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BODY CON MIDDI NIKKO DRESS TUTORIAL

September 28, 2018

 

The original Nikko pattern includes pattern pieces for a top (with or without sleeves) that is fitted, and a dress that is straighter through the waist and hips. I wanted to combine the two for a Nikko dress that is more body con like the top is. It’s a very easy hack so I thought I would share.

First of all you will use the top pattern pieces instead of the dress one since it has the more fitted waistline. I decided to use the sleeved version, but this would just as easily work for the sleeveless one. The only pattern pieces that you will be adjusting is the front and back. The neckband and also the sleeves or sleeve facings stay the same.

All you are going to do is lengthen the center front and center back straight down as those are cut on the fold. For the side seams you want to gradually angle it in about an inch so that it is fitted at mid calf. How long you extend it is up to you, but I would say somewhere between 20-30 inches from the original hem.

Once you have cut and sewn the Nikko according the the instructions, I find it really helpful to try the dress on inside out and mark any areas that I want to pull in a bit and make adjustments. I then hemmed it using fusible knit tape like the pattern suggests. Because the pattern calls for really stretchy knits you don’t actually need a slit at the hem, just make sure that you use a very forgiving stretch stitch to finish it.

Let’s talk a bit about fabric. I used a thick ribknit from The Fabric Store for this. I think that the thickness really is key to a body con dress so that it has more coverage. Rib knits are especially good for this. They kind of hide any lines or bumps that you may not want to draw attention to.

That’s it! Super easy hack for a fun dress. Can’t wait to wear it for date night.

TUTORIALS

RIT DYING FOR LANDERS

September 5, 2018

I’ve had a hard time finding the exact color of non stretch denim that I wanted for some Lander pants, so I decided to give fabric dying a go. I went with RIT because it was easy to find and inexpensive. Honestly I had no idea or confidence in how this was going to go, so I didn’t want to invest too much. For fabric, I went with my tried and true bull denim in natural. White would work as well, but since I knew that I wanted a darker color in the end, I figured the natural was more likely to get me there.

I did two separate dye batches. I scoured the RIT website which has a great section on color formulas and went with potter’s clay as my first batch.

I bought the three colors it asked for – tangerine, apple green, and scarlet and got to work.

Essentially I just followed the directions on the bottle and on the website. I added salt which was recommended and used this paper towel to test the color before adding my fabric. One thing that made a more successful product this time (compared to past attempts) was getting a large enough bucket so there was a lot of movement, and also stirring a lot for the first 10 minutes.

I let it soak for a few hours with occasional stirring because I knew that I wanted a deep color.

The end result is this beautiful deep rust color that I love so much. I would say that it is a little more red than the intended hue, but it is still such a gorgeous color that I can’t be upset.

Next up, I wanted a true camel brown. It’s my favorite color to wear with a simple black turtleneck in the fall so I knew I needed to make it. I looked again at the RIT color formulas and landed on caramel.

I bought the golden yellow and cocoa brown dyes and used the same natural colored bull denim.

I used the same process as before and ended up with a perfect medium camel color.

All in all a big success. The only change I might make next time is to add a small amount of black to my dye to get a darker hue.

I can’t wait to make up a couple of Lander pants with these for the fall and winter which is fast approaching.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

YARI JUMPSUIT – WIDE LEG HACK

July 3, 2018

I have been meaning to show you guys this super easy Yari Jumpsuit hack for awhile now and I am so glad that I finally did because it’s one of my fav. things in my wardrobe. I have been seeing this oversized, easy to wear, wide leg jumpsuit all over ready to wear recently so I hope you guys are excited about it as I am.

This hack can be done with the sleeved or sleeveless versions and you can of coarse you the D rings if you want, but to really get the same look that I have been seeing in stores, you want to do the sleeveless, no ring option.

I decided to go with a black linen rayon blend that I had in my stash which worked great, but I think I am going to make another one soon with lighterweight rayon or crepe for one with more movement.

To adjust the pattern pieces I am going to be adjusting all four main pattern pieces along the legs. You won’t be messing with the inner sides of the pattern pieces that are straight and create the princess seam down the front and back as these lines are already parallel to the grainline. Instead you will be adjusting the curved outer lines only, making them parallel to the grainline as well. It’s that simple. The only trick is to make sure that you adjust the front and back side pieces from the same point and the front and back inner pieces from the same point so that they match up when you are sewing them together.

Let’s start with the outer front piece. Starting at the hip, right before it starts to curve in for the tapered leg, simply draw a line straight down, parallel to the grainline. I find that right about the hip notch is perfect to start. Now continue the hem line out to meet this new outer leg line. That’s it!

