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True Bias

SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 2 – ASSEMBLING THE FRONT / BACK / SHOULDER

June 5, 2018

Today is going to be a pretty short day compared to yesterday. I goal is to get all of the fronts, backs, and sides attached into one big piece. All of the steps today work for all views. I am sewing the sleeved, short length jumpsuit for reference. Lets get started.

 

Step 13 (All Views) – With right sides touching, pin the side edge of the center front to the side front, matching notches.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance.  You are securing the edges of the pockets and the optional ties at this point so be extra careful that these are lined up correctly before sewing over them. Trim seam allowances to 1/4″ and finish in your desired manner. I am serging. Serging is nice because you can trim the seam allowance and finish the edges in one long swoop, but using pinking shears or zigzagging is fine too.

Press seam allowances towards the center front.

Topstitch the center front 1/8” from the seam line on the right side of your jumpsuit, catching the seam allowance underneath.

 

Step 14 – Repeat step 13 for the center back and side back.

 

Step 15 – With right sides touching, pin the two assembled back pieces together along the center back. Stitch the center back seam. Trim seam allowances to 1/4” and finish in your desired manner. If your fabric is on the sturdier side, you may want to clip the curved area a bit to prevent any pulling. I find, however, that trimming to 1/4″ is sufficient in most medium to light weight fabrics.

Press seam open or to one side if you serged like I did.

 

Step 16 – With right sides touching, pin the front and back shoulder seams together.

Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish seam allowanced in your desired manner and press seam allowances open or towards the back if serged.

 

That’s it for today! See you back here tomorrow.

 

SEWALONG SEWING

YARI JUMPSUIT SEWALONG DAY 1 – FACINGS / POCKETS / D RINGS

June 4, 2018

Welcome to day 1 of the Yari Jumpsuit Sewalong. I am so excited to get started. I hope you have your pattern assembled and your fabric cut out and ready to go. Make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. Also, mark the dots for the D-ring ties on the front side and back side pieces if you are sewing that option.

 

Step 1 – Fuse your interfacing to the wrong side of the front neck facing, the back neck facing, and 1/4” down from the upper edge of the pocket pieces as shown below.

Here is a close up of where you are placing the interfacing for the pocket edge.

 

Step 2 – Staystitch the neckline on the center front and center back pieces at 3/8” seam allowance from the top edge towards the bottom.  I know that a lot of people skip staystitching, but it really does make a difference. I have found that if I don’t staystitch the front next edge it will bag out and be hard to attach to the facing. If your fabric has a looser weave you might even staystitch the neck facing edges although I generally find that the interfacing is sufficient in a medium weight woven fabric.

Here is a closeup since it’s hard to see.

For sleeveless views A & C, also staystitch the armholes on the side front and side back pieces at a scant 1/4” seam allowance from the top of the armhole down.

 

Step 3 With right sides touching, pin and sew the shoulder seams of the front and back neck facings at 1/2″.

You can finish the seam allowance here in your desired manner, although it will not be exposed so it’s not necessary. I decided to skip it here. Press seams open or towards the back (if serging the seam allowance).

 

Step 4 – Finish the outside edge of your assembled neck facing in your desired manner. I am serging it to keep it simple. You do not need to finish the bottom or inside edges. Set the facing aside for now.

 

Step 5 – Fold the top edge of one pocket down,wrong sides touching, by 1/4″ and press. This is along the top edge of the fused interfacing.

Fold again, wrong sides touching, at 7/8”, and press. This along the bottom edge of the fused interfacing.

Edgestitch, the lower folded edge and the top edge. I stitch at about 1/8″ from the folded edges, but the distance is up to you. I just recommend being consistent as there is a lot of topstitching in this pattern and you want it to match.

Here is a closeup of the back.

Here is a closeup of the front.

For the pant version (views C and D), fold the bottom edge of the pocket up by 1/2”, wrong sides touching, and press. Repeat step 5 with remaining pocket.

 

Step 6 – With right sides facing up, pin the pocket to the side front panel, matching notches, with raw edges even. For the short version, the bottom raw edge of the pocket will line up with the bottom of the side front panel.

