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March 12, 2018

Ever since releasing the Lander pants and shorts last year, I have been flooded with requests for a zipper option for this pattern. I am so excited to finally have it available for you with the Lander Zipper Expansion Pack.

If you have already sewn up the button fly option of the Lander pant, this expansion pack is perfect for you. I made sure to use as many of the same pattern pieces and instructions as possible so that this really is a natural extension of the original pattern. It is a bit more advanced than the button option, but I have provided detailed instructions, as well as some additional pattern pieces to make it as easy as possible.


One of my biggest pet peeves when sewing a zipper fly is shortening the zipper – especially metal ones. It’s the worst! So I made sure that all sizes use a standard size zipper (5″, 6″, or 7″). I prefer the metal jeans zippers, but you can also use the standard plastic ones if you prefer. The expansion pattern includes new pattern pieces for the right fly, left fly, and waistband, as well as a right fly extension to make sure that the zipper tucks into your pants nicely and is not visible when worn.

The expansion pack only comes as a pdf, but the print at home pattern is just 7 pages to tape, and there is a copy shop pattern included that works for both US and A0 printers.


Please note that you must have the original pdf or paper Lander pattern to make the zipper Landers. The expansion pack does not include all of the instructions or pattern pieces needed to complete the entire project.

You can find the pattern in my shop for purchase here.



February 8, 2018

Turtlenecks are making a huge comeback this season so it was not hard at all to find inspiration for the Nikko in shops and online. I love how so many of these images include high waisted pants and skirts. This combo is definitely my go to outfit right now.


View A

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5

View B

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5

View C

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5

View D

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5


I hope these gave you some good ideas. I know that I am dying to make a a middie version like you see in so many of these images. Blog post for that coming soon!

If you would like to purchase the Nikko pattern you can buy the pdf version here or the paper pattern here. I will be back early neck week with fabric ideas and recommendations and the sewalong will begin on Monday Feb. 19th.



February 5, 2018

I am so excited to introduce the newest True Bias sewing pattern, the Nikko Top and Dress. The Nikko is a mockneck knit pattern with four views. Views A and B are tops with a fitted silhouette that is perfect paired with high waisted pants (like the Landers) and skirts. Views B and C are ankle length dresses with a straighter fit through the waist and hips and side slits from the hem to the knee.

I have found the my Nikko tops have been my go to with winter layering. With lots of coverage but a slimmer fit, they are perfect under chunky cardigans and vests or tighter fitting jackets. It’s my winter tshirt. View A is sleeveless. The cut is similar to a racerback, but with just enough coverage to wear a regular bra. This view is especially great for transitional weather. View B is a long sleeved mock turtleneck. This is probably my most worn of all of my Nikkos. A simple black or striped long sleeved Nikko is perfect for almost any occasion. I love it with jeans for everyday, or tucked into a fitted short skirt with thick tights for something a bit more dressed up.

I love to wear my dress length Nikko with ankle booties and my leather jacket, although it’s also great with a maxi cardigan and a statement necklace. It fits with some ease in the waist and hips for some added comfort. It is not a body con dress. It’s flattering while still being easy to wear and move in.

The Nikko is an advanced beginner pattern. It’s super quick to make (think a tshirt without the difficult neckline) with the hardest part being hemming the knits. I suggest using some kind of knit hem tape such as HeatnBond soft stretch to make it easier, but we will go over that more during the sewalong. Fabrics for this pattern are knits with about 75% stretch. If you use fabric with less stretch than this you will have a hard time getting it over your head (I know from experience). I have found that my favorite fabric to use for the top is a bamboo knit. For the dress length I like a fabric that’s a bit less clingy so a rib knit is perfect for this. It has tons of stretch and recovery with the added thickness and coverage that the ribbing brings.

The Nikko Top and Dress is being released today as both a pdf and a paper pattern. You can find them both in my shop. I am also releasing the Ogden cami as a paper pattern today which you can find here.

I will be back during the next couple of weeks with ready-to-wear inspiration and also fabric recommendations. The official sewalong will begin in two weeks on Monday Feb. 19th.

I hope you love it as much as I do.



September 20, 2017

I am super excited to get started today on actually sewing up our Lander Pants and Shorts. If you havn’t done so already, go ahead and cut out all of your pattern pieces from your fabric. Make sure that you also transfer all marking from your pattern pieces to your fabric. There are quite a few ways to do this. Generally I just make a small snip for all notches and use my Chalk pen for everything else. It keeps it simple. The darts should be marked on the wrong side our your fabric, and the back pocket markings should be marked on the right side of your fabric.

