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ROSCOE MONTH VERSION ONE

March 6, 2018

 

March is Roscoe Month at True Bias. This means that I have 5 versions of the Roscoe pattern to share with you throughout the month, and both the pdf and paper versions of the pattern are 20% off with the code ROSCOEMONTH through the end of March.

This first Roscoe that I made up is this rayon crepe blouse that I am in love with. I made a few hacks to the pattern this time. First of all I lengthened the sleeves to be wrist length instead of 3/4. Since I didn’t want to worry about a sleeve placket, I simply exchanged the sleeve casing for a an elastic casing. I lengthened the whole sleeve about 4 inches and then straightened the bottom to make creating the elastic casing easier. I folded it 1/4″ and then 1/2″, stitching it leaving an opening for the elastic. Then I measured the elastic that would be comfortable at my wrist, fed it through the channel and sewed the ends together. Then I sewed up the opening that I had left. I love the drama of the full sleeve.

The other change that I made to this blouse, compared to the original pattern, is the hem. The original pattern has an easy straight hem. I thought I would play with it a bit so I cut a shirttail style hem where the front and back are longer and the sides are shorter. Because the shirt is so full it’s hard to tell, but I do think the end result it nice. It makes it a little more fluttery with the different lengths.

The fabric for this blouse is rayon crepe from my stash that I originally sourced from The Fabric Store. I have some black rayon crepe from them as well that I am hoping to make into a Roscoe Dress. I love rayon crepe. It has the easy wash and wear capabilities of rayon challis, but the crepe falls a bit heavier for a more dramatic look. It hugs your curves a bit more which is especially great on a full style like this one. I also love sewing up my Southport pattern in rayon crepe in the maxi length because it moves so beautifully when you walk.

That is it for now. I have more Roscoes  in the works that I can’t wait to show you guys.

SEWING

NIKKO SEWALONG DAY 3 – VIEWS B & D SIDESEAMS AND SLEEVES

February 21, 2018

Today we are going to sew up the side seams and the sleeves for Views B and D (the sleeved versions) of the Nikko Top and Dress.

Step 12 – With right sides touching, pin one sleeve to the coordinating armhole edge of the garment, matching notches. First match the top shoulder notch of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the garment.

Next match up the front and back sleeve and armhole notches. It’s hard to photograph since it gets all scrunched up in this step, but you get the idea. If you are an experienced sewist you should be able to sew it up with just these pins, but if you are more beginner feel free to add more pins in for guidance.

Sew using a stretch stitch or serge like I did. Press seam allowances towards the sleeve. Repeat for other sleeve.

 

Step 13 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at sides, continuing to pin sleeve underarm edges together. Make sure the lower edges of the garment and sleeve align, and that the underarm seams match up.

For View B (top), stitch from the wrist to the hem in one continuous seam. This can be done on a serger or stretch stitch on your regular machine. If using a stretch stitch press seam open. If serging like I did, press seam allowance to the back of the garment.

For View D (dress), sew from the wrist down to the large dot in one continuous seam and backstitch at the dot. Be sure to stitch straight down to the dot at the slit and not follow the curve at that point. Press seam allowances open. (Note that for View D, this step must be done on a sewing machine and not a serger to accommodate the slit. If you want to finish the raw edges on a serger, finish the front and back edges separately and then sew together with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. I chose to just leave them raw.)

 

Step 14 – Now it’s time to finish the sleeves by hemming them. This is where I like to use some sort of fusible knit tape to stabilize the seam before stitching. Since the fabric used on this pattern has so much stretch, I often get wavy seams. My tape of choice is the HeatnBond Soft Stretch because it’s easy to find, but I am sure there are other similar products or tricks out there for hemming slinky knits. You can see the clear tape on the bottom of my top here.

Turn the lower edge of each sleeve up by 1” (2.5cm). Pin and press.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from each folded sleeve hem to secure. With this pattern, I have found that I like to use a double needle for thinner fabrics like this bamboo jersey because you see the stitching. For thicker fabrics like sweater knits or rib knits I prefer a regular zigzag stitch (2 length and 3 width) because the stitching disappears into the thickness of the fabric.

