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SEWALONG SEWING

SALIDA SEWALONG DAY 1 – ASSEMBLING FRONT AND BACK PANELS (STEPS 1-5)

December 3, 2018

I am super excited to be starting the Salida Skirt Sewalong today. By the end of today’s post we will have the front and back panels assembled and be ready to insert the zipper tomorrow.

You should already have your fabric cut out and ready to start sewing, but just for reference, here are the fabrics that I am using for the sewalong. My main fabric is a brown bull denim. I also have some floral cotton voile that I am using to line my pockets and some medium weight fusible interfacing.

For notions I am using coordinating all purpose thread, a jeans weight sewing machine needle (use a weight that coordinates best with the weight of your fabric) , a hand sewing needle, a skirt hook and eye, and a zipper. I have designed this pattern in a way that will not require you to shorten your zipper (one of my least favorite things). Instead, use the zipper length that coordinates with your size in the instructions. I am using a blue zipper for this tutorial so that it will be easier to see in the photos. I recommend trying to find a zipper closer to the color of your main fabric.

Please note that the following illustrations depict View A (fitted skirt). Unless noted, all instructions are applicable to both views.

Step 1 – Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. To keep it easy, I use a disappearing pen and mark on the wrong side of the fabric pieces.

This includes the guideline on the front yoke,

the dots and guidelines on the front center pieces,

and the dots on the back center pieces for View A only (these are for the slit).

Next, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and the upper edge of the pocket bag pieces.

Step 2 – With right sides touching, pin one front center panel to the coordinating front side panel, matching notches.

Sew the seam. Trim seam allowance to ¼”, and finish in your desired manner. I find that the easiest way to do this is to serge because I can also trim it down at the same time. This is the method I will be using for the sewalong, but feel free to use pinking shears or a ziz zag stitch to finish your seams if you prefer. These options will work great.

Press the finished seam allowance towards the front side panel. On the right side, topstitch the front side skirt ⅛” from the seam, catching the seam allowance underneath.

Step 3 – With right sides touching, pin the corresponding front yoke to the assembled front skirt panel, matching notches. These are opposite curves so it can feel a little awkward. Just do your best, knowing that you can adjust it as you go. The most important thing is to make sure that the two ends are sewn at the correct angle.

Sew the seam.

Clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. This will help the yoke curve nicely around your body without any pulling.

Trim the seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press up towards the front yoke.

Topstitch ⅛” from the seam on the front yoke, catching the seam allowance underneath. Repeat steps 2-3 for other front skirt pieces.

You can set the front panels aside for now. We are going to be sewing up the back panels in the same manner that you assembled the fronts. ( I have included less photos for the backs as I did for the fronts so that it is not redundant. If you need extra help, refer to the photos for the fronts.)

Step 4 – With right sides touching, pin one back center panel to its corresponding back side panel, matching notches. Sew the seam. Trim seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press towards the back side panel. On the right side, topstitch on the back side skirt ⅛” from seam.

Step 5 – With right sides touching, pin the corresponding back yoke to the assembled back skirt panel, matching notches. Sew the seam. Clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. Trim the seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press up towards the back yoke. Topstitch inside the back yoke, ⅛” from seam, catching the seam allowance underneath. Repeat steps 4-5 for remaining back skirt pieces. Set aside the assembled skirt back panels for now.

That is it for today. Here is the Salida Skirt Sewalong schedule for the remainder of the week.

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 2 – Sewing the Zipper (Steps 6 – 18)

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 3 – Pockets and Back Assembly (Steps 19 – 25)

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 4 – Sideseams and Waistband (Steps 26 – 34)

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 5 – Topsitiching, Hems, and Hook & Eye (Steps 35 – 38)

 

Thank you for following along! You can find the Salida Skirt sewing pattern  in both paper and digital format here.

MAKES SEWING

SILK SUKI FOR SEW FROSTING

November 28, 2018

I  bought this silk crepe fabric over a year ago specifically to make a Suki kimono and I am so glad that I finally did. I am obsessed with it. It’s everything I hoped for and feels so luxurious to wear when I am getting ready in the morning. I am a big fan of robes so this is my third to make so far. All three get tons of wear.

 The fabric is a paneled watercolor floral of in silk crepe de chine that I bought at Mood. The edges were black so I was able to use those bits of fabric for the neck band, ties and sleeve cuffs. I really like how that helps the cool design details to pop. It also gives a more modern edge to the floral fabric.

 I really loved sewing this pattern. It was just challenging enough to keep it interesting and feel like I was learning new things, but easy enough to stay stay enjoyable. The instructions are great and I love the small design elements like the neck band detail which help this pattern to stand out.

I keep thinking about how great this would be as a holiday gift for someone special. Although I might not sew it in silk again because I’m not sure how this will wash. I think a rayon or voile would be perfect for my next one.

OTHER SEWALONG SEWING

INTRODUCING THE SALIDA SKIRT SEWING PATTERN

November 19, 2018

I am so excited to show you guys what has been consuming my life over the past few months – the Salida skirt. This pattern was designed specifically as a fall / winter companion to the Nikko top (my goto this time of year). It has a high waist, front zipper, V-shaped front and back yokes, and contoured shaping through the hips and legs. It comes in two views. View A tapers to the knee and has a back slit for easy walking, while view B is flared and midcalf length.