OK, let’s get going.

Step 1 – Fuse your interfacing to the wrong side of the curved edge of the front pocket pieces, the waistband, and the left fly. Make sure that your fly looks like the diagram in your instructions with the interfacing facing up. Otherwise you might fuse it to the wrong side of the fly and then the left fly will be backwards.


Step 2 – Before sewing, make sure that you have the correct needle in your sewing machine. Especially if your fabric is on the heavier side, you are going to want to use a heavy duty or even a jeans sewing machine needle. It will really make a difference when you are sewing through multiple layers of fabric.

Sew the darts on both back pieces and press the excess in towards center back. I really like using a tailor’s ham when I press darts because it supports the bulge that you just sewed. You can also use a rolled up towel.


Step 3 – Prepare your back pockets by folding the top down by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and pressing.

Take the pressed edge and fold it again, right sides touching, at the two notches. Pin and press.


Step 4 – Starting at the top folded edge, backstitch and sew down one side of the pocket at 1/2” seam allowance. Once you get to the bottom corner, leave the needle down and pivot to sew along the bottom of the pocket, pivot again and sew up the other side. Backstitch at the end.

I know it is hard to make out in my navy fabric so here is a closeup of the top corner.

Clip the top corners to reduce bulk and flip the folded area right side out.

Once you turn the top, the two sides will begin folding in as well. Press each of the two side edges and bottom in at 1/2”, using the stitch line as a guide.


Step 5 – Make sure that the folded section on the top of the pocket is an even width and that each corner has a nice point. Pin and press. Edgestitch 1/8” from the fold.

Step 6 – Pin the side and bottom edges of the pockets to the back pant pieces where the markings indicate.

Judge me if you will, but I really like using a gluestick for this step. You can get fabric gluesticks or be like me and steal your kids washable gluestick from their art box. (I am going to edgestitch like the instructions tell you to do here, but I actually recommend that you baste the edges at this time and do the final edgestitching once you can try your pants on to make sure that you like the placement of the pockets). Edgestitch around the sides and bottom at 1/8”, backstitching at the beginning and end. Set your back pant pieces aside for now.


Step 7 – Trim about 1/16” off of the curved edge and two straight interior edges of the front pocket lining pieces. This will help the lining to roll to the inside after stitching, making sure it is not visible on the finished garment.



Step 8 – With right sides touching, pin the curved edge, and the two straight interior edges of each front pocket to its coordinating pocket lining. Since the lining is a bit smaller, the main pocket will bubble a bit. Don’t worry about that.

Stitch. Leave the top and outside edges unstitched. Don’t worry if it’s still pulling a bit at this time. Once turned right side out it will be fine.


Step 9 – Trim the stitched seams to reduce bulk. Clip the corner and curved edge so that they turn well.

Turn the pockets right side out and press. The lining should not be visible from the right side.

If you are still having problems with the lining being visible, you can pinch a bit of the lining out using a straight pin and then press. It will leave some extra fabric in the lining, but once it is all stitched down you won’t notice at all. It’s more important that you don’t see the lining on the front of the garment.

Edgestitch the curved edge of each front pocket at 1/4”. Press.


Step 10 – Pin the pockets to the fronts, matching notches.

Edgestitch around the two straight edges of the front pockets at 1/8”.

Increase your stitch length and baste the top and side of the pockets to the front pant just to make it easier when assembling the rest of the pant or short.


OK, that’s it for today. Lot’s of fun progress already. I hope you are loving how they turn out. Comment or email me with questions and tomorrow we will pick up where we left off and we will tackle the crotch and fly.




September 18, 2017

Hands down the most frequent email I get is about printing pdf patterns. I know that for some of you this is redundant, but indie sewing has come a long way in the four years I have been doing this, so I figured it was time for a refresher.

Download and Unzip

The first thing to remember when downloading your pattern is to do so on a computer and not a phone or ipad. I know that you may have been able to do so with other pattern designers, but all True Bias patterns are zipped and ipads and phones are not able to open zipped files. And if you try you will likely run out of your downloads. Once you are at a computer, download the pattern to a safe place (I like dropbox myself). If you don’t know where the file downloaded to you can always search your computer for “True Bias” and you should be able to find it. Next you need to unzip or extract the file. Once you do you will have a folder with all of the files in it.

