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SEWING TUTORIALS

SEVENTIES INSPIRED PATCH POCKET LANDER TUTORIAL

February 6, 2020

The Lander Pant and Short is the perfect blank canvas to create a very 70’s inspired patch pocket pant or short. Whether using the original button fly pattern or the zipper expansion, with just a few changes and the free patch pocket download (below), you will be all set.

The first thing I recommend doing is leaving off both the original front and back pockets. You will be replacing the front pockets with the patch pocket pattern pieces and I would just leave off the back pockets all together. This really adds to the 70’s look of the pant.

Go ahead and sew up your Landers through the creation of the fly. I recommend adding the patch pockets at the step where you baste the side seams of your Landers. This means pausing after step 19 in the original instructions and after step 26 in the zipper expansion instructions. Once you get to this step, set your pants or shorts aside and create your pockets.

A few things about the patch pocket pattern pieces. They come in sizes small, medium and large and recommended size ranges for each one. These are just suggestions though. You could use any of these pattern pieces on any size of Lander depending on how big you want to your pocket to be. This is your own personal preference. For reference, both of my samples were sewn with the small pocket sizes on a size 6 pant. I think next time I will try the medium size.

Another thing to note is that there are two different shapes to choose from. The angled pocket and the rounded pocket. The construction is very similar, although I would say that the angled pocket is a bit easier, so keep that in mind when choosing.

Click on the link below to access the pdf file. Print your pattern pieces off making sure you are using no scaling and printing at 100%. Cut out two coordinating pockets from your main fabric and make sure to mark your notches.

https://www.truebias.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/TRUE-BIAS-LANDER-PATCH-POCKET-1.pdf

Unless stated the following instructions apply to both the angled and rounded patch pocket patterns.

Step 1 – With wrong sides touching, press in the top edge by 1/4″.

Step 2 – Take this folded edge and press it back at the notches, right sides touching. Pin in place on each side.

Step 3

Angled Pocket Only – Starting at the upper right hand corner, stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance down the right side, around the bottom, and up the left side, pivoting at each corner and backstitching at the beginning and end.

Rounded Pocket Only – Stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the upper left and right sides for the distance of the folded down band backstitching to secure.

Rounded Pocket Only – Starting and stopping below the band and using a basting or gather stitch length, stitch around the sides and bottom of the rounded pocket in 1/2″ seam allowance. Slightly pull on the top thread to “gather” the bottom rounded section of the pocket. This will help turn in the seam allowance smoothly.

Step 4 – Clip the top corners and turn the folded edge right side out. Fold in the seam allowance at the stitching line. Give it a good press.

Step 5 – Topstitch along the bottom folded edge of the band to secure as shown in the picture.

Step 6 – Now it is time the attach the pockets to the front of your Landers. Like I mentioned before, the best time to do this is when you are basting the side seams for fit. I recommend pinning them on where you think they should go first. This is personal preference and takes some trial and error, but just to give you a ball park, mine were about 3 inches from center front and 2 inches from the top raw edge of my Lander fronts. Once they are pinned on, baste the sides seams of your Landers and try them on. Adjust the position of your pockets as necessary.

Step 7 – Once you are happy with the placement, pin them to secure. Pay extra attention to measuring their placement so they are equal from center front and the top. The fly can make them look unbalanced so you really have to trust your ruler for this step. Rip out the basting on the sides seams of your Landers and topstitch the sides and bottom of the patch pockets on. Do this before you sew up your sides in it’s final stitch length.


That is it! Sew up your Landers according to the normal instructions and you are good to go.

TUTORIALS

RIT DYING FOR LANDERS

September 5, 2018

I’ve had a hard time finding the exact color of non stretch denim that I wanted for some Lander pants, so I decided to give fabric dying a go. I went with RIT because it was easy to find and inexpensive. Honestly I had no idea or confidence in how this was going to go, so I didn’t want to invest too much. For fabric, I went with my tried and true bull denim in natural. White would work as well, but since I knew that I wanted a darker color in the end, I figured the natural was more likely to get me there.

I did two separate dye batches. I scoured the RIT website which has a great section on color formulas and went with potter’s clay as my first batch.

I bought the three colors it asked for – tangerine, apple green, and scarlet and got to work.

Essentially I just followed the directions on the bottle and on the website. I added salt which was recommended and used this paper towel to test the color before adding my fabric. One thing that made a more successful product this time (compared to past attempts) was getting a large enough bucket so there was a lot of movement, and also stirring a lot for the first 10 minutes.

I let it soak for a few hours with occasional stirring because I knew that I wanted a deep color.

The end result is this beautiful deep rust color that I love so much. I would say that it is a little more red than the intended hue, but it is still such a gorgeous color that I can’t be upset.

Next up, I wanted a true camel brown. It’s my favorite color to wear with a simple black turtleneck in the fall so I knew I needed to make it. I looked again at the RIT color formulas and landed on caramel.

I bought the golden yellow and cocoa brown dyes and used the same natural colored bull denim.

I used the same process as before and ended up with a perfect medium camel color.

All in all a big success. The only change I might make next time is to add a small amount of black to my dye to get a darker hue.

I can’t wait to make up a couple of Lander pants with these for the fall and winter which is fast approaching.

SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER INSIDE POCKET TUTORIAL

April 27, 2018

Today I want to share a simple hack for the Lander Pants and Shorts where you can flip the pockets to the inside instead of the patch pocket which comes standard with the pattern. And one great thing is that you can do it using the same pattern pieces. You use either the standard button front pattern like I did or the zipper expansion pack.

Cut all pattern pieces out as normal except for the Front Pant / Short and Front Pocket and Lining.

Place your Front Pocket pattern piece on top of your Front Pant / Short pattern piece, lining up the notches.

Trace the curve of the Front Pocket onto the Front Pant / Short.

Cut out two lining pieces using the standard Front Pocket pattern piece.

Trim the Front Pant / Short pattern piece along the curved marking that you made.

Tape the top piece to the Front Pocket pattern piece.

Cut out two of this altered Front Pocket pattern from your main fabric.

Cut out two Front Pant / Shorts with your new Front pattern piece.

Fuse the pocket fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the lining.

With right sides touching, pin and sew the curved edge of the Front Pant / Short to the Pocket Lining.

Trim seam allowance and clip / notch.

Flip the lining to the inside along the curved edge and press. Make sure the the lining is cheated slightly towards the inside so that it is not visible when worn.

Topstitch at 1/4″ from the curved edge.

Pin the right side of the Front Pocket piece (cut out of the main fabric) to the right side of the Pocket Lining along the two straight edges. Make sure the you are not pining it to the Front Pant / Short.

Stitch the two straight edges and finish seam allowances in your desired manner.

The pocket should be assembled, but still free from the Front Pant / Short except for the curved edge.

Pin and baste all layers along the top and side edges. That’s it, assemble the rest of your Landers according the the instructions.

Both the light wash denim and the heart cotton print for the lining are from the Fabric Store. The denim is the perfect vintage wash that I have been looking for and since it is about 11oz and non stretch, it was a great match for the Landers.

Here I am wearing my new pants. Admittedly I made them a tad too tight which is why I am standing so awkward. Hopefully I will fit into them at some point because I LOVE them. I am wearing them here with a sleeveless Nikko Top sewn up in rib knit from IndieSew.

MAKES PATTERNMAKING SEWING

LANDER ZIPPER EXPANSION PACK

March 12, 2018

Ever since releasing the Lander pants and shorts last year, I have been flooded with requests for a zipper option for this pattern. I am so excited to finally have it available for you with the Lander Zipper Expansion Pack.

If you have already sewn up the button fly option of the Lander pant, this expansion pack is perfect for you. I made sure to use as many of the same pattern pieces and instructions as possible so that this really is a natural extension of the original pattern. It is a bit more advanced than the button option, but I have provided detailed instructions, as well as some additional pattern pieces to make it as easy as possible.

 

One of my biggest pet peeves when sewing a zipper fly is shortening the zipper – especially metal ones. It’s the worst! So I made sure that all sizes use a standard size zipper (5″, 6″, or 7″). I prefer the metal jeans zippers, but you can also use the standard plastic ones if you prefer. The expansion pattern includes new pattern pieces for the right fly, left fly, and waistband, as well as a right fly extension to make sure that the zipper tucks into your pants nicely and is not visible when worn.

The expansion pack only comes as a pdf, but the print at home pattern is just 7 pages to tape, and there is a copy shop pattern included that works for both US and A0 printers.

 

Please note that you must have the original pdf or paper Lander pattern to make the zipper Landers. The expansion pack does not include all of the instructions or pattern pieces needed to complete the entire project.

You can find the pattern in my shop for purchase here.

MAKES SEWING TUTORIALS

LANDER SUSPENDER HACK

February 12, 2018

 

I am so excited to share this super simple and super fun hack for the Lander pant pattern with you today. The best part about this hack is that you can add it to your existing Landers for one look and remove the straps to wear them as the original pants when you prefer.

The fabric for these Landers is from the Fabric Store in LA. It’s a navy twill that is just the perfect weight and structure for these pants. I am almost always drawn to black fabric, but for these pants I absolutely love changing it up to navy. It has more of that 70s vibe that I am into right now. I am wearing the Landers with a Nikko (view B) in a cream baby rib knit from JoAnns.

I don’t have step by step photos as this is so simple, but I will talk you through how I did it.

First I cut four long strips of fabric and interfaced each one so they wouldn’t stretch out. I wanted the finished suspenders to each be 35.5″ long and 1.5″ wide, so with seam allowance each strip was 36.5″ long and 2.5″ wide. This is of coarse personal preference. You will need to decide how long you want yours. I recommend sewing it longer than you think because you can always shorten them.

With right sides touching, sew two strips together leaving an opening to turn it right side out. Trim corners, and turn right side out. Repeat for second suspender.

Give it a good press making sure that all corners are sharp. Edgestitch around the outside of each suspender, closing up the opening you left at the same time.

With your finished Landers on, pin your suspenders so that they attach in the front and back where you want them to. I decided to have my front ones hit at the top of the pockets. In the back I crossed them and had them end about 3 inches out from center back on each side.

Now you need to sew buttonholes in each end of your suspenders and then hand sew the coordinating buttons to the inside waistband in the four spots your chose. Make sure that you don’t sew through your entire waistband or you will see the stitching on the outside. One tip I have is to choose very flat buttons so that you do not feel them on your waist when wearing it.

And that is it. Super simple and fun. I wore this outfit to a baby shower on Sunday and could not have felt more chic. You can find the Lander sewing pattern here and the Nikko pattern here. I hope you give it a try!