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TUTORIALS

RIT DYING FOR LANDERS

September 5, 2018

I’ve had a hard time finding the exact color of non stretch denim that I wanted for some Lander pants, so I decided to give fabric dying a go. I went with RIT because it was easy to find and inexpensive. Honestly I had no idea or confidence in how this was going to go, so I didn’t want to invest too much. For fabric, I went with my tried and true bull denim in natural. White would work as well, but since I knew that I wanted a darker color in the end, I figured the natural was more likely to get me there.

I did two separate dye batches. I scoured the RIT website which has a great section on color formulas and went with potter’s clay as my first batch.

I bought the three colors it asked for – tangerine, apple green, and scarlet and got to work.

Essentially I just followed the directions on the bottle and on the website. I added salt which was recommended and used this paper towel to test the color before adding my fabric. One thing that made a more successful product this time (compared to past attempts) was getting a large enough bucket so there was a lot of movement, and also stirring a lot for the first 10 minutes.

I let it soak for a few hours with occasional stirring because I knew that I wanted a deep color.

The end result is this beautiful deep rust color that I love so much. I would say that it is a little more red than the intended hue, but it is still such a gorgeous color that I can’t be upset.

Next up, I wanted a true camel brown. It’s my favorite color to wear with a simple black turtleneck in the fall so I knew I needed to make it. I looked again at the RIT color formulas and landed on caramel.

I bought the golden yellow and cocoa brown dyes and used the same natural colored bull denim.

I used the same process as before and ended up with a perfect medium camel color.

All in all a big success. The only change I might make next time is to add a small amount of black to my dye to get a darker hue.

I can’t wait to make up a couple of Lander pants with these for the fall and winter which is fast approaching.

SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER INSIDE POCKET TUTORIAL

April 27, 2018

Today I want to share a simple hack for the Lander Pants and Shorts where you can flip the pockets to the inside instead of the patch pocket which comes standard with the pattern. And one great thing is that you can do it using the same pattern pieces. You use either the standard button front pattern like I did or the zipper expansion pack.

Cut all pattern pieces out as normal except for the Front Pant / Short and Front Pocket and Lining.

Place your Front Pocket pattern piece on top of your Front Pant / Short pattern piece, lining up the notches.

Trace the curve of the Front Pocket onto the Front Pant / Short.

Cut out two lining pieces using the standard Front Pocket pattern piece.

Trim the Front Pant / Short pattern piece along the curved marking that you made.

Tape the top piece to the Front Pocket pattern piece.

Cut out two of this altered Front Pocket pattern from your main fabric.

Cut out two Front Pant / Shorts with your new Front pattern piece.

Fuse the pocket fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the lining.

With right sides touching, pin and sew the curved edge of the Front Pant / Short to the Pocket Lining.

Trim seam allowance and clip / notch.

Flip the lining to the inside along the curved edge and press. Make sure the the lining is cheated slightly towards the inside so that it is not visible when worn.

Topstitch at 1/4″ from the curved edge.

Pin the right side of the Front Pocket piece (cut out of the main fabric) to the right side of the Pocket Lining along the two straight edges. Make sure the you are not pining it to the Front Pant / Short.

Stitch the two straight edges and finish seam allowances in your desired manner.

The pocket should be assembled, but still free from the Front Pant / Short except for the curved edge.

Pin and baste all layers along the top and side edges. That’s it, assemble the rest of your Landers according the the instructions.

Both the light wash denim and the heart cotton print for the lining are from the Fabric Store. The denim is the perfect vintage wash that I have been looking for and since it is about 11oz and non stretch, it was a great match for the Landers.

Here I am wearing my new pants. Admittedly I made them a tad too tight which is why I am standing so awkward. Hopefully I will fit into them at some point because I LOVE them. I am wearing them here with a sleeveless Nikko Top sewn up in rib knit from IndieSew.

MAKES PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LANDER ZIPPER EXPANSION PACK

March 12, 2018

Ever since releasing the Lander pants and shorts last year, I have been flooded with requests for a zipper option for this pattern. I am so excited to finally have it available for you with the Lander Zipper Expansion Pack.

If you have already sewn up the button fly option of the Lander pant, this expansion pack is perfect for you. I made sure to use as many of the same pattern pieces and instructions as possible so that this really is a natural extension of the original pattern. It is a bit more advanced than the button option, but I have provided detailed instructions, as well as some additional pattern pieces to make it as easy as possible.

