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HARRIET BRAS FOR BRAUGUST

August 29, 2018

One of my goals for this year was to dive into sewing lingerie. It’s something I have wanted to master for awhile, but have been seriously intimidated by. I am a pretty confident sewist, but bras are one of those things that has felt like a new craft. It didn’t feel intuitive to me so the learning curve was steeper than I was use to. To get over my fears, I decided to take a class from Amy of Cloth Habit at Fancy Tiger Crafts.

It was such an amazing intensive where I was able to get over my mental hurdle and realize that bra making really isn’t that hard. In fact, start to finish, it’s just a few hours so you improve and get confident really quickly. The hardest part is fitting the bra since you really can’t check fit until you’ve sewn a whole bra. Luckily Amy gave us each a fitting during the class. The problem was that my body went through some changes right after the class and so my bra size changed. When Braugust (Bra August) was announced, I decided to use the month to really tackle the Harriet bra again.

During the month of August I made up three different versions of the Harriet bra. I made small tweaks to each one for fit, but all three are wearable. I can’t get over how pretty and delicate they look.

The light blue and black bras were my first two. The lace and findings for these bras both came from Tailormade. I love her kits. It makes it so much easier knowing that you have all of the small parts to make a bra.

The rust colored bra is probably my favorite and was the last bra I made. I had a bunch of white lace and elastics in my stash left over from other projects that I threw into a dye bath. All of the parts came out in different shades from light pink to dark orange. I am pretty obsessed with how ombre affect that this gives when you combine them all into one bra.

Now that I have a great fitting Harriet bra I want to take some of the scraps and try to make some matching undies. I am also interested in trying out a foam version of the Harriet. I see lots more lingerie sewing in my future as it seems to be the perfect palette cleansers between working on my own patterns and larger projects.

MAKES SEWING

ARIANA DRESS IN BLACK LINEN

August 22, 2018

 

I made the Ariana dress at the beginning of summer and am just now getting around to blogging it. Probably because I wore it so much. It was definitely my go to this summer and I only wish I had followed through and made at least one more before it started getting cold outside. It was one of three outfits I brought on a family trip to Japan and it also was the first thing I reached for when teaching a class or going out for dinner.

The Ariana dress pattern is from Style Arc. I found the instructions very sparse, but the drafting of the pattern to be great. So just keep that in mind. I probably wouldn’t recommend it to a true beginner. My favorite part of the dress is the back panel which is sewn up with elastic thread. This can take some practice, but it’s not as hard as it looks and it creates a dress that is super comfortable to wear.

I did need to make some fit adjustments, but the great thing about a princess seam is that full bust adjustments are pretty simple. I used my Beatrice dress form to figure out the fit adjustments to make, which was much easier than doing it on myself.

The fabric is medium weight linen from The Fabric Store with wooden buttons from my stash.

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

YARI JUMPSUIT – WIDE LEG HACK

July 3, 2018

I have been meaning to show you guys this super easy Yari Jumpsuit hack for awhile now and I am so glad that I finally did because it’s one of my fav. things in my wardrobe. I have been seeing this oversized, easy to wear, wide leg jumpsuit all over ready to wear recently so I hope you guys are excited about it as I am.

This hack can be done with the sleeved or sleeveless versions and you can of coarse you the D rings if you want, but to really get the same look that I have been seeing in stores, you want to do the sleeveless, no ring option.

I decided to go with a black linen rayon blend that I had in my stash which worked great, but I think I am going to make another one soon with lighterweight rayon or crepe for one with more movement.

To adjust the pattern pieces I am going to be adjusting all four main pattern pieces along the legs. You won’t be messing with the inner sides of the pattern pieces that are straight and create the princess seam down the front and back as these lines are already parallel to the grainline. Instead you will be adjusting the curved outer lines only, making them parallel to the grainline as well. It’s that simple. The only trick is to make sure that you adjust the front and back side pieces from the same point and the front and back inner pieces from the same point so that they match up when you are sewing them together.

Let’s start with the outer front piece. Starting at the hip, right before it starts to curve in for the tapered leg, simply draw a line straight down, parallel to the grainline. I find that right about the hip notch is perfect to start. Now continue the hem line out to meet this new outer leg line. That’s it!

 

Repeat what you just did for the side back, being sure to mimic the line you made on the outer front piece so that they match up when sewn.

 

Now you are going to do the same thing with the center front piece at the crotch. There is some wiggle room here, but essentially I start about 2 inches down from the top of the crotch and begin to gradually make the line straight and parallel to the grainline. If you want the pants a bit wider, start closer to the crotch.

