After sewing up hundreds of Hudson pants since it’s release, I have come up with a couple of alternative methods for sewing up the waistband / drawstring which make for a faster sew. This method works for all versions of the Hudson patterns, although I find it especially helpful for the kids Hudson pant pattern and here is why. I love the look of a drawstring for finishing the pant, but it is not very functional for a child, especially those who are on the younger side. Not only do those draw strings get pulled out and lost, but they can be a real struggle for those who cannot tie bows yet, but need to use the bathroom by themselves at school. So, instead of doing a full drawstring as the instructions suggest, I have come up with these two quick methods that give me the look I want without the headache of the actual drawstring.
Method 1 – This method is as simple as sewing up the pants as normal but omitting the buttonholes. I still like to do the stretch topstitching on the waistband for the look and also to keep the elastic from twisting in the wash, but that is optional. This method is especially good for those who are scared of sewing buttonholes. Once you have the pants prepped you also want to take a small piece of drawstring, tie a bow to the size you want, and finish the ends of the drawstring so that they don’t unravel.
Now it’s as simple as centering the bow on center front and then sewing back and forth on either side of the knot. If you are using a matching thread you won’t even be able to see the stitching and no one will know that it is a faux drawstring. Make sure that you are sewing through all parts of the bow on the sides of the middle knot to make sure it doesn’t untie.
That is it for method 1. This is honestly what I use the most for my kids Hudsons because it’s easy and gets the job done.
Method 2 – If you want to take it a step further and are not scared of buttonholes, you may want to try method 2. It’s a bit more involved than method 1 but still easy and creates the look of the drawstring without the ability for it to get pulled out.
You are going to sew up your Hudsons just like the pattern suggests including sewing and opening your buttonholes.
Then you will need to two separate pieces of drawstring with one end of each finished. The raw ends will be inserted into the buttonholes.
Take each raw end and insert into each buttonhole by about 1/2″. The 1/2″ should be pointing away from center front, inside of the waistband. Stitch back and forth several times, just to the outside of the buttonhole, catching the 1/2″ in the stitching the secure.
It should look like the drawstring is in the entire waistband, while actually it is only in the front.
Tie the two drawstring pieces into a bow and you are good to go!
I hope you found these two methods helpful for the next time you sew up some Hudsons!
Welcome back for day 4 of the Salida Skirt Sewalong where we tackle the sideseams and the waistband. We even get to try on our skirt and make some adjustments today. Lets get started.
Step 26 – (All Views) Staystitch the upper edges of the front and back skirt panels at ⅜” seam allowance. This is going to stabilize the slightly curved seam of the waist so that when you try it on and make adjustments, you can be sure that your waistband will fit. Unzip the front skirt first so that you do not stitch over the center front zipper opening. Otherwise you will not be able to unzip the skirt to try it on.
Step 27 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back skirt at the side seams, matching notches and aligning raw edges. Baste. Try on the skirt to check the fit. The top of the skirt should fit right up against the body and hit at the natural waist. If it does not sit at the natural waist then your straight waistband will not fit snuggly on your body. Adjust as necessary at the top of the skirt. Be careful not to fit the hips too tight or the pocket opening will begin to pull.
Step 28 – After making any fit changes, sew the front to the back skirt with a regular stitch length. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. Just like you have done for other portions of the skirt, press the seam allowances towards the skirt back. Topstitch the skirt back 1/8” from the seamlines, catching the seam allowance underneath. There is a lot of fabric at the point, so go slow and make sure that you are not catching any other parts of your skirt in your stitching.
Step 29 – To help the pocket openings lie flat when the skirt is worn, sew 1 1/2” directly on top of the pocket topstitching through all front layers, as pictured.
Step 30 – Press the unnotched long edge of the waistband up by 3/8”, with wrong sides touching.
With right sides touching, pin the notched side of the waistband to the top of the skirt. The notches on the waistband will match up with the center back notches on the skirt so pin these first and then pin around towards the front.
The ends should extend past the center front edges of the skirt by 1” or more. This is intentional to give you some wiggle room with fitting your skirt, and you will trim the ends later.
Step 31 – Starting at the left center front edge, stitch around the waistband, stopping at the end of the right extension.
Grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Different weights of fabric will require more or less trimming. The idea is to make sure you can easily sew through all layers.
Press the waistband and seam allowances up and away from the skirt.
