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MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

ROSCOE DRESS BEACH COVERUP

March 21, 2018

 

 

I have been wanting to use the Roscoe Dress sewing pattern to make a swim coverup for a long time. I decided to make it happen for Roscoe Month and found this perfect cotton/nylon crochet fabric from the Fabric Store. I love that it has the see through, floral look that you find with lace in general, but this feels a bit more casual and everyday because it’s cotton and geometric. I noticed that they have a few other colors as well – white, maroon, and cobalt blue.

 

 

 

 

For the purposes of this photoshoot, I layered the dress over a black Ogden cami that I lengthened into a slip dress. I think I will wear it this way quite a bit actually and I love that I can wear it for everyday or over a swimsuit for traveling.

 

 

Because of the fabric being crochet and having holes in it, I made a few changes. For the parts of the dress that need more fine tuned sewing, I used a black rayon fabric instead of the lace fabric for those areas such as the neckband, neck ties, and neck facing. For the hem and ruffle I also played around with the fabric. I knew that the hem would be tricky so I turned my pattern pieces and cut the hem along the selvage so I wouldn’t actually have the hem it. I also sewed the raw edges of the ruffle on the outside of the fabric instead of the inside. I like the way that ended up looking. Because lace generally doesn’t fray, this is a perfect time to use the seam allowance as a design detail.

 

 

Just a reminder that the Roscoe is on sale thru the end of the month with the code ROSCOEMONTH. I have three more versions of the Roscoe to show you before the end of the month so be prepared for that.

MAKES PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LANDER ZIPPER EXPANSION PACK

March 12, 2018

Ever since releasing the Lander pants and shorts last year, I have been flooded with requests for a zipper option for this pattern. I am so excited to finally have it available for you with the Lander Zipper Expansion Pack.

If you have already sewn up the button fly option of the Lander pant, this expansion pack is perfect for you. I made sure to use as many of the same pattern pieces and instructions as possible so that this really is a natural extension of the original pattern. It is a bit more advanced than the button option, but I have provided detailed instructions, as well as some additional pattern pieces to make it as easy as possible.

 

One of my biggest pet peeves when sewing a zipper fly is shortening the zipper – especially metal ones. It’s the worst! So I made sure that all sizes use a standard size zipper (5″, 6″, or 7″). I prefer the metal jeans zippers, but you can also use the standard plastic ones if you prefer. The expansion pattern includes new pattern pieces for the right fly, left fly, and waistband, as well as a right fly extension to make sure that the zipper tucks into your pants nicely and is not visible when worn.

The expansion pack only comes as a pdf, but the print at home pattern is just 7 pages to tape, and there is a copy shop pattern included that works for both US and A0 printers.

 

Please note that you must have the original pdf or paper Lander pattern to make the zipper Landers. The expansion pack does not include all of the instructions or pattern pieces needed to complete the entire project.

You can find the pattern in my shop for purchase here.

MAKES SEWING

ROSCOE MONTH VERSION ONE

March 6, 2018

 

March is Roscoe Month at True Bias. This means that I have 5 versions of the Roscoe pattern to share with you throughout the month, and both the pdf and paper versions of the pattern are 20% off with the code ROSCOEMONTH through the end of March.

This first Roscoe that I made up is this rayon crepe blouse that I am in love with. I made a few hacks to the pattern this time. First of all I lengthened the sleeves to be wrist length instead of 3/4. Since I didn’t want to worry about a sleeve placket, I simply exchanged the sleeve casing for a an elastic casing. I lengthened the whole sleeve about 4 inches and then straightened the bottom to make creating the elastic casing easier. I folded it 1/4″ and then 1/2″, stitching it leaving an opening for the elastic. Then I measured the elastic that would be comfortable at my wrist, fed it through the channel and sewed the ends together. Then I sewed up the opening that I had left. I love the drama of the full sleeve.

