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True Bias

SEWALONG

NIKKO SEWALONG DAY 4 – HEMS AND SLITS

February 22, 2018

Today we are going to finish up your Nikko top or dress by hemming them finishing up the side slits for the dress views.

Step 15 – Turn the hemline up by 1” (2.5 cm). Pin and press. I am using some fusible knit tape to prevent stretching out the hem which you can see below.

 

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. I like to use my twin stretch needle for my tops because the stitching is pretty visible on these thinner knits. I think that the twin needle looks really professional.

And that is it. Views A & B are finished!

Now, if you are sewing up Views C or D (the dress views) then we are going to finish up the side slits and hem.

Step 16 – If you havn’t already, press the side seam allowances open above the dot and continue to press it open below the dot and pin in place so that it is an even 3/4” on each side. It is very important that this stitching does not stretch out as you sew it. I chose to use the heat n bond soft stretch to help, but I also decreased the tension on my sewing machine which seemed to do the trick. Practice with scrap fabric until it looks right for you.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, edgestitch around the three sides of each slit, pivoting at the corners and stitching just above the large dot as pictured. I went with an elongated stretch stitch for this as I find that with the ribknit fabric the stitches pretty much disappear into the thickness.

 

Step 17 – Turn the hemline of the front dress up by 1” (2.5cm). Pin and press. If using a stabilizing knit tape apply here as well. You do not want the stitching to stretch out the fabric or you will end up with a fish tail effect at the bottom.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. (If your fabric is very stretchy, you may want to consider using some fusible knit tape to stabilize the hem before stitching.) Repeat for back hemline.

Congrats, Views C & D are finished!

 

Let me know if you have any questions and please tag your versions with #nikkotop or #nikkodress so that I can see them.

SEWING

NIKKO SEWALONG DAY 3 – VIEWS B & D SIDESEAMS AND SLEEVES

February 21, 2018

Today we are going to sew up the side seams and the sleeves for Views B and D (the sleeved versions) of the Nikko Top and Dress.

Step 12 – With right sides touching, pin one sleeve to the coordinating armhole edge of the garment, matching notches. First match the top shoulder notch of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the garment.

Next match up the front and back sleeve and armhole notches. It’s hard to photograph since it gets all scrunched up in this step, but you get the idea. If you are an experienced sewist you should be able to sew it up with just these pins, but if you are more beginner feel free to add more pins in for guidance.

Sew using a stretch stitch or serge like I did. Press seam allowances towards the sleeve. Repeat for other sleeve.

 

Step 13 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at sides, continuing to pin sleeve underarm edges together. Make sure the lower edges of the garment and sleeve align, and that the underarm seams match up.

For View B (top), stitch from the wrist to the hem in one continuous seam. This can be done on a serger or stretch stitch on your regular machine. If using a stretch stitch press seam open. If serging like I did, press seam allowance to the back of the garment.

For View D (dress), sew from the wrist down to the large dot in one continuous seam and backstitch at the dot. Be sure to stitch straight down to the dot at the slit and not follow the curve at that point. Press seam allowances open. (Note that for View D, this step must be done on a sewing machine and not a serger to accommodate the slit. If you want to finish the raw edges on a serger, finish the front and back edges separately and then sew together with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. I chose to just leave them raw.)

 

Step 14 – Now it’s time to finish the sleeves by hemming them. This is where I like to use some sort of fusible knit tape to stabilize the seam before stitching. Since the fabric used on this pattern has so much stretch, I often get wavy seams. My tape of choice is the HeatnBond Soft Stretch because it’s easy to find, but I am sure there are other similar products or tricks out there for hemming slinky knits. You can see the clear tape on the bottom of my top here.

Turn the lower edge of each sleeve up by 1” (2.5cm). Pin and press.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from each folded sleeve hem to secure. With this pattern, I have found that I like to use a double needle for thinner fabrics like this bamboo jersey because you see the stitching. For thicker fabrics like sweater knits or rib knits I prefer a regular zigzag stitch (2 length and 3 width) because the stitching disappears into the thickness of the fabric.

That’s it for today! Tomorrow we will finish up with hemming and side slits.

SEWALONG

NIKKO SEWALONG DAY 2 – VIEWS A & C SIDESEAMS AND ARMHOLES

February 20, 2018

Today we are going to finish up the side seams and the armholes for Views A and C of the Nikko which are the sleeveless versions. If you are sewing Views B or D (with sleeves) you can take a break and wait for tomorrow.

Step 7 – With right sides touching and matching notches, pin the front to the back at sides.

Sew side seams with a stretch stitch. For View A, sew from the armhole to the hem, backstitching at both ends.

For View C (shown), sew from the armhole to the large dot and backstitch. Make sure that you sew straight down to the dot and not follow the curve of the slit. It should look like this:

Press seam allowances open.

Note that for View C this step must be done on a sewing machine and not a serger to accomodate the slit. If using a serger, you may choose to finish the front and back edges separately and then sew the seam together with a stretch stitch on the sewing machine. Since knit fabric does not generally fray, I decided to not serge the edges in order to reduce any bulk.

 

Step 8 – You will notice that for the armhole facings, I am using a different fabric than my main dress fabric. If your fabric is a bit bulky like mine I recommend doing this as it will reduce any bulk in that area. You just have to be extra careful that none of your facing peeks out once you turn it under and stitch in the following steps.

With right sides touching, sew the short ends of the armhole facing together. Press seam allowances open if using a regular machine or to one side if using a serger.