 

Repeat what you just did for the side back, being sure to mimic the line you made on the outer front piece so that they match up when sewn.

 

Now you are going to do the same thing with the center front piece at the crotch. There is some wiggle room here, but essentially I start about 2 inches down from the top of the crotch and begin to gradually make the line straight and parallel to the grainline. If you want the pants a bit wider, start closer to the crotch.

 

Repeat for the center back piece, starting the line at the same place you did for the center front so that it matches up when sewn.

 

 

That’s it! Sew the pattern up according to the directions. I chose to crop these a bit by taking 2 inches off of the hem and then turning up another 2 inches for a wider looking hem, but hem length is up to you.

 

 

Let me know if you have any questions! I am pretty obsessed with this simple hack.

If you would like to purchase the Yari pattern you can do so here and here.

 

SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER INSIDE POCKET TUTORIAL

April 27, 2018

Today I want to share a simple hack for the Lander Pants and Shorts where you can flip the pockets to the inside instead of the patch pocket which comes standard with the pattern. And one great thing is that you can do it using the same pattern pieces. You use either the standard button front pattern like I did or the zipper expansion pack.

Cut all pattern pieces out as normal except for the Front Pant / Short and Front Pocket and Lining.

Place your Front Pocket pattern piece on top of your Front Pant / Short pattern piece, lining up the notches.

Trace the curve of the Front Pocket onto the Front Pant / Short.

Cut out two lining pieces using the standard Front Pocket pattern piece.

Trim the Front Pant / Short pattern piece along the curved marking that you made.

Tape the top piece to the Front Pocket pattern piece.

Cut out two of this altered Front Pocket pattern from your main fabric.

Cut out two Front Pant / Shorts with your new Front pattern piece.

Fuse the pocket fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the lining.

With right sides touching, pin and sew the curved edge of the Front Pant / Short to the Pocket Lining.

Trim seam allowance and clip / notch.

Flip the lining to the inside along the curved edge and press. Make sure the the lining is cheated slightly towards the inside so that it is not visible when worn.

Topstitch at 1/4″ from the curved edge.

Pin the right side of the Front Pocket piece (cut out of the main fabric) to the right side of the Pocket Lining along the two straight edges. Make sure the you are not pining it to the Front Pant / Short.

Stitch the two straight edges and finish seam allowances in your desired manner.

The pocket should be assembled, but still free from the Front Pant / Short except for the curved edge.

Pin and baste all layers along the top and side edges. That’s it, assemble the rest of your Landers according the the instructions.

Both the light wash denim and the heart cotton print for the lining are from the Fabric Store. The denim is the perfect vintage wash that I have been looking for and since it is about 11oz and non stretch, it was a great match for the Landers.

Here I am wearing my new pants. Admittedly I made them a tad too tight which is why I am standing so awkward. Hopefully I will fit into them at some point because I LOVE them. I am wearing them here with a sleeveless Nikko Top sewn up in rib knit from IndieSew.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

MAXI LENGTH ROSCOE HACK

March 28, 2018

I have been wanting to create this hack every since I saw a similar ready-to-wear one last summer. It’s pretty much the boho Roscoe dress of my dreams. I don’t really know where I am actually going to wear it. It’s a statement piece for sure, but I am excited to figure that out.

This is a pretty straight forward hack. I knew that there was going to be a lot of volume by the time I added an extra ruffle, so I decided to go down two sizes for a bit slimmer fit in the top. I am petite so I didn’t want it to overwhelm me. The Roscoe has a lot of ease in it. Even two sizes down, I still have plenty of room.

I also lengthened the sleeves. I loved how it worked for my Roscoe blouse earlier in the month so I thought I would try it again. All I did was lengthen the sleeves by 4-5 inches, straightened the bottom, and added an elastic casing. I like it be about 1 inch longer than my wrist to give a bit of billowing.

Other than that, the only change I made was to add an extra ruffle to the bottom of View C. I made sure to cut the bottom ruffle wider than the first ruffle so that it could be gathered onto the first one. I didn’t worry too much about the ruffles being the same length, I just added it and then hemmed the last ruffle once I was all done. I made sure to hem it short enough that I could wear this dress with heels or flat sandals to dress it down a bit.

I used two coordinating rayon crepe prints that I bought in a bundle off of etsy. It has a black background with cinnamon colored geometric shapes. I love how using the two different prints really highlighted the design lines. It would be fun to make it again with different stripes and also play with the direction of the stripes.

That’s it. Really easy hack with dramatic results. This might just be my new favorite dress. Secret pajamas for sure.

Just reminder that Roscoe Month is almost over. Use the code ROSCOEMONTH for a discount on both the pdf and paper versions of this pattern through the end of March.