PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LANDER PANT & SHORT – NEW SEWING PATTERN

September 7, 2017

I am so excited to finally show you all my newest pattern – the Lander Pant and Short. This pattern is high-waisted, with an exposed button fly, and 3 lengths. It has front and back patch pockets, belt loops, and a straight fit through the legs. View A is a short with a 4” inseam, View B is an ankle length pant, and View C is a boot length pant that can be worn with heels. Β It has a difficulty rating of 3.5 out of 5, but with the sewalong coming in just a couple of weeks I am certain that any confident sewist could handle it.

The idea for this pattern came from my favorite thrifted boy scout shorts that I wore all through high school. Since I no longer have them I decided I needed to recreate them to my best memory. This pattern is everything good I remember from the shorts – high waisted 70’s vibe, brass buttons, large patch pockets, but updated to be a bit more modern and flattering. I have been wearing them all summer and they are so versatile. They were perfect for our summer vacation to Yellowstone where I wanted to be comfy and practical, but not sloppy. They are equally great with a heel or wedge for a more sleek, going out look.

The Landers are drafted for woven fabrics with little to no stretch. I made most of my samples in the Robert Kaufman Ventana twill, but any medium to heavyweight woven fabric will do. My testers made them in linen, denim, twill, and corduroy, all with great results. Just keep in mind your machine and how it will deal with multiple layers of heavy fabric when choosing the best fabric for your version. I will be back next week with more fabric recommendations, and tips on notions.

Being our most advanced pattern to date, we will definitely be doing a sewalong. The official sewalong starts on Monday, Sept. 18th so start gathering your supplies now.

You can find the pdf (digital) version of this pattern in the shop here. Use the code LANDERLAUNCH for 20% off of the pdf pattern from now through Sunday night.

If you prefer the paper pattern you can preorder it here (along with 3 other patterns being produced into paper patterns). We are expecting it to be shipped out sometime within the next 6-8 weeks.

SEWING

KALLE SHIRTDRESS IN LINEN

June 26, 2017

I was quick to order and sew up the new Kalle shirtdress pattern by Closet Case Patterns. I had seen a glimpse of the pattern last year and couldn’t wait for it to be released. It’s such a fun and modern take on a classic shirtdress.

I actually have already sewn it up once in the tunic length and I wear it all of the time. Hopefully I can that one blogger sometime soon as well.

The fabric is a perfect medium weight linen from the Fabric Store. It’s their military green color, although they have a lot of really great colors right now that I have my eye on. I actually have some of their black linen in my stash as well that I plan to make into something fun. It does wrinkle, as per all linen, but I don’t mind that at all. In fact these photos are after wearing the dress all day so not so bad.

The only change that I made to the dress is to shorten it. I shortened by 1.5″ which feels about right. It does get a little short on the sides sometimes, but I wouldn’t alter it because I like the cool shape that the side curve makes.

And that’s it. I love this dress! It’s cool in the hot weather, easy to throw on, but just put together enough to not feel at all sloppy.

SEWING FOR KIDS TUTORIALS

EMERSON PANT HACK

June 13, 2017

As much as I love the Emerson pattern as shorts and crop pants, it works really great as a full length pant as well. And with just a few easy hacks it’s really simple to do. The best part of it is that when my daughter gets too tall for these I can just hem them into the original length of crop pants or shorts to get more wear out of them. The pants above are just a simple wide length pant, which my daughter loves. I used a zebra print crepe fabric that you can find here. It’s a fun print and the fact that the fabric has great drape really works well for the wide leg style.

And the pants above are more of a genie style by adding elastic to the ankle. I think they turned out really fun in this denim chambray, although I think next time I will try them in something softer for a more subtle affect.

You are going to need to cut your pant leg pattern pieces longer than the original crop pants. For my daughter I added about 8 inches which included the 1 inch for the elastic, 1/4″ for turn under, and 1/4″ for wiggle room. (So that’s 1 1/2″ for the elastic casing and 6 1/2″ for length.

For both styles, after sewing up the pattern as instruction except for the hem, you are going to turn your pants inside out. Press the bottom up by 1/4″

Now press the whole thing up by about 1 1/4″. If you are making the wide leg pant them just stitch along the fold now to finish the hem. If making the genie version, leave a 2 inch opening to insert the elastic.

If you are doing the genie pant, cut two pieces of elastic to the length desired (wrap it around your child’s ankle and add some for overlap and easy). Attach a safely pin to one end and insert the elastic through the opening.

Sew the two ends of the elastic together, stitch up the opening and you are done!

Your pants should look something like these. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

 

SEWING

DANIELLE DUNGAREES AND RUMI TANKS

May 23, 2017

I have been wanting a pair of black overalls for awhile now. When Republique du Chiffon released the Danielle Dungaree pattern I knew this was the perfect pair to make up for myself. Luckily for me, they had an english version available in a printed pattern. I had a hard time locating a copy in the US, so I ended up ordering one straight for Republique du Chiffon in France. It was honestly pretty affordable and only took a week or two to get to me which was much better than I had expected. In fact, I am obsessed with their new Gaston Trouser pattern and will be buying a pattern as soon as they have an english version available.

I particularly wanted this overall pattern because of a combination of the skinny leg, waistband, and unique bib shape. I felt that those details, combined with a black material help the overalls feel a bit more sophisticated and less juvenile.

I did make a few changes to the pattern. First of all I thinned out the leg below the thigh quite a bit to make it more skinny and then added a little cuff at the bottom. I also had to shorten the torso by quite a bit to make the bib and crotch hit me at the right place. I cut 3/4″ off of the bottom of the bib and then 1 1/2″ off of the top of the trouser section before attaching both to the waistband.

The fabric for the overalls is a cotton lycra from The Fabric Store in LA. I chose it because it isn’t too thick and doesn’t have a sheen to it. I like the natural texture to it. It has the slightest bit of stretch that really helps with fit and comfort. It really was the perfect fabric for this project. I had the hardest time finding buckles but ended up getting some vintage ones on etsy. I love that they are more of a brass instead of the silver ones I could find here.

Although I am still working on how to exactly style these, I decided to make up a few Rumi Tanks to pair them with. I am wearing the gray one in the photos, but you can also see the striped and camo green versions below. All three three lightweight jersey fabrics are also from The Fabric Store. They are the perfect weight for tops – soft and lightweight without being sheer. I love this pattern so much. Easy to sew and a great sporty shape. I want to make the dress version next.

I am pretty sure that you are going to be seeing a lot of these overalls during the rest of Me Made May. I love them so much. I want to make another pair but as shorts too.

 

SEWING

LODO SEWALONG DAY 5

April 28, 2017

Thank you everyone for following along with the Lodo Dress Sewalong. I am so excited with the way that my dresses turned out.

For View A – the longer, midcalf version, I used a black and white striped ponte knit that I picked up at some point in NYC. It’s a really nice ponte that sewed up great and I am so excited to wear it all summer long.

 

View B – the shorter version, is sewn up in a maroon cotton interlock that I bought at Colorado Fabrics a few weeks ago. It’s the perfect amount of stable knit but also soft and more casual like a thicker tshirt fabric.

 

If you guys participated in the sewalong I would love to see your versions of the Lodo Dress. Make sure you tag your photos with #lododress and @truebias so that I see them.