I know that zippers can feel a little intimidating to beginner sewists, but don’t worry, I have you covered. I have filmed a video that will walk you step by step through the zipper portion of the instructions. You can access that video here. There will also be a full photographed sewalong on the blog the week of December 3rd if you would like to follow along with that.

 

Another thing that I am excited about with the Salida Skirt pattern is that I have introduced layers PDF files in case you would like to only print the size or sizes that you will be sewing. The instructions will help guide you through using the layers if you choose to do so.

 

 

You can get the Salida skirt as both a paper and pdf pattern through my shop here. You can also get 25% off both of these options through this Wednesday with the code SALIDALAUNCH.

I hope you love this pattern as much as I do. Please let me know if you have any questions.

 

SEWING

SEW FROSTING CHALLENGE

October 10, 2018

Last week I had a rant on Instagram video that you may have caught (if not you can still find it in my highlights). It started with a leopard print fabric that I wanted to make a jumpsuit out of. I knew it was a little out there and that I might not wear it, but I desperately wanted to try. This turned into a poll (where you guys were overwhelmingly in support of the leopard) and then into me thinking about how my process has evolved over the years and how reluctant I have become to take risks with my sewing. I use to make a lot of statement pieces and less basics. Less practical, perhaps, but I miss the excitement of sewing something fabulous every once in awhile just because I want to. You see, sewing is more than about clothing my body, it’s about expressing myself, learning new skills, therapy and art. When did it become so much about basics?

So, Heather of Closet Case Patterns and I decided to do something about it. For the rest of October and all of November we will be hosting the Sew Frosting challenge. Here is how it works. From now thru the end of November we want to encourage the sewing community to make “frosting”. (Frosting is a term coined by Tasia, founder of Sewholic patterns, years ago. It was a debate in the sewing community about sewing more cake (everyday basics) verses frosting (impractical makes).) This could mean sewing up that beautiful silk or brocade that has been sitting in your stash, it could include making that cocktail dress for the holiday party this year, or even just pushing yourself to use a fabric that is a bit out of your comfort zone instead of the navy or black that is safe. It can mean different things to different people, but remember that the idea is that you are inspired by what you are making. It should feel more like art and less like work.

And what would a contest be without awards? Here is what we came up with:

  1. The Most Unconventional Fabric or Material – Think outside of the box about what material you could use or supplement for your project. Maybe it’s a crazy print, or surprising textile.
  2. The Couture Award – Take those sewing skills to a new level and really show us what craftsmanship is made of.
  3. Oona Ballona Award – If there is anyone who comes to my mind when I think of Frosting it is Oona. She pulls of mixing print and color in a way I can only imagine. Check out her blog for inspiration and show us something fabulous that we could see her in.

Wondering about the prizes? I am blown away by how generous out sponsors have been! These prize packages are pretty incredible. We have prize packages for the three awards above plus 2 randomly selected community awards.

To enter, all you need to do is tag your entry on Instagram with #sewfrosting and @tag both Heather and I in the caption of your post. And of coarse use the tag #sewfrosting to post pics of fabric choices and the sewing progress during the entirety of the challenge. We want to follow along and be inspired by what you are making. If you don’t have instagram simply email your entry to myself or Heather. We will announce the winners of the challenge on our blogs December 1st.

As for what I will be making, here is what I know so far. Of coarse I am making something amazing out of that leopard print jacquard from The Fabric Store. But I will talk more specifics next week. In the meantime, I have started a pinterest board with all of my #sewfrosting inspiration. You can check that out here to see what I am thinking about and maybe even get some inspiration for yourself.

I hope you guys are excited. Be sure to hop on over the Heather’s blog to see what her thoughts are for the #sewfrosting challenge. Also, check out all of our amazing sponsors for the contest below.

 

SEWING

EMERSON PRINTED PATTERN + NEW HIGH RISE OPTION

October 4, 2018

Today the Emerson Pant and Short was rereleased as a paper pattern in addition to the original mid rise fit. The pattern is also now available as both a paper and a pdf pattern depending on your preference.

I have always loved the Emerson pattern because it is such a beginner friendly option for a pant pattern. It was designed to pair with the Ogden cami, and now that there is a high rise option, it pairs even better for a faux jumpsuit look.

The pattern now includes four views to accomodate the preferences of shorts or crop pants and both waist height options. The original mid rise option hits a couple of inches below the waist with a slightly curved front waistband and comfortable elastic back waistband. The new high rise option hits at the natural waist with a straight front waistband and the same elastic back waistband.

If you have bought the Emerson pattern in the past, you will receive an email sometime today with the updated pdf pattern. If you do not get the email by tomorrow, feel free to email us at contact@truebias.com with your proof of purchase and we can get it for you.

The PDF version of the pattern is discounted by 20% for the launch through this Monday October 8th, no code needed. Let us know if you have any questions.

I hope you are as excited as I am about this.