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June 5, 2018

Today is going to be a pretty short day compared to yesterday. I goal is to get all of the fronts, backs, and sides attached into one big piece. All of the steps today work for all views. I am sewing the sleeved, short length jumpsuit for reference. Lets get started.


Step 13 (All Views) – With right sides touching, pin the side edge of the center front to the side front, matching notches.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance.  You are securing the edges of the pockets and the optional ties at this point so be extra careful that these are lined up correctly before sewing over them. Trim seam allowances to 1/4″ and finish in your desired manner. I am serging. Serging is nice because you can trim the seam allowance and finish the edges in one long swoop, but using pinking shears or zigzagging is fine too.

Press seam allowances towards the center front.

Topstitch the center front 1/8” from the seam line on the right side of your jumpsuit, catching the seam allowance underneath.


Step 14 – Repeat step 13 for the center back and side back.


Step 15 – With right sides touching, pin the two assembled back pieces together along the center back. Stitch the center back seam. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. If your fabric is on the sturdier side, you may want to clip the curved area a bit to prevent any pulling. I find, however, that trimming to 1/4″ is sufficient in most medium to light weight fabrics.

Press seam open or to one side if you serged like I did.


Step 16 – With right sides touching, pin the front and back shoulder seams together.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish seam allowanced in your desired manner and press seam allowances open or towards the back if serged.


That’s it for today! See you back here tomorrow.




June 4, 2018

Welcome to day 1 of the Yari Jumpsuit Sewalong. I am so excited to get started. I hope you have your pattern assembled and your fabric cut out and ready to go. Make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. Also, mark the dots for the D-ring ties on the front side and back side pieces if you are sewing that option.


Step 1 – Fuse your interfacing to the wrong side of the front neck facing, the back neck facing, and 1/4” down from the upper edge of the pocket pieces as shown below.

Here is a close up of where you are placing the interfacing for the pocket edge.


Step 2 – Staystitch the neckline on the center front and center back pieces at 3/8” seam allowance from the top edge towards the bottom.  I know that a lot of people skip staystitching, but it really does make a difference. I have found that if I don’t staystitch the front next edge it will bag out and be hard to attach to the facing. If your fabric has a looser weave you might even staystitch the neck facing edges although I generally find that the interfacing is sufficient in a medium weight woven fabric.

Here is a closeup since it’s hard to see.

For sleeveless views A & C, also staystitch the armholes on the side front and side back pieces at a scant 1/4” seam allowance from the top of the armhole down.


Step 3 With right sides touching, pin and sew the shoulder seams of the front and back neck facings at 1/2″.

You can finish the seam allowance here in your desired manner, although it will not be exposed so it’s not necessary. I decided to skip it here. Press seams open or towards the back (if serging the seam allowance).


Step 4 – Finish the outside edge of your assembled neck facing in your desired manner. I am serging it to keep it simple. You do not need to finish the bottom or inside edges. Set the facing aside for now.


Step 5 – Fold the top edge of one pocket down,wrong sides touching, by 1/4″ and press. This is along the top edge of the fused interfacing.

Fold again, wrong sides touching, at 7/8”, and press. This along the bottom edge of the fused interfacing.

Edgestitch, the lower folded edge and the top edge. I stitch at about 1/8″ from the folded edges, but the distance is up to you. I just recommend being consistent as there is a lot of topstitching in this pattern and you want it to match.

Here is a closeup of the back.

Here is a closeup of the front.

For the pant version (views C and D), fold the bottom edge of the pocket up by 1/2”, wrong sides touching, and press. Repeat step 5 with remaining pocket.


Step 6 – With right sides facing up, pin the pocket to the side front panel, matching notches, with raw edges even. For the short version, the bottom raw edge of the pocket will line up with the bottom of the side front panel.

For the pant version, the pocket will align with the middle set of notches. Pin in place. Edgestitch along the bottom folded edge of the pocket for the pant version.

For all views, baste along the side edges at 1/4” to secure.