 

One of my biggest pet peeves when sewing a zipper fly is shortening the zipper – especially metal ones. It’s the worst! So I made sure that all sizes use a standard size zipper (5″, 6″, or 7″). I prefer the metal jeans zippers, but you can also use the standard plastic ones if you prefer. The expansion pattern includes new pattern pieces for the right fly, left fly, and waistband, as well as a right fly extension to make sure that the zipper tucks into your pants nicely and is not visible when worn.

The expansion pack only comes as a pdf, but the print at home pattern is just 7 pages to tape, and there is a copy shop pattern included that works for both US and A0 printers.

 

Please note that you must have the original pdf or paper Lander pattern to make the zipper Landers. The expansion pack does not include all of the instructions or pattern pieces needed to complete the entire project.

You can find the pattern in my shop for purchase here.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER SUSPENDER HACK

February 12, 2018

 

I am so excited to share this super simple and super fun hack for the Lander pant pattern with you today. The best part about this hack is that you can add it to your existing Landers for one look and remove the straps to wear them as the original pants when you prefer.

The fabric for these Landers is from the Fabric Store in LA. It’s a navy twill that is just the perfect weight and structure for these pants. I am almost always drawn to black fabric, but for these pants I absolutely love changing it up to navy. It has more of that 70s vibe that I am into right now. I am wearing the Landers with a Nikko (view B) in a cream baby rib knit from JoAnns.

I don’t have step by step photos as this is so simple, but I will talk you through how I did it.

First I cut four long strips of fabric and interfaced each one so they wouldn’t stretch out. I wanted the finished suspenders to each be 35.5″ long and 1.5″ wide, so with seam allowance each strip was 36.5″ long and 2.5″ wide. This is of coarse personal preference. You will need to decide how long you want yours. I recommend sewing it longer than you think because you can always shorten them.

With right sides touching, sew two strips together leaving an opening to turn it right side out. Trim corners, and turn right side out. Repeat for second suspender.

Give it a good press making sure that all corners are sharp. Edgestitch around the outside of each suspender, closing up the opening you left at the same time.

With your finished Landers on, pin your suspenders so that they attach in the front and back where you want them to. I decided to have my front ones hit at the top of the pockets. In the back I crossed them and had them end about 3 inches out from center back on each side.

Now you need to sew buttonholes in each end of your suspenders and then hand sew the coordinating buttons to the inside waistband in the four spots your chose. Make sure that you don’t sew through your entire waistband or you will see the stitching on the outside. One tip I have is to choose very flat buttons so that you do not feel them on your waist when wearing it.

And that is it. Super simple and fun. I wore this outfit to a baby shower on Sunday and could not have felt more chic. You can find the Lander sewing pattern here and the Nikko pattern here. I hope you give it a try!

 

SEWALONG SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER SEWALONG DAY 5 – WAISTBAND / BUTTONS / HEM

September 22, 2017

Welcome back for the last day of the Lander sewalong. I am so excited to finish these up and see all of your versions. Let’s get started.

 

Step 20 – First thing we are going to do is baste the side seams and check for fit. To create a basting stitch, all you need to do is lengthen your stitch length as far as it goes so that it’s easy to unpick if need be.

Flip the back pant around so that the right side of the back and right side of the front are touching. Line up the side seams and pin.

Baste at a 1” seam allowance. The 1″ seam allowance gives you lots of wiggle room in case you need to let it out a bit around the hip etc…

Try the pants on, and adjust as necessary. Make sure that you pin the fly closed when you try them on to get an accurate idea of fit once the buttons are on. You may also want to try them on inside out so that you can easily pin the areas you want to adjust. (The seam allowance at the waist must stay at 1” so that the waistband will match up correctly, but you can tweak around the hips to get a perfect fit.) If you find that you need more room in the waist you will need to cut a new waistband. If you want to take it in at the waist you can make due, although your notches will not match up and you will need to trim some off of center front.

Return your stitch length to normal. Stitch each outside side seam. If necessary, unpick any visible basting stitches.

Trim the seam allowances down to 1/2”. Finish the seam allowances together in your desired manner ( I’m serging) and press towards the back pant or short. Turn the whole garment right side out.

 

Step 21 – Fold the long edges of the belt loop piece together, right sides touching. Sew along the long edge at 1/2” seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to 1/8”.

