the armhole down.

 

Step 3 With right sides touching, pin and sew the shoulder seams of the front and back neck facings at 1/2″.

You can finish the seam allowance here in your desired manner, although it will not be exposed so it’s not necessary. I decided to skip it here. Press seams open or towards the back (if serging the seam allowance).

 

Step 4 – Finish the outside edge of your assembled neck facing in your desired manner. I am serging it to keep it simple. You do not need to finish the bottom or inside edges. Set the facing aside for now.

 

Step 5 – Fold the top edge of one pocket down,wrong sides touching, by 1/4″ and press. This is along the top edge of the fused interfacing.

Fold again, wrong sides touching, at 7/8”, and press. This along the bottom edge of the fused interfacing.

Edgestitch, the lower folded edge and the top edge. I stitch at about 1/8″ from the folded edges, but the distance is up to you. I just recommend being consistent as there is a lot of topstitching in this pattern and you want it to match.

Here is a closeup of the back.

Here is a closeup of the front.

For the pant version (views C and D), fold the bottom edge of the pocket up by 1/2”, wrong sides touching, and press. Repeat step 5 with remaining pocket.

 

Step 6 – With right sides facing up, pin the pocket to the side front panel, matching notches, with raw edges even. For the short version, the bottom raw edge of the pocket will line up with the bottom of the side front panel.

For the pant version, the pocket will align with the middle set of notches. Pin in place. Edgestitch along the bottom folded edge of the pocket for the pant version.

For all views, baste along the side edges at 1/4” to secure.

Optional D-Ring Ties (If you are not adding the ties, you are done for today and can skip ahead to step 13 tomorrow.)

Step 7 – With right sides touching, fold each front and back tie piece in half lengthwise. Pin and stitch the long edge at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim seam allowance to 1/4”.

 

Step 8 – Turn ties right side out using a loop turner or safety pin.

Press and Edgestitch along both long edges.

 

Step 9 – Fold in one raw edge of each shorter tie by 1/4” and press. Fold again by 1/2” and press.

Insert two D rings and insert them into the loop created by the fold and pin. Edgestitch along the fold to secure the D rings into the tie. It is sometimes easiest to move your needle over so that you can stitch close to the edge but also keep the D rings far enough from the presserfoot.

 

Step 10 – Fold one raw edge of each longer tie in by 1/4”, and then again by 3/8”.

Stitch along the folded edge to secure.

 

Step 11 – Pin one back (longer) tie to the right side of each side back, centering the raw end over the dot so the raw edges match up. Baste to secure. (The wrong side of the tie should be facing up.)

 

Step 12 – Pin one front tie (tie with the D rings) to the right side of each side front piece, centering the raw end over the dot so the raw edges match up. Baste to secure. (The right side of the tie should be facing up.)

That is it for today! Check back in tomorrow for the next steps.