Optional D-Ring Ties (If you are not adding the ties, you are done for today and can skip ahead to step 13 tomorrow.)

Step 7 – With right sides touching, fold each front and back tie piece in half lengthwise. Pin and stitch the long edge at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim seam allowance to 1/4”.


Step 8 – Turn ties right side out using a loop turner or safety pin.

Press and Edgestitch along both long edges.


Step 9 – Fold in one raw edge of each shorter tie by 1/4” and press. Fold again by 1/2” and press.

Insert two D rings and insert them into the loop created by the fold and pin. Edgestitch along the fold to secure the D rings into the tie. It is sometimes easiest to move your needle over so that you can stitch close to the edge but also keep the D rings far enough from the presserfoot.


Step 10 – Fold one raw edge of each longer tie in by 1/4”, and then again by 3/8”.

Stitch along the folded edge to secure.


Step 11 – Pin one back (longer) tie to the right side of each side back, centering the raw end over the dot so the raw edges match up. Baste to secure. (The wrong side of the tie should be facing up.)


Step 12 – Pin one front tie (tie with the D rings) to the right side of each side front piece, centering the raw end over the dot so the raw edges match up. Baste to secure. (The right side of the tie should be facing up.)

That is it for today! Check back in tomorrow for the next steps.



May 31, 2018

With the Yari Jumpsuit sewalong started next week, I wanted to go ahead and talk a bit about fabric choices and notions in case you want to get everything together.

First lets talk fabric. By far, my favorite fabric for the Yari is a linen or linen blend. I just think that the look and texture of linen lends itself perfectly to a jumpsuit. And as a bonus it’s easy to care for, easy to sew with, and cool in warm weather. The negatives to linen is that it can be scratchy or rough against the skin, and it wrinkles. If these two things worry you, I recommend trying out a linen blend. I especially love a good linen / rayon blend as it cuts down on the wrinkling significantly and softens the fabric. Below are a few linen and linen blends that would work really well for the Yari.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9


Linen is certainly not the only option though. Any kind of medium weight woven fabric works great. I have tried rayon challis, chambray, and silk noil, all with great success. Below are a few linen alternative fabrics that would be great options.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9


Besides fabric, you will need a few notions. You need to some light to medium weight fusible interfacing to apply to the facings and the tops of the pockets. You will of coarse want some coordinating thread. There is a lot of topstitching in this project so getting a close match to the color of your fabric is a huge plus.

You are also going to want to get 5 – 1/2″ buttons for the center front closure. If you are adding length to the body of the jumpsuit, keep in mind that you may want to purchase and extra button.

If you are sewing the sleeveless option, you are going to need 1/2″ single fold bias tape. You can either make your own or just buy the store bought stuff like I did. Your choice.

Lastly, if you are adding in the optional D ring ties, make sure that you purchase 4 – 3/4″ D rings. You should be able to find a few different finishes for these in your big box store, although I am sure there are great vintage ones to be found on etsy or ebay. If for some reason you can only find the 1″ D rings, no worries. Just make your ties a bit wider to compensate.


The Yari Sewalong starts on Monday. I will not be going over printing and assembling you pattern, cutting out your fabric, making adjustments, or markings. If you want a refresh on printing your pattern, check out the following post from a past post – Printing / Assembling.

The Yari Sewalong will happen as follows:

Day 1 (Monday June 4) – Facings / Pockets / D Ring Ties

Day 2 (Tuesday June 5) – Assembling the Front / Back / Shoulder Seams

Day 3 (Wednesday June 6) – Neck Facing / Side Seams / Crotch

Day 4 (Thursday June 7) – Armhole Finishes

Day 5 (Friday June 8) – Buttons / Buttonholes / Hems

Wide Leg Hack (Tuesday June 12)

Long Tie Hack (Thursday June 14)


Excited to get get started on Monday!



February 22, 2018

Today we are going to finish up your Nikko top or dress by hemming them finishing up the side slits for the dress views.

