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True Bias

SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER INSIDE POCKET TUTORIAL

April 27, 2018

Today I want to share a simple hack for the Lander Pants and Shorts where you can flip the pockets to the inside instead of the patch pocket which comes standard with the pattern. And one great thing is that you can do it using the same pattern pieces. You use either the standard button front pattern like I did or the zipper expansion pack.

Cut all pattern pieces out as normal except for the Front Pant / Short and Front Pocket and Lining.

Place your Front Pocket pattern piece on top of your Front Pant / Short pattern piece, lining up the notches.

Trace the curve of the Front Pocket onto the Front Pant / Short.

Cut out two lining pieces using the standard Front Pocket pattern piece.

Trim the Front Pant / Short pattern piece along the curved marking that you made.

Tape the top piece to the Front Pocket pattern piece.

Cut out two of this altered Front Pocket pattern from your main fabric.

Cut out two Front Pant / Shorts with your new Front pattern piece.

Fuse the pocket fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the lining.

With right sides touching, pin and sew the curved edge of the Front Pant / Short to the Pocket Lining.

Trim seam allowance and clip / notch.

Flip the lining to the inside along the curved edge and press. Make sure the the lining is cheated slightly towards the inside so that it is not visible when worn.

Topstitch at 1/4″ from the curved edge.

Pin the right side of the Front Pocket piece (cut out of the main fabric) to the right side of the Pocket Lining along the two straight edges. Make sure the you are not pining it to the Front Pant / Short.

Stitch the two straight edges and finish seam allowances in your desired manner.

The pocket should be assembled, but still free from the Front Pant / Short except for the curved edge.

Pin and baste all layers along the top and side edges. That’s it, assemble the rest of your Landers according the the instructions.

Both the light wash denim and the heart cotton print for the lining are from the Fabric Store. The denim is the perfect vintage wash that I have been looking for and since it is about 11oz and non stretch, it was a great match for the Landers.

Here I am wearing my new pants. Admittedly I made them a tad too tight which is why I am standing so awkward. Hopefully I will fit into them at some point because I LOVE them. I am wearing them here with a sleeveless Nikko Top sewn up in rib knit from IndieSew.

SEWING SEWING FOR KIDS

CAROLINE PARTY DRESS IN LARGE FLORAL

April 4, 2018

I try to make my daughter a “fancy” dress every spring that she can wear for all of the events around that time. It is kinda a birthday / easter / spring concert / graduation dress. This year we decided to try out the Caroline dress from Mouse House Creations because we had such a great experience with her Janie Dress pattern over the winter.

This dress pattern is a pretty good compromise for us. It has a modern, simple silhouette for me, but has the fullness in the skirt section that makes my daughter happy. It’s a good inbetween dress for that 8/9 yr old age where they are still little girls so you want something that feels young enough, but it doesn’t have the frills and bows that would be more appropriate for a toddler.

It was a very simple and easy sew. I lined the bodice and skirt with some maroon cotton which made the inside of the dress really pretty and also added some fullness to the skirt. It also has optional pockets which we of coarse added.

The fabric for the main dress is some gorgeous cotton lawn from LaMercerie. I bought it for a robe awhile back, but thought it would be perfect for this dress. It’s a very sophisticated looking floral and the large scale is really nice on the fullness of the skirt.

We are both very happy with how this dress turned out. It’s always nice to sew up a quick and pretty girls dress every once in awhile to cleanse the palette.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

MAXI LENGTH ROSCOE HACK

March 28, 2018

I have been wanting to create this hack every since I saw a similar ready-to-wear one last summer. It’s pretty much the boho Roscoe dress of my dreams. I don’t really know where I am actually going to wear it. It’s a statement piece for sure, but I am excited to figure that out.

This is a pretty straight forward hack. I knew that there was going to be a lot of volume by the time I added an extra ruffle, so I decided to go down two sizes for a bit slimmer fit in the top. I am petite so I didn’t want it to overwhelm me. The Roscoe has a lot of ease in it. Even two sizes down, I still have plenty of room.