Make sure that the tops of the zipper and waistband line up. If not sew to adjust.
Step 32 – Take the folded edge of the waistband and fold it to the outside, with right sides touching.
Overlap the folded edge past the waistband seam by about 1/16”. Pin.
You can see here on the inside how it slightly overlaps the seam.
Stitch the center front edge at 1/2” seam allowance so that the line of stitching is flush with the finished edge of the fly.
Trim the ends of the waistband to 1/2” past the front opening edges of the skirt.
Clip corners and grade seam allowance as shown. Repeat for right side.
Step 33 – Turn the waistband right side out.
On the inside, make sure the folded lower edge of the waistband self facing covers the seamline by about 1/16”. Pin in place.
Press the waistband so you get a nice squared edge at each center front corner. Zip up the zipper and check to make sure the upper edges of the right and left fronts align.
Step 34 – On the outside, stitch in the ditch by carefully sewing along the seamline, catching the edge of the folded waistband self facing on the inside of the skirt.
It will looks something like this on the inside (although maybe yours will look even neater). If there are a few small places where the inside didn’t catch, don’t worry. We will be topstitching the waistband tomorrow so that will help to secure it.
Thank you for following along today. Come back tomorrow and we will quickly make sure finishing touches and wrap the sewalong up.
Welcome back for day 3 of the Salida Sewalong. Today we will be assembling our pockets and also sewing up the back of the skirt. Lets get started.
Step 19 – With right sides touching, pin the pocket lining pieces to the skirt front along the short curved edges.
Sew the pocket opening edge.
Trim and clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. This will help the curve of the pocket to lay flat and not pull.
Step 20 – Turn the pocket linings to the inside, cheating the linings slightly toward the inside so they are not visible from the outside of the skirt.
Topstitch the skirt along pocket opening edges ¼” from the finished edge.
Step 21 – Pull the pocket lining away from the skirt. Pin the pocket to the pocket lining along the curved edge, right sides touching and matching notches. You will only be pinning the pockets together (keeping the front skirt out of the pinning).
Stitch the long curved edge, keeping the skirt free from the line of stitching as you sew. Finish the seam allowance along the curved edge in your desired manner.
Pull the pocket back towards the inside of the skirt. Pin the upper and side edges of the pocket to the skirt, matching notches and making sure everything lays nicely.
To secure, baste along top and side edges, 3/8” from raw edge. Set aside the skirt front for now.
VIEW A ONLY: (For View B, skip to Step 25)
Step 22 – Fold the inner edge of each back skirt self facing (where the slit will be) to the inside by 1/4” and press.
Fold in again by 1/4”. Pin and press. To secure, stitch close to the fold. (Sorry I forgot to snap a pic of the stitching.)
Step 23 – With right sides touching, pin the back skirt panels together along the center back. (Leave the slit portion free for now.)
Stitch from the upper edge to the dot. Pivot at the dot to stitch across the upper end of the back slit self facing.
Here is a close up.
Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. It can feel a little awkward to finish the angled area at the top of the slit, but just do your best.
Baste (temporary long stitch length with no backstitching) the slit closed from the dot down to the bottom raw edge of the skirt. This is going to help you line up the slit correctly. If it helps, you may want to draw a line straight down first to use as a stitching guideline.
Step 24 – Press the center back seam allowance and the self facings for the slit toward the left back skirt (when wearing), as shown below.
Baste along the upper end of the back skirt self facing through all layers to secure the back slit to one side. This will also serve as a guideline for the topstitching.
Starting at the top of the yoke, topstitch down the left back skirt to the slit, pivoting to stitch on top of the basting. Backstitch to secure.
Remove all basting stitches if visible, including the ones closing the slit from step 23.
That is it for View A for today.
View B Only
Step 25 – With right sides touching, pin the back skirt panels together along the center back, aligning raw edges, matching up notches, and making sure that the yoke seams align. Stitch the center back seam from top to bottom. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. Press the seam allowances towards the left skirt back. Topstitch the left skirt back 1/8” from the seamline (from top to bottom), catching the seam allowance underneath. (Sorry I don’t have pics of this, but it is just the same as View A above, without the slit.)