For the pant version, the pocket will align with the middle set of notches. Pin in place. Edgestitch along the bottom folded edge of the pocket for the pant version.

For all views, baste along the side edges at 1/4” to secure.

Optional D-Ring Ties (If you are not adding the ties, you are done for today and can skip ahead to step 13 tomorrow.)

Step 7 – With right sides touching, fold each front and back tie piece in half lengthwise. Pin and stitch the long edge at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim seam allowance to 1/4”.

 

Step 8 – Turn ties right side out using a loop turner or safety pin.

Press and Edgestitch along both long edges.

 

Step 9 – Fold in one raw edge of each shorter tie by 1/4” and press. Fold again by 1/2” and press.

Insert two D rings and insert them into the loop created by the fold and pin. Edgestitch along the fold to secure the D rings into the tie. It is sometimes easiest to move your needle over so that you can stitch close to the edge but also keep the D rings far enough from the presserfoot.

 

Step 10 – Fold one raw edge of each longer tie in by 1/4”, and then again by 3/8”.

Stitch along the folded edge to secure.

 

Step 11 – Pin one back (longer) tie to the right side of each side back, centering the raw end over the dot so the raw edges match up. Baste to secure. (The wrong side of the tie should be facing up.)

 

Step 12 – Pin one front tie (tie with the D rings) to the right side of each side front piece, centering the raw end over the dot so the raw edges match up. Baste to secure. (The right side of the tie should be facing up.)

That is it for today! Check back in tomorrow for the next steps.

SEWALONG SEWING

FABRIC AND NOTIONS FOR THE YARI JUMPSUIT

May 31, 2018

With the Yari Jumpsuit sewalong started next week, I wanted to go ahead and talk a bit about fabric choices and notions in case you want to get everything together.

First lets talk fabric. By far, my favorite fabric for the Yari is a linen or linen blend. I just think that the look and texture of linen lends itself perfectly to a jumpsuit. And as a bonus it’s easy to care for, easy to sew with, and cool in warm weather. The negatives to linen is that it can be scratchy or rough against the skin, and it wrinkles. If these two things worry you, I recommend trying out a linen blend. I especially love a good linen / rayon blend as it cuts down on the wrinkling significantly and softens the fabric. Below are a few linen and linen blends that would work really well for the Yari.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9

 

Linen is certainly not the only option though. Any kind of medium weight woven fabric works great. I have tried rayon challis, chambray, and silk noil, all with great success. Below are a few linen alternative fabrics that would be great options.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9

 

Besides fabric, you will need a few notions. You need to some light to medium weight fusible interfacing to apply to the facings and the tops of the pockets. You will of coarse want some coordinating thread. There is a lot of topstitching in this project so getting a close match to the color of your fabric is a huge plus.

You are also going to want to get 5 – 1/2″ buttons for the center front closure. If you are adding length to the body of the jumpsuit, keep in mind that you may want to purchase and extra button.

If you are sewing the sleeveless option, you are going to need 1/2″ single fold bias tape. You can either make your own or just buy the store bought stuff like I did. Your choice.

Lastly, if you are adding in the optional D ring ties, make sure that you purchase 4 – 3/4″ D rings. You should be able to find a few different finishes for these in your big box store, although I am sure there are great vintage ones to be found on etsy or ebay. If for some reason you can only find the 1″ D rings, no worries. Just make your ties a bit wider to compensate.

 

The Yari Sewalong starts on Monday. I will not be going over printing and assembling you pattern, cutting out your fabric, making adjustments, or markings. If you want a refresh on printing your pattern, check out the following post from a past post – Printing / Assembling.

The Yari Sewalong will happen as follows:

Day 1 (Monday June 4) – Facings / Pockets / D Ring Ties

Day 2 (Tuesday June 5) – Assembling the Front / Back / Shoulder Seams

Day 3 (Wednesday June 6) – Neck Facing / Side Seams / Crotch

Day 4 (Thursday June 7) – Armhole Finishes

Day 5 (Friday June 8) – Buttons / Buttonholes / Hems

Wide Leg Hack (Tuesday June 12)

Long Tie Hack (Thursday June 14)

 

Excited to get get started on Monday!