I also lengthened the sleeves. I loved how it worked for my Roscoe blouse earlier in the month so I thought I would try it again. All I did was lengthen the sleeves by 4-5 inches, straightened the bottom, and added an elastic casing. I like it be about 1 inch longer than my wrist to give a bit of billowing.

Other than that, the only change I made was to add an extra ruffle to the bottom of View C. I made sure to cut the bottom ruffle wider than the first ruffle so that it could be gathered onto the first one. I didn’t worry too much about the ruffles being the same length, I just added it and then hemmed the last ruffle once I was all done. I made sure to hem it short enough that I could wear this dress with heels or flat sandals to dress it down a bit.

I used two coordinating rayon crepe prints that I bought in a bundle off of etsy. It has a black background with cinnamon colored geometric shapes. I love how using the two different prints really highlighted the design lines. It would be fun to make it again with different stripes and also play with the direction of the stripes.

That’s it. Really easy hack with dramatic results. This might just be my new favorite dress. Secret pajamas for sure.

Just reminder that Roscoe Month is almost over. Use the code ROSCOEMONTH for a discount on both the pdf and paper versions of this pattern through the end of March.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

ROSCOE DRESS BEACH COVERUP

March 21, 2018

 

 

I have been wanting to use the Roscoe Dress sewing pattern to make a swim coverup for a long time. I decided to make it happen for Roscoe Month and found this perfect cotton/nylon crochet fabric from the Fabric Store. I love that it has the see through, floral look that you find with lace in general, but this feels a bit more casual and everyday because it’s cotton and geometric. I noticed that they have a few other colors as well – white, maroon, and cobalt blue.

 

 

 

 

For the purposes of this photoshoot, I layered the dress over a black Ogden cami that I lengthened into a slip dress. I think I will wear it this way quite a bit actually and I love that I can wear it for everyday or over a swimsuit for traveling.

 

 

Because of the fabric being crochet and having holes in it, I made a few changes. For the parts of the dress that need more fine tuned sewing, I used a black rayon fabric instead of the lace fabric for those areas such as the neckband, neck ties, and neck facing. For the hem and ruffle I also played around with the fabric. I knew that the hem would be tricky so I turned my pattern pieces and cut the hem along the selvage so I wouldn’t actually have the hem it. I also sewed the raw edges of the ruffle on the outside of the fabric instead of the inside. I like the way that ended up looking. Because lace generally doesn’t fray, this is a perfect time to use the seam allowance as a design detail.

 

 

Just a reminder that the Roscoe is on sale thru the end of the month with the code ROSCOEMONTH. I have three more versions of the Roscoe to show you before the end of the month so be prepared for that.

MAKES PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LANDER ZIPPER EXPANSION PACK

March 12, 2018

Ever since releasing the Lander pants and shorts last year, I have been flooded with requests for a zipper option for this pattern. I am so excited to finally have it available for you with the Lander Zipper Expansion Pack.

If you have already sewn up the button fly option of the Lander pant, this expansion pack is perfect for you. I made sure to use as many of the same pattern pieces and instructions as possible so that this really is a natural extension of the original pattern. It is a bit more advanced than the button option, but I have provided detailed instructions, as well as some additional pattern pieces to make it as easy as possible.

 

One of my biggest pet peeves when sewing a zipper fly is shortening the zipper – especially metal ones. It’s the worst! So I made sure that all sizes use a standard size zipper (5″, 6″, or 7″). I prefer the metal jeans zippers, but you can also use the standard plastic ones if you prefer. The expansion pattern includes new pattern pieces for the right fly, left fly, and waistband, as well as a right fly extension to make sure that the zipper tucks into your pants nicely and is not visible when worn.

The expansion pack only comes as a pdf, but the print at home pattern is just 7 pages to tape, and there is a copy shop pattern included that works for both US and A0 printers.

 

Please note that you must have the original pdf or paper Lander pattern to make the zipper Landers. The expansion pack does not include all of the instructions or pattern pieces needed to complete the entire project.

You can find the pattern in my shop for purchase here.