Welcome back for day 2 of the Salida Skirt Sewalong. Today we are going to tackle the zipper. I know this can feel overwhelming to beginners so I created a video tutorial that will walk you step by step through the entire process. Once you break it down into small pieces, it’s a lot easier to digest. If you decide to use the video, simply skip the rest of todays sewalong. If you prefer photos to a video, skip the following video and there is a traditional step by step sewalong below.
I would also like to add that the pattern pieces should also work for other zipper methods, so if you already have a method for sewing up a zipper that you prefer, feel free to use that one.
Step 6 – First you are going to want to trim the right front fly along the trim line as indicated on your pattern pieces. Sometimes this line can get a bit wonky when attaching the yoke. If it is not lining up straight, simply draw another line 1.25” from edge and trim that.
Apply left fly fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the assembled left front only as shown below.
Using your desired method, finish the seam allowances separately of both the left and right center front edges along the extensions and down to the hem. I know it can feel a little hard to finish the seam allowance right below the extention. Just do your best, realizing that this area will all be covered with your fly shield in future steps. Just make sure that you are not trimming your seam allowance as you are finishing it.
Step 7 – Fold back ½” on the right front skirt panel so it’s even with the raw edge below the extention, and press to create a guide line. Open back up. Fold back the left front skirt panel along the edge of the fusible interfacing, and press to create a guide line. Open back up.
Step 8 – With right sides touching, pin the front skirt panels together, matching yoke seams, notches and dot. I like to start pinning at the dot as this is the trickiest part to line up and then continue pinning towards the hem.
Sew the center front seam up to the dot, and backstitch to secure.
Step 9 – Position your skirt so that the left front is facing up, and the right front is falling down and out of the way.
Place your zipper face down so that the right edge (when facing down) of the zipper tape is lined up with the fold you created as a guide line, and the top edge is flush with the top raw edge of the skirt. Pin along the right edge. (This is a great place to use zipper tape if you prefer.)
Step 10 – Using a zipper foot, stitch along the left side of the zipper teeth as pictured, backstitching at the lower end to secure. Because the zipper pull is a bit bulky, you will not be able to sew completely straight at the top. Don’t worry about this- this line of stitching is not visible on the outside of the skirt. If you force this line of stitching to be straight, it will push the zipper pull over and will therefore not stay hidden once the skirt is finished.
Remove pins along the zipper.
Step 11 – Turn the left fly extension to the inside of the skirt along the foldline that you pressed earlier. With the wrong side of the skirt facing up, pin in place.
Step 12 – With the right side of your skirt facing up, unzip your zipper. Place the folded right front edge over the zipper tape, aligning the fold with the zipper teeth. Pin in place.
Step 13 – Using a zipper foot, baste close to the folded edge to secure the zipper to the right front. Midway through basting, leave the needle down and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. (You may need to temporarily pop off your zipper foot for this to be possible.) Continue basting, ending as close to the lower edge as possible. Note that you will not be able to get all of the way to the end since it is tucked into the left side of the skirt. Don’t worry about this. Just get as far down as you can.
Zip up the fly to make sure that the yoke seams are aligned, everything is laying flat, and that the zipper is tucked neatly into the left side of the skirt and not visible. If there are any issues you should adjust them now while it is still only basted.
Press the whole center front seam allowance towards the front left skirt (when wearing).
Step 14 – Align the topstitching guide (pattern piece 17) with the left front opening edge, as pictured.
Using the paper pattern piece as your guide, mark the left fly stitching line on the outside of the skirt.
Make sure that the center front seam allowances are still pressed towards the left front skirt as shown in step 13. Topstitch the fly through all layers along the marked line. Topstitch again 1/4” inside the first line of stitching.
Starting at the edge of the fly topstitching and ending at the hem, topstitch the left front ⅛” inside the center front seam, catching the seam allowance underneath.
Step 15 – Fold the fly shield in half with right sides touching. Stitch the lower end at 1/2” seam allowance. Trim. Turn fly shield right side out and press. Finish the inner long edge of the fly shield with either a zig-zag stitch or a serger.
Step 16 – With the skirt facing up and the zipper open, place the fly shield under the right front opening edge. The finished edge of the fly shield should slightly cover the right zipper tape. The fly shield should extend past center front, as pictured. Pin in place.
It should look like this on the wrong side.