SEWING

INTRODUCING THE YARI JUMPSUIT!

May 29, 2018

I am thrilled to be sharing my newest pattern, the Yari Jumpsuit, with you guys. I am releasing it today as a pdf, but the printed patterns are in the works and I will be selling those as well as soon as they are in stock. (Check my Instagram account for updates on that.)

The Yari has four views, so lots of options depending on your preference. There are shorts versions with an approximated 3 inch inseam and also tapered pants options that hit just above the ankle. In either the pants or shorts versions you can choose to do a sleeveless jumpsuit that is finished with bias tape, or an extended sleeve with a sleeve band.

The jumpsuit has a relaxed princess seam on both the front and back which not only makes it super easy for fit adjustments if necessary, but it also gives you the option to add 3/4″ D ring ties into the seams to accentuate the waistline.

Patch pockets are also added into the princess seams with topstitching that mimics the rest of the jumpsuit.

As with all of my women’s patterns, the Yari is drafted for someone who is 5’5″ tall, but there are two sets of markings to help with adjustments if necessary.

My favorite fabric to use for this pattern is definitely linen or linen blends because the texture and look of linen pairs so nicely with this style and for wearing in the hot summer months. But really any medium weight woven fabric is great. I have used silk noil, rayon challis, and chambrays with great success.

I will be having a sewalong with the Yari very soon for those who want a little extra help. I will be talking fabric and notions later this week, but actual sewing starts next Monday, June 4th and extends through the week. I also have two really great hacks planned right after that which I am dying to show you.

You can get the pdf version of the Yari Jumpsuit for 20% off through the end of this week by entering the code YARILAUNCH at checkout. Click here to go straight to the shop.

I hope you love it!

 

SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER INSIDE POCKET TUTORIAL

April 27, 2018

Today I want to share a simple hack for the Lander Pants and Shorts where you can flip the pockets to the inside instead of the patch pocket which comes standard with the pattern. And one great thing is that you can do it using the same pattern pieces. You use either the standard button front pattern like I did or the zipper expansion pack.

Cut all pattern pieces out as normal except for the Front Pant / Short and Front Pocket and Lining.

Place your Front Pocket pattern piece on top of your Front Pant / Short pattern piece, lining up the notches.

Trace the curve of the Front Pocket onto the Front Pant / Short.

Cut out two lining pieces using the standard Front Pocket pattern piece.

Trim the Front Pant / Short pattern piece along the curved marking that you made.

Tape the top piece to the Front Pocket pattern piece.

Cut out two of this altered Front Pocket pattern from your main fabric.

Cut out two Front Pant / Shorts with your new Front pattern piece.

Fuse the pocket fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the lining.

With right sides touching, pin and sew the curved edge of the Front Pant / Short to the Pocket Lining.

Trim seam allowance and clip / notch.

Flip the lining to the inside along the curved edge and press. Make sure the the lining is cheated slightly towards the inside so that it is not visible when worn.

Topstitch at 1/4″ from the curved edge.

Pin the right side of the Front Pocket piece (cut out of the main fabric) to the right side of the Pocket Lining along the two straight edges. Make sure the you are not pining it to the Front Pant / Short.

Stitch the two straight edges and finish seam allowances in your desired manner.

The pocket should be assembled, but still free from the Front Pant / Short except for the curved edge.

Pin and baste all layers along the top and side edges. That’s it, assemble the rest of your Landers according the the instructions.

Both the light wash denim and the heart cotton print for the lining are from the Fabric Store. The denim is the perfect vintage wash that I have been looking for and since it is about 11oz and non stretch, it was a great match for the Landers.

Here I am wearing my new pants. Admittedly I made them a tad too tight which is why I am standing so awkward. Hopefully I will fit into them at some point because I LOVE them. I am wearing them here with a sleeveless Nikko Top sewn up in rib knit from IndieSew.