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SHELBY LACE BACK HACK

July 3, 2019

I wanted to share a really fun and easy hack for the Shelby dress and Romper. The lace up trend is back in a big way and the Shelby seemed like the perfect pattern to use to try it out.

I am going to be sewing up the dress version but shortening it a bit for more of a middi length. If you decide to go for a middi length in this pattern I do recommend shortening the long views instead of lengthening the short views since the longer views have a bit less width to keep normal fabric widths into account. If you simply lengthen the shorter views the circumference of your pattern pieces will get quite large at the bottom and make them hard to cut out.

For fabric I am using some beautiful rayon challis gifted to me from the online Fabric Store. As of when I am writing this it is still in stock and you can find it here. I love rayon challis for the Shelby because of it’s great drape and this fun print is large scale which is hard to find.

The first thing to take into account when cutting out your Shelby is that your ties will be one long tie instead of two. You simply place the pattern piece on a fold at the short end and cut out one long tie. Sew it up according to the normal instructions.

Next, you need to cut out two strips of fabric which will become your loops. Cut two 1.25″ x 18″ strips of fabric.

With right sides touching, sew them up with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to about 1/8″ and turn right side out using a loop turner or small safety pin.

Press your tubes flat.

Get your center back piece. I am sewing up a dress view so it’s on the fold but if you are sewing up a romper view, make sure it is already sewn up along the center back.

You should already have one set of markings for the original tie placement. We are going to use those markings and add two more sets above the original. You could add more if you wanted.

I decided to place my markings for loop placement 2 1/2″ apart. You can have them closer or further according to your preference.

These markings are for the center points of your loops. Make another set of markings 1 inch out from the cut edge, at each loop marking. This second marking is for the turn of each loop should hit.

Pin generously so that the tube is centered over the markings with about 1/4″ on each side and turning at the second 1″ marking.

Once you feel confident that they all evenly looped, baste in place at 1/2″ seam allowance.

If all still looks good, sew the side back to the center back, sandwiching the loops inbetween.

Trim loop seam allowance.

Finish seam allowance in your desired manner and press seam allowances towards side back.

Repeat for other side until you have matching loops on both sides.

To lace up the loops, pull the long tie through the loops so that it is centered along the top two loops.

Continue to lace it up just like a sneaker and tie in a bow at the bottom.

Sew the rest of the garment up according to your instructions.

I love how mine turned out! You can find the Shelby pattern here.

MAKES SEWING

ZADIE JUMPSUITS

June 6, 2019

Like just about everyone else in the sewing community, I fell hard for the Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns. I’ve made three in all and am trying to not give in to making a fourth. It’s that good.

I think the thing I like the most about the Zadie Jumpsuit is how easy it is to wear. I find that it truly is one of those items that you can dress up or down. I keep grabbing them every time I travel along with flats for daytime and wedges / statement jewelry for going out at night.

This first version is sewn up in a black cupro rayon / linen blend from Blackbird Fabrics. I am loving cupro right now because it has a nice expensive sheen to it, but with the ease of care and simple sewing of a linen.

I did have to make quite a few adjustments to the pattern. I sized down one whole size and still ended up taking some width out of the hips. I also took an inch out of the bodice length, and inch out of the rise and and inch out of the pant length. I am 5’3″ so that is not surprising.

This second version is sewn up in some rayon crepe gifted to me from The Fabric Store. It has a deconstructed dot pattern that feels a little hand drawn which I love.

Rayon crepe is one of my favorite fabrics to sew with right now. It has a great weight to it which adds a bit of drama, but it is still easy to sew and take care of. They have a lot great rayon crepes right which are worth checking out.

For the shorts version all I did was was shorten the pattern to about the knee, and then once I was finished sewing the rest of the pattern I tried it on. Then I marked where I wanted it hemmed all the way around the leg and was able to shorten it evenly that way.

I love the way that my Zadies turned out and love wearing them. You can find the pattern at Paper Theory if you want to sew one up for yourself.

MAKES SEWALONG SEWING

FINISHED SHELBYS FROM SEWALONG

June 4, 2019

I hope you all found the Shelby Sewalong from last week helpful. I was able to find some time to get those two Shelbys photographed and wanted to show them to you.

This first Shelby is View A with the traditional longer sleeve. I used some beautiful rayon crepe from the Sewing Studio in Oregon.

I love the burnt orange color and large scale floral design.

The second Shelby is View C, the short romper, with the shorter cap sleeve.

I sewed this version up in a small daisy print that I bought from Blackbird Fabrics.

I’ve surprised myself with how much I am gravitating towards ditsy flower prints for the Shelby. The 90s flare of the design really lends itself to these types of fabric in my opinion.

That’s it. Super simple post. If you want to purchase the Shelby Dress and Romper pattern for yourself you can do so here.

MAKES SEWING

SILK SUKI FOR SEW FROSTING

November 28, 2018

I  bought this silk crepe fabric over a year ago specifically to make a Suki kimono and I am so glad that I finally did. I am obsessed with it. It’s everything I hoped for and feels so luxurious to wear when I am getting ready in the morning. I am a big fan of robes so this is my third to make so far. All three get tons of wear.

 The fabric is a paneled watercolor floral of in silk crepe de chine that I bought at Mood. The edges were black so I was able to use those bits of fabric for the neck band, ties and sleeve cuffs. I really like how that helps the cool design details to pop. It also gives a more modern edge to the floral fabric.

 I really loved sewing this pattern. It was just challenging enough to keep it interesting and feel like I was learning new things, but easy enough to stay stay enjoyable. The instructions are great and I love the small design elements like the neck band detail which help this pattern to stand out.

I keep thinking about how great this would be as a holiday gift for someone special. Although I might not sew it in silk again because I’m not sure how this will wash. I think a rayon or voile would be perfect for my next one.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

BODY CON MIDDI NIKKO DRESS TUTORIAL

September 28, 2018

 

The original Nikko pattern includes pattern pieces for a top (with or without sleeves) that is fitted, and a dress that is straighter through the waist and hips. I wanted to combine the two for a Nikko dress that is more body con like the top is. It’s a very easy hack so I thought I would share.

First of all you will use the top pattern pieces instead of the dress one since it has the more fitted waistline. I decided to use the sleeved version, but this would just as easily work for the sleeveless one. The only pattern pieces that you will be adjusting is the front and back. The neckband and also the sleeves or sleeve facings stay the same.

All you are going to do is lengthen the center front and center back straight down as those are cut on the fold. For the side seams you want to gradually angle it in about an inch so that it is fitted at mid calf. How long you extend it is up to you, but I would say somewhere between 20-30 inches from the original hem.

Once you have cut and sewn the Nikko according the the instructions, I find it really helpful to try the dress on inside out and mark any areas that I want to pull in a bit and make adjustments. I then hemmed it using fusible knit tape like the pattern suggests. Because the pattern calls for really stretchy knits you don’t actually need a slit at the hem, just make sure that you use a very forgiving stretch stitch to finish it.

Let’s talk a bit about fabric. I used a thick ribknit from The Fabric Store for this. I think that the thickness really is key to a body con dress so that it has more coverage. Rib knits are especially good for this. They kind of hide any lines or bumps that you may not want to draw attention to.

That’s it! Super easy hack for a fun dress. Can’t wait to wear it for date night.