Using a loop turner or safety pin, turn the tube right side out. Press the tube flat so that the seam is along the center back.

Edgestitch at 1/8” along both sides. Cut the tube into 5 equal 3 1/2″ sections. Discard any extra.

Step 22 – With the right side of the belt loop touching the right side of your pant or short, pin one raw edge flush against the top edge.

One should be centered over the center back seam, the next two centered over the side seams, and the last two flush with the inside edge of the front pockets. Baste the belt loops to hold them in place.

 

Step 23 – Press the unnotched long edge of the waistband up by 3/8”, wrong sides touching.

With 1/2” hanging off of the center front edges and right sides touching, pin the notched side of the waistband to the top of the pant / short. The notches on the waistband will match up with the notches on the front pant / short, the sideseams, and center back.

 

Step 24 – Starting at the left center front edge, stitch around the whole waistband, ending at the right center front edge. If you get a little pinch in your fabric like I did below, unpick that area and then ease it back in. This can easily happen since the waistband is stabilized with interfacing and the pant which isn’t may grow a bit with sewing.

Grade the seams to reduce bulk. To do this, trim the pant seam allowance to 1/4″ and the waistband seam allowance to 3/8″.

 

Step 25 – Press the whole waistband up and away from the main pant, and over the seam allowance.

 

Step 26 – Take the folded edge of the waistband and pull it down (right sides touching) towards the waistband seam along the right center front so that it overlaps it by about 1/16”. Pin.

Stitch at 1/2” seam allowance so that it is flush with the fly. Repeat for left side and clip corners.

 

Step 27 – Flip the waistband right side out. On the inside waistband, make sure that folded edge covers the seam by about 1/16” and pin in place. Press the whole waistband so that you get a nice squared edge at each center front corner.

 

Step 28 – On the front of the pant, stitch in the ditch in the seam between the main pant / short and the waistband, catching the edge of the folded waistband on the inside of the garment. The goal is that this stitching is virtually invisible since it is hidden in the joining of at seam. If you don’t catch the inside waistband for small amounts, don’t worry as you will be edgestitching in the next step which will catch it.

outside

inside

 

Step 29 – Starting at center back, edgestitch at 1/8” around the entire perimeter of the waistband, pivoting at each corner.

Step 30 – Stitch on top of each belt loop 1/4” below the waistband seam. You want this stitching to be secure so stitch back and forth a few times.

Press the belt loop upwards.

Fold the top down by about 1/2” so that it is flush with the top of the waistband. Press and pin.

Stitch back and forth a few times, about 1/8” from the top, to secure.

 

Step 31 – Sew the buttonhole on the waistband according to the marking on your waistband pattern piece. If you have some, use fray check at this time to reinforce your buttonholes.

Open all four of your buttonholes. If you don’t have a buttonhole opener you may have a hard time opening them since there are so many layers. You might want to consider getting one in the future if you think you will be sewing a lot of pants or jeans. It makes life so much easier. Although I have also heard that razor blade and a steady hand do wonders in a pinch.

 

Step 32 – With your fly lined up, use a disappearing pen or similar tool to mark your buttonhole placement through your cut buttonholes. The marking should be on the inside (closest to center front) edge of your buttonhole.

Attach your buttons to the right fly and right waistband accordingly. If you are using jeans buttons and this is your first time, don’t fret. It’s easier than you think. Use a sharp object like an awl to poke a hole.

Put the male end of the button through the back of the hole and then place the female part on top of that.

Turn it upside down onto a hard surface and use a hammer to hit the back of the button so that it secures it in to the front section. You can kind pull on the button to make sure that it is attached, but you can usually feel it securing.

 

Step 33 – Fold the bottom raw edge of the pant or short up by 1/4”, wrong sides touching, and press.

For the shorts, fold up by another 1”. For the pants, fold up by another 3”. Because there is such a wide hem, this is a good place to try on the pants and adjust the length a bit. Pin and press.

Topstitch at 7/8” for the shorts and 2 7/8” for the pants.

 

That’s it, you are finished! Give the whole thing a final press and wear them proudly. I will take photos of mine and post them on the blog next week. Please tag me if you post yours so I see them. You can use the tags #landerpant #landershort and #truebias.

 

If you have any questions or comments, please comment below or send me an email. Thank you for sewing along!