With wrong sides touching, fold the armhole facing in half, aligning the long raw edges, and matching up the seam. Press.

Divide the armhole facing into quarters in the same manner as the neckband, placing pins at each quarter matchpoint.

 

Step 9 – Like you did for the neckline, divide the garment armhole into quarters, placing pins at each quarter matchpoint.

 

Step 10 – With right sides touching, pin the armhole facing to the garment armhole, bringing quarter matchpoints together. Add more pins if desired.

Sew the armhole seam using a stretch stitch or serger, stretching the armhole facing evenly between matchpoints to fit into the garment armhole as it is a bit smaller.

 

Step 11 – Turn your garment inside out. Pull the armhole facing to the inside of the garment. Pin and press so that the armhole seam is rolled slightly towards the inside of the garment to make it less visible on the right side. I like it to roll about 1/16″ to the inside to make sure that you don’t see it when right side out. This is especially important if your armhole facing is a different color like mine is.

Stitch along the fold of the facing to secure it to the garment using a stretch stitch. Press.

That is it for today! If you are sewing up the sleeveless top you are almost done. Come back tomorrow for the side seams and sleeves of Views B and D, and then on Thursday we will finish up the hems and side slits. In the meantime, let me know if you have any questions.

 

 

SEWALONG

NIKKO SEWALONG DAY 1 – SHOULDERS AND NECKBAND

February 19, 2018

Welcome to day 1 of the Nikko Top and Dress Sewalong. Today we will be sewing up the shoulders and also attaching the neckband. These steps are for all views. Before starting you need to decide how you will be sewing up your garment. For the steps today I will be using a serger, but you could just as easily use a stretch stitch or an elongated zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine. If using an elongated stretch stitch, I recommend the settings of 2.5 length and 1 width, but you should practice on your fabric to see what works best for you. Also, be sure to use a ballpoint needle to protect your fabric from damage.

 

Step 1 – With right sides touching, pin the front to the back at the shoulder seams.

To prevent the shoulder seams from stretching, cut two pieces of 1/4” (6 mm) clear elastic to the length of each shoulder seam. If you can’t find clear elastic you can use regular elastic or even selvage in a pinch. This is important in stretchy fabrics to not only protect the shoulder seams from stretching out over time, but also to make sure it doesn’t stretch when sewing it. If you cut the pieces to the correct length before sewing, you know that you have not stretched out the seam during construction.

Align the long edge of the elastic with the shoulder seam (centered over the stitching line, not the raw edge), pinning to secure. With the elastic facing up, sew the shoulder seams through all layers using a stretch stitch. (NOTE: the elastic should be caught in the seam.) Do not stretch the elastic as you sew the seam. Press seam allowances towards the back of the garment.

 

Step 2 – With right sides touching, sew the short ends of the neckband together along the center back seam.

Press seam allowances open if on your regular machine, or to one side if you are serging like me. With wrong sides touching, fold the neckband in half, aligning the raw edges, and matching up the center back seam. Press. If you want to you can baste the bottom together at this point to make attaching the neckband to the top a bit easier. I usually don’t though.

 

Step 3 Divide the neckband into quarters by first placing pins at center front and center back along the lower raw edge. I know it is hard to see my pins because they are white, but if you look closely you should be able to make them out.

Then fold the neckband in half by bringing the center front pin to the center back seam and pin. Place a pin at each fold along the lower raw edge. Your neckband should now be divided into four equal sections along the bottom.

 

Step 4 – Using the same technique from step 3, divide the garment neckline into quarters. First, place pins at center front and center back.

Then bring center front to match up with center back, and place pins at the folds. Because the front neckline is longer than the back neckline, these pins should land about 1/2″ away from the shoulder seam inside of the front neckline.

 

Step 5 – With the garment still inside out, insert the neckband into the neck opening so that the right sides of the neckband and garment are touching. Line up the quarter pin markings of the neckband with those of the neckline, being extra careful that the center back, center front, and side markings are all coordinating. Note that the neckband is slightly smaller than the garment neckline so it will pull a bit. Feel free to add in extra pins to make it easier to sew in the next step.

 

Step 6 – Sew the neckline seam using a stretch stitch or a serger, stretching the slightly smaller neckband evenly between matchpoints to fit into the garment neckline. It is very important that this stitch has good stretch so that it can fit over your head.

Press the neckband up and the seam allowances down towards the garment.

And that is it for today! Easy right? I feel like sewing a turtleneck is like sewing up a tshirt without the hard neckline. Tomorrow we will tackle side seams and armbands for the sleeveless version.

SEWING

NIKKO TESTER ROUNDUP

February 16, 2018

I know that when a new pattern releases that it’s always fun to see the garment on different types of bodies. So this time around I decided to put together a little roundup of a few of my testers in their Nikkos. I love and appreciate my testers so much! They always do an amazing job and I couldn’t do it without them. You can click on their names to take you to their blogs or instagram so that you can follow them and see more of their amazing makes. These ladies rock.

Heidi of Handmade Frenzy

 

Tiffany Lano 

 

Teri of Fa Sew La

 

Heather of Heather Handmade

 

Meg of Cookin and Craftin

 

Star of Well Fibre

 

Jen of Desert Blooms

 

Helen of Helen’s Closet

 

Bonnie of Bonnie and Blithe

 

Sara of The Sara Project

 

That is it for now. The sewalong for the Nikko starts on Monday. I hope you will join us!