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September 1, 2016

Today is day 2 of the Emerson short and crop pant sewalong.  We are going to assemble the majority of the pants  and shorts and prep the waistband for tomorrow. Let’s dive in.

Step 8 – Pin one of the front shorts / pants to its coordinating back, right sides touching, along the outside and inner legs. Stitch.

Finish seam allowance in desired manner. I serged the seam allowances. Repeat for other leg. Press seam allowances open for inner leg (or to one side if you serged like I did) and to the back for the outer leg.

Step 9 – Put one leg (right side out) inside the other leg (wrong side out), lining up the crotch seams and notches. Pin and stitch.

Step 10 – Finish the crotch seam allowance in your desired manner, press seam allowance to one side.

Edgestitch the crotch seam on the right side of your shorts, catching the seam allowance underneath. This will keep the crotch seam out of the way and much more comfortable.

Step 11 – Make a bartack through all layers at the stress point where the bottom of the pocket meets the side seam. Here are my sewing machine settings for the stitch, but your preference may be a bit wider or longer zigzag.

The bartack should be about 1/2” long with 1/8” extending towards the back leg and the rest towards the front.

Step 12 – Take one front waistband and sew each narrow side to the narrow sides of one back waistband, right sides touching and matching notches, to form a ring.

Trim seam allowances to about 1/4” to reduce bulk and press open. Repeat with other waistband pieces.

Step 13 – With right sides touching, pin the tops (unnotched edge) of each ring together, matching seams.

Stitch. Trim seam allowance to about 1/4” to reduce bulk.

Step 14 – Press the seam allowance towards the inner waistband (the one without interfacing).

Understitch by stitching through the seam allowance and inner waistband about 1/8” from the seam. Although this is not a necessary step, it really helps keep the inner waistband front peaking out.

Step 15 – Fold the inner waistband towards the outer waistband, wrong sides touching. Match up the notches on the bottom edges of the waistband. Press the fold.


That is it for today. Now the waistband is ready to attach to the pants or shorts tomorrow and we finish them up. Can’t wait. Let me know if you have any questions.

You can find the pattern here.



August 31, 2016

Welcome to day one of the Emerson short and pant sewalong. I am going to be sewing up one pair of crop pants in this great lightweight denim, and a pair of the shorts in some navy striped linen that I am really excited about .

All of the directions are the same for both except for the hem width so I will be jumping back and forth between the two depending on which one shows better in pictures. We will do the whole sewalong in three days. It’s an easy sew, so it will go quick. I won’t be going over printing your pattern or assembling / cutting it out, so go ahead and do that first and come back when you are ready to get sewing.

Step 1 – Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. I used a few different techniques this time around, but use whatever is easiest for you. I like to just snip the notches. Just be sure to make a small snip (about 1/4″) so that it stays within the 1/2″ seam allowance.

I use a disappearing fabric pen for the dots and then my chacco pen (my favorite!) for the pleat lines. The pleat lines are about 2 1/4″ long for reference and make sure that you mark them on the right side of the fabric.

Next, fuse your interfacing to the wrong side of one front waistband and the edge of each pocket piece.

Step 2 – Take one front shorts / pants piece and pull the pleat line closest to center front towards the next line, in the direction of the side seam (with the right side of your fabric facing up). Repeat for second pleat. Pin in place and press. I like to place a pin at the end of the pleat line so that when I am stitching the pleat in the next step, I have an easy visual of where to stop.

Step 3 – Edgestitch along the fold of each pleat for the length indicated on the pattern and backstitch at the end. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for other front shorts / pants pattern piece.

Step 4 – With right sides touching, pin the unnotched side of one pocket (the edge with the interfacing) to the coordinating pocket area of the front short / pant.

Stitch at your normal 1/2″ seam allowance.

Trim seam allowance to about 1/4” to reduce bulk.

Step 5 – Press the whole pocket piece over the seam allowance and away from center front.

Understitch by stitching through the seam allowance and pocket, close to the seam edge. This will help the pocket to stay on the inside of the shorts and not peak out.

Step 6 – With right sides touching, fold the pocket in half along the two middle notches. Pin.

Keeping the front shorts / pants out of the way, stitch the bottom of the pocket together. Finish seam allowance in your desired manner. I chose to simply serge the seam allowance, but you could also zigzag stitch or use pinking shears to finish it.

Step 7 – Flip the whole pocket towards the inside of the front shorts / pants and press the fold of the pocket flat. Line up along the top and sides and pin.

Baste along the top and sides at 3/8” seam allowance to keep the pocket in place for future steps.

Repeat steps 4 through 8 for the other pocket and front shorts / pants.

Your pants and shorts should look like this now.

That is it for today. Let me know if you have any questions.  If you want to get the pattern you can purchase it here.



August 30, 2016

Welcome back to day 2 of the Ogden Sewalong. Like I said yesterday, this is a quick sew, so we will finish up the Ogden Cami today and start on the Emerson shorts and pants tomorrow. Let’s get going.


Step 8 –  Make a small snip close to, but not through the point of the V at center front and center back. Make a few more snips around the curves of the armholes and neckline to help them turn easily.