That’s it for today! Tomorrow we will finish up with hemming and side slits.

SEWING

NIKKO TESTER ROUNDUP

February 16, 2018

I know that when a new pattern releases that it’s always fun to see the garment on different types of bodies. So this time around I decided to put together a little roundup of a few of my testers in their Nikkos. I love and appreciate my testers so much! They always do an amazing job and I couldn’t do it without them. You can click on their names to take you to their blogs or instagram so that you can follow them and see more of their amazing makes. These ladies rock.

Heidi of Handmade Frenzy

 

Tiffany Lano 

 

Teri of Fa Sew La

 

Heather of Heather Handmade

 

Meg of Cookin and Craftin

 

Star of Well Fibre

 

Jen of Desert Blooms

 

Helen of Helen’s Closet

 

Bonnie of Bonnie and Blithe

 

Sara of The Sara Project

 

That is it for now. The sewalong for the Nikko starts on Monday. I hope you will join us!

 

MAKES SEWING

VALENTINES OGDEN / LEXI PJS

February 14, 2018

It is Valentines Day, so I thought it would be fun to sew up some new cute pjs for the occasion. I’ve been wanting to try out the Ogden cami as a pj top for a long time and so this seemed like the perfect excuse. I just needed to locate a cute bottom that I could pair it with.

After doing some digging around I decided to try out the Lexi boxers from Evie la Luve. Knowing that Hannah has a whole line of lingerie sewing patterns, I was pretty sure that the Lexi boxers would be the right style and I was right. They were cut and sewn within an hour and turned out great. I realized after cutting them out that I was supposed to cut them on the bias. Ooops. But luckily the fit was still good. I opted to omit the lace trim which did make the hemming a bit more tedious, but nothing crazy and I also did not add the buttons or bow to center front. They are short, but in the perfectly appropriate for night time kind of way.

I sewed these pjs up in the petals fabric from Workroom Social that I had leftover. The fabric is so great. Nice drape, but still not see through, and compared to my other rayon fabrics, this one hardly wrinkles at all. I have some black sandwashed rayon set aside for another pair once I get the time. And this time I won’t forget to cut the shorts on the bias.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER SUSPENDER HACK

February 12, 2018

 

I am so excited to share this super simple and super fun hack for the Lander pant pattern with you today. The best part about this hack is that you can add it to your existing Landers for one look and remove the straps to wear them as the original pants when you prefer.

The fabric for these Landers is from the Fabric Store in LA. It’s a navy twill that is just the perfect weight and structure for these pants. I am almost always drawn to black fabric, but for these pants I absolutely love changing it up to navy. It has more of that 70s vibe that I am into right now. I am wearing the Landers with a Nikko (view B) in a cream baby rib knit from JoAnns.

I don’t have step by step photos as this is so simple, but I will talk you through how I did it.

First I cut four long strips of fabric and interfaced each one so they wouldn’t stretch out. I wanted the finished suspenders to each be 35.5″ long and 1.5″ wide, so with seam allowance each strip was 36.5″ long and 2.5″ wide. This is of coarse personal preference. You will need to decide how long you want yours. I recommend sewing it longer than you think because you can always shorten them.

With right sides touching, sew two strips together leaving an opening to turn it right side out. Trim corners, and turn right side out. Repeat for second suspender.

Give it a good press making sure that all corners are sharp. Edgestitch around the outside of each suspender, closing up the opening you left at the same time.

With your finished Landers on, pin your suspenders so that they attach in the front and back where you want them to. I decided to have my front ones hit at the top of the pockets. In the back I crossed them and had them end about 3 inches out from center back on each side.

Now you need to sew buttonholes in each end of your suspenders and then hand sew the coordinating buttons to the inside waistband in the four spots your chose. Make sure that you don’t sew through your entire waistband or you will see the stitching on the outside. One tip I have is to choose very flat buttons so that you do not feel them on your waist when wearing it.

And that is it. Super simple and fun. I wore this outfit to a baby shower on Sunday and could not have felt more chic. You can find the Lander sewing pattern here and the Nikko pattern here. I hope you give it a try!