 

Repeat for the center back piece, starting the line at the same place you did for the center front so that it matches up when sewn.

 

 

That’s it! Sew the pattern up according to the directions. I chose to crop these a bit by taking 2 inches off of the hem and then turning up another 2 inches for a wider looking hem, but hem length is up to you.

 

 

Let me know if you have any questions! I am pretty obsessed with this simple hack.

If you would like to purchase the Yari pattern you can do so here and here.

 

MAKES SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT – LONG TIE HACK

June 13, 2018

The long tie Yari Jumpsuit hack was a brilliant idea that I got from one of my testers. This is a great hack for anyone, but is especially great if your fabric is on the lighter side, you want waist definition, and you don’t think that the fabric can sustain the weight of the D rings.

The ties will start at the D ring dot on the front, wrap around the back, and then tie in the front. So the first thing that you need to decide is how wide you want your ties and how long you want them. This is completely according to your personal preference. I decided to go with a finished tie that was 1.5″ wide. For the length, I took a measuring tape, placed in on my body approximately where the tie would start, wrapped it around my body, and decided on a length from there. Keep in mind that you may want the tie to be longer is you making the pant version than if you are making the short version.

Let me show you how you can do it.

Cut two ties that are about 60 inches long and 4 inches wide. I wanted the finished ties to be 1 1/2″ wide so I added 1/2″ seam allowance and then multiplied that number by 2 to create a tube.

Next, fold the ties in half, lengthwise, and sew up the long edge at 1/2″ seam allowance.

Next trim the seam allowance down to 1/8″.

Using a safety pin, turn each tie right side out.

Press the ties flat and tuck one short end in for a nice finish. Then edgestith around the three sides that won’t be showing. One short end (the open end) will be sewn into the jumpsuit so you don’t need to topstitch that one.

Try the tied on and estimate the finished length you want to the best you can. For reference mine are each 39 inches each on a size 8 although I think I would make them longer if I was making the pant version.

Center your ties over the D ring dots on your side fronts. You will not be using the D ring dots on the side backs.

Now you just need to sew up your jumpsuit according to the directions.

Here is how it turned out!

I am pretty excited about how it turned out. It’s nice to have another version of my favorite jumpsuit.

As you can see here, it wraps around the back, overlapping there, and then ties in the front. You could easily insert the ties into the back dots instead and have it tie in the back which would be another fun way to make it.

For fabric, I used an amazing linen blend from Blackbird fabrics. It’s the same fabric that I used for the cover sample of the Yari pattern. I love this fabric. I has a great nubby texture, doesn’t wrinkle as much as pure linen, and is such a fun color.

 

That’s it. Sure easy and fun hack. Let me know if you have any questions.

SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 5 – BUTTONS / BUTTONHOLES / HEMS

June 8, 2018

Today we are going to wrap everything up as I walk you through buttonholes, buttons and hems. I know that buttonholes really intimidate a lot of people, but I always try to remind everyone that the buttonholes are covered by the buttons so they do not need to be perfect. Try some scrap buttonholes first to make sure that you have your settings right and then just go for it. For those who want an alternative method, you could always try snaps if buttonholes are just not your thing.

 

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Step 34 – First, find your buttonhole guide provided with your pattern pieces. You are going to line this up on top of the right center front and mark the buttonholes. If you are using a different size button than suggested, but sure to adjust the length of your buttonholes. Also keep in mind any alterations that you made to the length of your pattern pieces and adjust accordingly. You want the buttonholes to be spaced evenly along the length of the center front. I usually use a disappearing pen, but use whatever marking tool you prefer.

 

Once you sew your buttonholes I like to add fray check to the front and back of each buttonhole and let it dry. This really keeps it from unraveling and also stiffens the buttonhole to make it less fiddly when opening it.

Now open each buttonhole. Use whatever method you prefer, but I highly recommend getting a buttonhole opener. It makes the process much smoother.

Line the right front up over the left front so that everything is flat and even. Insert your marking tool into the opened buttonhole to mark your button placement.

Sew on your buttons by machine or hand.

 

Step 35 – Fold the bottom raw edge of the pant-length or short-length jumpsuit up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press.

For the short-length jumpsuit, fold up by another 1”. For the pants, fold up by another 3/4”. Pin and press.

Stitch close to fold to secure.

Congrats! You are finished. Make sure to tag your jumpsuit with #yarijumpsuit and #truebiaspatterns on instagram so that I can see them.