Step 9 –  Being careful not to cross or twist them, bring the open end of each strap under the armhole and around to the backside of the cami.  It will be between the cami and the lining the whole time. I realize this feels a little like origami but give it a try a couple of times and it will make sense.


Push them up between the back lining and back cami, where you have left the unstitched spaces. Line the raw edge of each strap up with the raw edge of the seam allowance at each back dot. Pin in place.

Step 10 –  Finish sewing the area around the dots that you previously left unstitched, while sewing the ends of the straps you just inserted. (Tip –  You may want to baste first to make sure that your straps are the right length and adjust accordingly before stitching and trimming.)

Trim the seam allowances around all four large dots and the rest of the neckline and armholes to reduce bulk.

Step 11 – Turn your cami right side out, pulling gently on the straps to help turn the top corners.

Press the seam allowance and lining gently away from the cami.

On the right side of your lining, understitch by stitching the seam allowance to the lining close to the seam. (Pressing and stitching will not be possible all of the way into the strap areas. Don’t worry about the areas that are hard to reach.) Understitching will help the lining stay on the inside of the cami and not poke out of the neckline. I know you may be tempted to skip it, but I promise you will feel better if you don’t.

Step 12 – Hem the bottom of your cami by folding the raw edge up, wrong sides touching, by 1/4” and pressing.

Fold up again at 1/4”  towards the wrong side and  press again.

Pin. Edgestitch along the inside fold to finish the hem.

Step 13 – Give your straps, neckline, and armholes a good press so that they are crisp.

Turn your cami inside out. Making sure that the lining is nice and flat, pin the bottom hem of the lining to the cami seam allowance at each side seam.

You can either hand tack the hem of the lining to the seam allowance of the cami with a few stitches, or if you can do what I did here and stitch in the ditch of the side seam to catch the lining. Either way, this will keep the lining down and lined up with wear and washing.

Step 14 – Turn your cami right side out. Give it a final press and it’s finished! (Tip – I highly recommend sewing a label or piece of ribbon at the back neckline to differentiate it from the front.)



That’s it for the Ogden cami! Pretty painless right? Tomorrow I will be back with the Emerson pants and shorts sewalong.



August 29, 2016

Welcome to day one of the Ogden Cami Sewalong. The Ogden Cami is a very fast sew and so we are going to be doing the sewalong in just two days. We will not be going over assembling the pattern or cutting the fabric as I’ve done this many times before with other patterns. If you need a refresher you can check out this link. Here are a few photos of the pattern assembled and fabric cut out to give you an idea. As far as fabric goes, I am using this silk crepe de chine that I designed through My Fabric Designs and used some ivory colored silk crepe for the lining to keep the two easy to differentiate in the photos.

Step 1 – Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. To keep it simple, I like to  just do a simple clip into the notches and use a disappearing fabric ink pen for the dots.

It’s also a good idea to clearly mark the back pieces at this time. I like to put a piece of masking tape on the back cami and back lining pieces for easy identification.

Next, staystitch the neckline and armholes of both the cami and lining pieces at 3/8” seam allowance in the directions shown in the instructions. A lot of people will skip this step. Yes, it’s not necessary, but it really does help you to not stretch out your fabric pieces and assure a good fit.

Step 2 – Prepare your straps by folding each in half lengthwise, right sides touching. Stitch at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim to 1/8” seam allowance.

Using your loop turner or a safety pin, turn your straps right side out.

Press flat. You can choose which flat side becomes the right side or wrong side at this time, but since it’s a loop it really doesn’t matter.

Step 3 – Pin one end of each strap to the right side of the front cami at dots. The raw edge of the strap should be flush with the top of the point.

Baste at 3/8” seam allowance.

Step 4 – With right sides touching, pin the sides of your front and back cami together, matching notches. Stitch at your normal 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish seam allowance in your desired manner and press seams open. I chose to do french seams on the main cami and a simple serge on the lining. Repeat this step for lining pieces as well. Depending on how you finish the seams, either press seams open or towards the back. (Tip –  to reduce bulk, press your cami seam allowance one way and your lining seam allowance the other.)

Step 5 – Take your lining and turn the bottom edge up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press. Fold up another 1/4”. Pin and press.

Edgestitch along the fold to finish the hem of the lining.

Step 6 – With the cami right side out and the lining inside out, place the cami inside of the lining. Match up the armholes and neckline. Pin. Make sure that the straps stay straight down and out of the way. (Tip – You may want to temporarily pin your straps to the lining to make sure that they stay clear of your stitching.)

Step 7 – Stitch around the neckline, armholes, and front dots. When you get to the V at center front and center back, leave your needle in the fabric and pivot for a nice point. Do not stitch 1/2” in either direction of the back dots to allow room for the strap to be inserted and attached later. (Tip – When stitching around the V points and also across the straps, it’s a good idea to reduce your stitch length to give that area extra strength.)


That’s it for today. We will do the second half tomorrow. Let me know if you have any questions. And if you want to purchase the pattern you can do so here.