Making Sense of the Files

Now that you have all of the files in front of you, what do they all mean? Let’s go through them all.


First you will look for the one with Instructions in the title. This is going to have all of the sizing, fabric layouts, and step by step instructions for sewing the pattern. It is set up to be printed on 8 1/2″ x 11″ paper on your home printer, but a lot of people choose to save on ink and just keep this on their computer, or email it to yourself so you can access it on your ipad or phone.

Copy Shop – A0 or US

Next look for the files labeled Copy Shop. These patterns are for those of you who do not want to tape together the pattern at home and want to send it to a copy shop so that it’s printed on one large sheet. There are two different types of Copy Shop files to choose from. If you are in the US use the US Copyshop files which will fit on the standard 36″ width of commercial printers and will be delivered in one long sheet. You can send it to Kinkos or Staples or your local print shop. Although if you have a week to wait for shipping, I highly recommend using PDF plotting. I put an order in with them every month or two for the next few projects I work on and it’s much cheaper than the alternative. Cashmerette has a great blog post on sending out Copy Shop files you should check out. I’ve also learned recently the Pattern Review will make print on demand Copy Shop files. Check out this post for more information.

If you are out of the US and your local printers use AO sizing then pick the AO Copy shop files. Just like the US version, you can send it to your local printer of choice. The files will fit into the standard 841mm x 1189mm size. Depending on the pattern these either come as one sheet or may come as multiple AO sized sheets that need to be taped along the top and bottom edges.

If you want to know the size of a Copy Shop pattern you can open it in Adobe Reader and move your cursor to the bottom left hand corner. The dimensions will pop up. You will need this when using an online printer so that you know what size paper to print it on.

For the Lander pant and short pattern, the Copy Shop files are divided into shorts (View A) or pants (Views B and C). You can print just one if you think you will sew only that view.

Since the Copy Shop files can be pricey, a lot of sewists choose to trace their pattern pieces at this point. This allows you to use the pattern again at a future date if you want to make another size or make adjustments.

Print at Home

The last option is the Print at Home Pattern. Use this if you want to print and assemble the pattern yourself. It is certainly the cheapest way to go. Yes, it takes some extra time, but I personally love being able to reprint the pattern if needed to down the line. And it’s pretty simple to do it once you get the hang of it.

Open the Print at Home file in Adobe Reader (it’s very reliable and free!). File -> Print. Your settings should look something like this.

My patterns are all black and white so you can check Print in Grayscale. Next, under pages to print, check All. Continuing down, under Paper and Sizing check Actual Size. This is very important. If you tell it to fit, it will make your whole pattern too small. Lastly, under Orientation you can leave it on Auto. Now you can print.

Tip: It’s not a bad idea to print off the first page by itself, measure the 3 x 3 inch square, and make sure everything is correct before printing the entire pattern.

Assembling Your Print at Home Pattern

If you chose to print your pdf pattern at home, you will need to print and assemble it. There are lots of ways you can do this, but here is the method that works for me. I take 5 pieces of paper at a time and trim the top and right sides off only.

If you don’t have a paper cutter you can do so with scissors, but if you think you will be assembling a lot of pdf patterns in your future, I highly recommend getting one.

Next, assemble the first row by by overlapping the the trimmed right edge of one piece of paper over the untrimmed left edge of the next piece.

You need to line up the gray circles and tape in place.

Once you make an entire row, set it aside and do the same thing to the next row.

Now tape the trimmed top edge of the second row over the untrimmed bottom of the first row. Match up those circles and tape into place. Continue to do this for the entire pattern until it is all assembled.

Every once in awhile you may find that something is off by 1/32″ here or there. That is inevitable. It may be an error when cutting or it might just be that your printer interpreted a line a bit differently than intended. Please don’t fret about it. That small amount of difference will not change the outcome of your finished garment. Instead, just interpret where the lines connect accurately and keep going. I promise it will be fine.


When choosing which size to cut out, refer to the sizing guide below or on your instructions.

Measure your full hip and natural waist (smallest part of your waist at the bellybutton). There is a bit of wiggle room in the hip (the seam allowances on the side seams are extra wide and there is a step in the instructions to baste and then adjust the fit of the side seams), but the waist measurement needs to be pretty close to accurate. If you need to grade between sizes or you think you will need to make other adjustments, wait to cut our your pattern pieces.

Tomorrow we will be covering the most common fit issues and how to solve them. In the meantime, if you need to purchase the Lander Pant and Short sewing pattern, you can do so here.