The other change that I made to this blouse, compared to the original pattern, is the hem. The original pattern has an easy straight hem. I thought I would play with it a bit so I cut a shirttail style hem where the front and back are longer and the sides are shorter. Because the shirt is so full it’s hard to tell, but I do think the end result it nice. It makes it a little more fluttery with the different lengths.

The fabric for this blouse is rayon crepe from my stash that I originally sourced from The Fabric Store. I have some black rayon crepe from them as well that I am hoping to make into a Roscoe Dress. I love rayon crepe. It has the easy wash and wear capabilities of rayon challis, but the crepe falls a bit heavier for a more dramatic look. It hugs your curves a bit more which is especially great on a full style like this one. I also love sewing up my Southport pattern in rayon crepe in the maxi length because it moves so beautifully when you walk.

That is it for now. I have more Roscoes  in the works that I can’t wait to show you guys.

MAKES SEWING

VALENTINES OGDEN / LEXI PJS

February 14, 2018

It is Valentines Day, so I thought it would be fun to sew up some new cute pjs for the occasion. I’ve been wanting to try out the Ogden cami as a pj top for a long time and so this seemed like the perfect excuse. I just needed to locate a cute bottom that I could pair it with.

After doing some digging around I decided to try out the Lexi boxers from Evie la Luve. Knowing that Hannah has a whole line of lingerie sewing patterns, I was pretty sure that the Lexi boxers would be the right style and I was right. They were cut and sewn within an hour and turned out great. I realized after cutting them out that I was supposed to cut them on the bias. Ooops. But luckily the fit was still good. I opted to omit the lace trim which did make the hemming a bit more tedious, but nothing crazy and I also did not add the buttons or bow to center front. They are short, but in the perfectly appropriate for night time kind of way.

I sewed these pjs up in the petals fabric from Workroom Social that I had leftover. The fabric is so great. Nice drape, but still not see through, and compared to my other rayon fabrics, this one hardly wrinkles at all. I have some black sandwashed rayon set aside for another pair once I get the time. And this time I won’t forget to cut the shorts on the bias.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER SUSPENDER HACK

February 12, 2018

 

I am so excited to share this super simple and super fun hack for the Lander pant pattern with you today. The best part about this hack is that you can add it to your existing Landers for one look and remove the straps to wear them as the original pants when you prefer.

The fabric for these Landers is from the Fabric Store in LA. It’s a navy twill that is just the perfect weight and structure for these pants. I am almost always drawn to black fabric, but for these pants I absolutely love changing it up to navy. It has more of that 70s vibe that I am into right now. I am wearing the Landers with a Nikko (view B) in a cream baby rib knit from JoAnns.

I don’t have step by step photos as this is so simple, but I will talk you through how I did it.

First I cut four long strips of fabric and interfaced each one so they wouldn’t stretch out. I wanted the finished suspenders to each be 35.5″ long and 1.5″ wide, so with seam allowance each strip was 36.5″ long and 2.5″ wide. This is of coarse personal preference. You will need to decide how long you want yours. I recommend sewing it longer than you think because you can always shorten them.

With right sides touching, sew two strips together leaving an opening to turn it right side out. Trim corners, and turn right side out. Repeat for second suspender.

Give it a good press making sure that all corners are sharp. Edgestitch around the outside of each suspender, closing up the opening you left at the same time.

With your finished Landers on, pin your suspenders so that they attach in the front and back where you want them to. I decided to have my front ones hit at the top of the pockets. In the back I crossed them and had them end about 3 inches out from center back on each side.

Now you need to sew buttonholes in each end of your suspenders and then hand sew the coordinating buttons to the inside waistband in the four spots your chose. Make sure that you don’t sew through your entire waistband or you will see the stitching on the outside. One tip I have is to choose very flat buttons so that you do not feel them on your waist when wearing it.

And that is it. Super simple and fun. I wore this outfit to a baby shower on Sunday and could not have felt more chic. You can find the Lander sewing pattern here and the Nikko pattern here. I hope you give it a try!