Step 17 – Using a zipper foot, topstitch the right front on top of the line of previous basting through all layers, catching the fly shield in the line of stitching. Keep the left front free as you sew. In order to sew close to the fold, midway through stitching, leave the needle down, and pass the zipper pull under the presser foot to close the zipper. Continue stitching, ending as close to the lower edge as possible, and backstitch. Remove basting stitches if visible.
Step 18 – Zip up the fly and make sure that everything is laying flat and lined up. To secure the fly, sew a small (about 1/2” long) bar tack through all layers (including fly shield) at the bottom of the inner curved stitching line (oops I accidentally sewed mine on the outer line), and another at an angle about an inch up along the outer curved stitching line, as pictured. This will help to reinforce the tension points of the zipper, while also securing the fly shield.
It should look like this on the wrong side.
And that is it for today. I hope that was not too hard. Let me know if you have any questions and come back again tomorrow for my sewing.
I am super excited to be starting the Salida Skirt Sewalong today. By the end of today’s post we will have the front and back panels assembled and be ready to insert the zipper tomorrow.
You should already have your fabric cut out and ready to start sewing, but just for reference, here are the fabrics that I am using for the sewalong. My main fabric is a brown bull denim. I also have some floral cotton voile that I am using to line my pockets and some medium weight fusible interfacing.
For notions I am using coordinating all purpose thread, a jeans weight sewing machine needle (use a weight that coordinates best with the weight of your fabric) , a hand sewing needle, a skirt hook and eye, and a zipper. I have designed this pattern in a way that will not require you to shorten your zipper (one of my least favorite things). Instead, use the zipper length that coordinates with your size in the instructions. I am using a blue zipper for this tutorial so that it will be easier to see in the photos. I recommend trying to find a zipper closer to the color of your main fabric.
Please note that the following illustrations depict View A (fitted skirt). Unless noted, all instructions are applicable to both views.
Step 1 – Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. To keep it easy, I use a disappearing pen and mark on the wrong side of the fabric pieces.
This includes the guideline on the front yoke,
the dots and guidelines on the front center pieces,
and the dots on the back center pieces for View A only (these are for the slit).
Next, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and the upper edge of the pocket bag pieces.
Step 2 – With right sides touching, pin one front center panel to the coordinating front side panel, matching notches.
Sew the seam. Trim seam allowance to ¼”, and finish in your desired manner. I find that the easiest way to do this is to serge because I can also trim it down at the same time. This is the method I will be using for the sewalong, but feel free to use pinking shears or a ziz zag stitch to finish your seams if you prefer. These options will work great.
Press the finished seam allowance towards the front side panel. On the right side, topstitch the front side skirt ⅛” from the seam, catching the seam allowance underneath.
Step 3 – With right sides touching, pin the corresponding front yoke to the assembled front skirt panel, matching notches. These are opposite curves so it can feel a little awkward. Just do your best, knowing that you can adjust it as you go. The most important thing is to make sure that the two ends are sewn at the correct angle.
Sew the seam.
Clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. This will help the yoke curve nicely around your body without any pulling.
Trim the seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press up towards the front yoke.
Topstitch ⅛” from the seam on the front yoke, catching the seam allowance underneath. Repeat steps 2-3 for other front skirt pieces.
You can set the front panels aside for now. We are going to be sewing up the back panels in the same manner that you assembled the fronts. ( I have included less photos for the backs as I did for the fronts so that it is not redundant. If you need extra help, refer to the photos for the fronts.)
Step 4 – With right sides touching, pin one back center panel to its corresponding back side panel, matching notches. Sew the seam. Trim seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press towards the back side panel. On the right side, topstitch on the back side skirt ⅛” from seam.
Step 5 – With right sides touching, pin the corresponding back yoke to the assembled back skirt panel, matching notches. Sew the seam. Clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. Trim the seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press up towards the back yoke. Topstitch inside the back yoke, ⅛” from seam, catching the seam allowance underneath. Repeat steps 4-5 for remaining back skirt pieces. Set aside the assembled skirt back panels for now.
That is it for today. Here is the Salida Skirt Sewalong schedule for the remainder of the week.
Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 2 – Sewing the Zipper (Steps 6 – 18)
Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 3 – Pockets and Back Assembly (Steps 19 – 25)
Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 4 – Sideseams and Waistband (Steps 26 – 34)
Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 5 – Topsitiching, Hems, and Hook & Eye (Steps 35 – 38)
Thank you for following along! You can find the Salida Skirt sewing pattern in both paper and digital format here.