Step 15 – Turn the hemline up by 1” (2.5 cm). Pin and press. I am using some fusible knit tape to prevent stretching out the hem which you can see below.


Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. I like to use my twin stretch needle for my tops because the stitching is pretty visible on these thinner knits. I think that the twin needle looks really professional.

And that is it. Views A & B are finished!

Now, if you are sewing up Views C or D (the dress views) then we are going to finish up the side slits and hem.

Step 16 – If you havn’t already, press the side seam allowances open above the dot and continue to press it open below the dot and pin in place so that it is an even 3/4” on each side. It is very important that this stitching does not stretch out as you sew it. I chose to use the heat n bond soft stretch to help, but I also decreased the tension on my sewing machine which seemed to do the trick. Practice with scrap fabric until it looks right for you.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, edgestitch around the three sides of each slit, pivoting at the corners and stitching just above the large dot as pictured. I went with an elongated stretch stitch for this as I find that with the ribknit fabric the stitches pretty much disappear into the thickness.


Step 17 – Turn the hemline of the front dress up by 1” (2.5cm). Pin and press. If using a stabilizing knit tape apply here as well. You do not want the stitching to stretch out the fabric or you will end up with a fish tail effect at the bottom.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. (If your fabric is very stretchy, you may want to consider using some fusible knit tape to stabilize the hem before stitching.) Repeat for back hemline.

Congrats, Views C & D are finished!


Let me know if you have any questions and please tag your versions with #nikkotop or #nikkodress so that I can see them.



February 20, 2018

Today we are going to finish up the side seams and the armholes for Views A and C of the Nikko which are the sleeveless versions. If you are sewing Views B or D (with sleeves) you can take a break and wait for tomorrow.

Step 7 – With right sides touching and matching notches, pin the front to the back at sides.

Sew side seams with a stretch stitch. For View A, sew from the armhole to the hem, backstitching at both ends.

For View C (shown), sew from the armhole to the large dot and backstitch. Make sure that you sew straight down to the dot and not follow the curve of the slit. It should look like this:

Press seam allowances open.

Note that for View C this step must be done on a sewing machine and not a serger to accomodate the slit. If using a serger, you may choose to finish the front and back edges separately and then sew the seam together with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. Since knit fabric does not generally fray, I decided to not serge the edges in order to reduce any bulk.


Step 8 – You will notice that for the armhole facings, I am using a different fabric than my main dress fabric. If your fabric is a bit bulky like mine I recommend doing this as it will reduce any bulk in that area. You just have to be extra careful that none of your facing peeks out once you turn it under and stitch in the following steps.

With right sides touching, sew the short ends of the armhole facing together. Press seam allowances open if using a regular machine or to one side if using a serger.

With wrong sides touching, fold the armhole facing in half, aligning the long raw edges, and matching up the seam. Press.

Divide the armhole facing into quarters in the same manner as the neckband, placing pins at each quarter matchpoint.


Step 9 – Like you did for the neckline, divide the garment armhole into quarters, placing pins at each quarter matchpoint.


Step 10 – With right sides touching, pin the armhole facing to the garment armhole, bringing quarter matchpoints together. Add more pins if desired.

Sew the armhole seam using a stretch stitch or serger, stretching the armhole facing evenly between matchpoints to fit into the garment armhole as it is a bit smaller.


Step 11 – Turn your garment inside out. Pull the armhole facing to the inside of the garment. Pin and press so that the armhole seam is rolled slightly towards the inside of the garment to make it less visible on the right side. I like it to roll about 1/16″ to the inside to make sure that you don’t see it when right side out. This is especially important if your armhole facing is a different color like mine is.

Stitch along the fold of the facing to secure it to the garment using a stretch stitch. Press.

That is it for today! If you are sewing up the sleeveless top you are almost done. Come back tomorrow for the side seams and sleeves of Views B and D, and then on Thursday we will finish up the hems and side slits. In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions.