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PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LANDER PANT & SHORT – NEW SEWING PATTERN

September 7, 2017

I am so excited to finally show you all my newest pattern – the Lander Pant and Short. This pattern is high-waisted, with an exposed button fly, and 3 lengths. It has front and back patch pockets, belt loops, and a straight fit through the legs. View A is a short with a 4” inseam, View B is an ankle length pant, and View C is a boot length pant that can be worn with heels.  It has a difficulty rating of 3.5 out of 5, but with the sewalong coming in just a couple of weeks I am certain that any confident sewist could handle it.

The idea for this pattern came from my favorite thrifted boy scout shorts that I wore all through high school. Since I no longer have them I decided I needed to recreate them to my best memory. This pattern is everything good I remember from the shorts – high waisted 70’s vibe, brass buttons, large patch pockets, but updated to be a bit more modern and flattering. I have been wearing them all summer and they are so versatile. They were perfect for our summer vacation to Yellowstone where I wanted to be comfy and practical, but not sloppy. They are equally great with a heel or wedge for a more sleek, going out look.

The Landers are drafted for woven fabrics with little to no stretch. I made most of my samples in the Robert Kaufman Ventana twill, but any medium to heavyweight woven fabric will do. My testers made them in linen, denim, twill, and corduroy, all with great results. Just keep in mind your machine and how it will deal with multiple layers of heavy fabric when choosing the best fabric for your version. I will be back next week with more fabric recommendations, and tips on notions.

Being our most advanced pattern to date, we will definitely be doing a sewalong. The official sewalong starts on Monday, Sept. 18th so start gathering your supplies now.

You can find the pdf (digital) version of this pattern in the shop here. Use the code LANDERLAUNCH for 20% off of the pdf pattern from now through Sunday night.

If you prefer the paper pattern you can preorder it here (along with 3 other patterns being produced into paper patterns). We are expecting it to be shipped out sometime within the next 6-8 weeks.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING TUTORIALS

CAMP PJ PARTY

October 1, 2016

It’s Camp PJ Party Day. If you don’t know what I am talking about check out all of the details over at Camp Workroom Social. Pretty much anyone who wants to can make a pair of PJs, post them on instagram today, and get an adorable PJ patch of their own from Camp Workroom Social. Super fun right?

For my PJs I made a pair of pocketless Hudson Pants and a Penny Raglan Tee for a super comfy loungy set of PJs that I never want to take off. The fabric is a rayon spandex from Indiesew. It’s the perfect medium weight knit that is not see through at all, but still drapey and soft. The cuffs, waistband, and neckline were done in a coordinating ribbing from JoAnns.

I wanted to make pocketless Hudsons for the bottoms to take a bit of the bulk out for comfort. I’ve been seeing a lot of this style in ready to wear stores lately. It’s a bit more of a long john style that is perfect for sleepwear. Altering your pattern for pocketless is super simple. All you do is take the main pocket piece and line up the side and top notches with the front piece. Take it together and that becomes your new front piece. You won’t need the inner pocket pattern piece or the pocket detail. Then you just sew it up like normal, eliminating the steps for the pocket. It’s an even faster sew after that.

The top is the Penny Raglan from Grainline Studio. I love the oversized, off the shoulder feel to this top. I made up another one as an oversized tee to wear with workout pants and a sports bra and I love it too. The only change I made to this top is to lengthen it a bit. Not sure if I needed to, but I thought better safe than sorry.

The end result is my new fav PJs. They are SO comfy. I can’t wait to wear them at Camp Workroom Social in just a couple of weeks.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING TUTORIALS

OGDEN CAMI DRESS HACK

September 13, 2016

I am so excited about all of the Ogden hacks that I have seen popping up over the past few weeks. I guess that is the beauty of a simple pattern isn’t it? So many possibilites. Here are a few of my fav hacks that I have seen so far –  here, here and here.

I put together a very simple Ogden hack for today where essentially you add a large gathered rectangle to a baby doll type silhouette. It’s very easy and it completely transforms the pattern.

The first thing we are going to do is shorten the cami front and back. I am assuming that if you are making this hack then you already have made this original pattern. If so, try it on and decide where you want the end of the bodice to be and the skirt portion to begin. When I tried mine on, I decided on about 10 inches down from the center V. Then I added 1/2″ to both the neckline and bottom for seam allowance so the total drop at center front was 11 inches. Now mimic the basic shape of the original hem for this new hem at the shortened length.

Line the side seams up of the front and back cami to make sure that they are the same length and make a new cutting line for the back cami just like you did for the front. Note that the back is going to be straighter than the front. The front needs the more curved hemline to accomodate the fullness of your chest.

Now cut along the lines you made.

Cut out two front camis and two back camis on the fold, and your straps. You will not be using the lining pattern pieces from the original cami pattern. This dress will have a fully lined bodice so one of the fronts and one backs will be your lining.

You also need to cut out your skirt pieces. You are going to cut out two identical rectangles. Decide how long you want the skirt and add 1/2″ for the top seam allowance and 1″ for the hem. Cut it according to your preference. I wanted a 26″ skirt so with the seam allowance and hem mine was 27 1/2″ long.

For the width it also depends on how full you want yours (and how wide your fabric is). For reference mine is 43″ wide so I cut it at 44″ wide because of the 1/2″ seam allowance on both sides. So in the end, I cut two rectangles that were 27 1/2″ tall and 44″ wide.

Once everything is cut out you can start sewing. You are going to sew the top portion of the cami up exactly like the instructions except do not hem the outer cami or the lining. It should look like this.

Next, sew the two rectangles together (right sides together) along the side seams at 1/2″ seam allowance and finish in your desired manner. I serged it to keep it simple, but french seams would be a great choice if you want the whole inside of the dress to be perfectly finished.

Now you are going to run two parallel gathering stitches along the top of the skirt. It’s easiest to do two on the front and two on the back, stopping and starting right before and after the side seams.

Gather up the stitches so that the gathering is evenly distributed and the top of the skirt is the same width as the bottom of the cami. With right sides touching, pin the skirt to the main cami (keep the lining up and out of the way). Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance and press all seam allowances up towards the cami.

Separate your lining and press the bottom up (wrong sides touching) by 3/8″.

Bring the lining down towards the skirt and pin the folded edge over the seam where the skirt and main cami meet. You will be completely covering the seam allowance. Pin generously.

On the right side of the dress, stitch in the ditch at the seam where the cami and skirt meet, catching the lining underneath.

Try the dress on the make sure that you like the length and adjust as necessary. Fold the bottom up by 1/4″ and again at 3/4″. Press and Pin and stitch the hem in place.  That’s it.

Here is my version. I decided to make this one middie length although I really want to make another one that is above the knee. I wore this dress this weekend to the farmers market with flats and a jean jacket and it was perfect. I love everything about it.

 

Here it is without a belt. As you can see it is kinda a baby doll shape. I love it this way as well, and I think when I make a shorter one I will wear it without the belt more often.

 

That’s it. If you still need the Ogden cami pattern you can purchase it here. Let me know if you have any questions.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING SEWING FOR KIDS

INTRODUCING THE MINI EMERSON AND OGDEN PATTERNS

September 7, 2016

I am so excited to be showing you guys the Mini versions of both the Emerson and Ogden patterns today. I have to admit that these crop pants on little girls is my fav thing right now. Not only are they super comfy and good for transitioning to fall, but they are also different and unexpected and just cool. I’m obsessed and so is she.

Lets start with the Mini Emerson pattern. The construction is exactly like the women’s version. There are two views. View A is a wide leg crop pant that hits mid calf. It is great in mid weight fabrics such as linen, chambray, and even quilting cottons. It’s equally great is something lighterweight and flowy.

View B is a pair of shorts with an approximate 2 inch inseam. Just like the crop pants, they have front pleats, an elasticized back waistband and a flat front waistband. The pleats give a lot of fullness to the shorts and without the weight that the pants give, I recommend that the shorts be sewn up in something a little more light weight like rayon, double gauze, and lightweight linen.

The Ogden cami is a simple little pattern with a soft front V, and spaghetti straps over both shoulders. Unlike the women’s version, the kids version has a simple elastic back. This makes it easier to get on and off and move around in. It has a partial lining in the front to finish the neckline. It is best sewn up in lightweight woven fabrics like voile, lawn, double gauze, lightweight linen and rayon. Another plus is that it is an awesome stash buster as it takes minimal fabric. You can even do the lining out of another fabric if you just have a few scraps left over from another project.

I love the two of these pattern together. The simpleness of the Ogden cami is a great balance for the volume of the Emerson bottoms. Both patterns are very easy to sew up and good for beginners. The patterns cover sizes 2T to 10.

 

You can find both patterns, and more information about them, here. Use the code MINI20 for 20% one or both patterns through the end of the week (expiring Sunday 9/11 at midnight EST). Let me know if you have any more questions.

PATTERNMAKING SEWING

EMERSON AND OGDEN FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS

August 24, 2016

Today we are going to talk about fabric options for both the Ogden and Emerson patterns. I always love this part of the process because of all of the possibilities.

First let’s talk about the Emerson crop pants and shorts. Depending on what fabric you choose, the pattern could be very casual for everyday wear, or super dressy to wear with heels on a date night. The pattern is drafted for light to medium weight wovens such as linen, cotton, chambray, light weight denim and rayon challis. You could obviously use other types of fabric as well, I just recommend staying away from any heavy weight fabrics. Here are some fabrics that I think would work great.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 |16

 

Now for the Ogden cami. For this blouse you really want a fabric that is light and airy. Stay away from quilting cotton as it will be too stiff. The pattern recommends that you use crepe, rayon challis, voile and lightweight linen. My favorite fabric to make this up in is definitely silk crepe. The nice thing is that since this pattern takes such a small amount of fabric, you can use something a little more special like silk without breaking the bank.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16

I hope that helps. Let me now if you have any questions about fabric. I will be doing a quick sewalong for both patterns next week if you would like to follow along.