SEWALONG SEWING

SALIDA SEWALONG DAY 1 – ASSEMBLING FRONT AND BACK PANELS (STEPS 1-5)

December 3, 2018

I am super excited to be starting the Salida Skirt Sewalong today. By the end of today’s post we will have the front and back panels assembled and be ready to insert the zipper tomorrow.

You should already have your fabric cut out and ready to start sewing, but just for reference, here are the fabrics that I am using for the sewalong. My main fabric is a brown bull denim. I also have some floral cotton voile that I am using to line my pockets and some medium weight fusible interfacing.

For notions I am using coordinating all purpose thread, a jeans weight sewing machine needle (use a weight that coordinates best with the weight of your fabric) , a hand sewing needle, a skirt hook and eye, and a zipper. I have designed this pattern in a way that will not require you to shorten your zipper (one of my least favorite things). Instead, use the zipper length that coordinates with your size in the instructions. I am using a blue zipper for this tutorial so that it will be easier to see in the photos. I recommend trying to find a zipper closer to the color of your main fabric.

Please note that the following illustrations depict View A (fitted skirt). Unless noted, all instructions are applicable to both views.

Step 1 – Before starting, make sure that you have transferred all notches and symbols from your pattern pieces to your fabric. To keep it easy, I use a disappearing pen and mark on the wrong side of the fabric pieces.

This includes the guideline on the front yoke,

the dots and guidelines on the front center pieces,

and the dots on the back center pieces for View A only (these are for the slit).

Next, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband and the upper edge of the pocket bag pieces.

Step 2 – With right sides touching, pin one front center panel to the coordinating front side panel, matching notches.

Sew the seam. Trim seam allowance to ¼”, and finish in your desired manner. I find that the easiest way to do this is to serge because I can also trim it down at the same time. This is the method I will be using for the sewalong, but feel free to use pinking shears or a ziz zag stitch to finish your seams if you prefer. These options will work great.

Press the finished seam allowance towards the front side panel. On the right side, topstitch the front side skirt ⅛” from the seam, catching the seam allowance underneath.

Step 3 – With right sides touching, pin the corresponding front yoke to the assembled front skirt panel, matching notches. These are opposite curves so it can feel a little awkward. Just do your best, knowing that you can adjust it as you go. The most important thing is to make sure that the two ends are sewn at the correct angle.

Sew the seam.

Clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. This will help the yoke curve nicely around your body without any pulling.

Trim the seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press up towards the front yoke.

Topstitch ⅛” from the seam on the front yoke, catching the seam allowance underneath. Repeat steps 2-3 for other front skirt pieces.

You can set the front panels aside for now. We are going to be sewing up the back panels in the same manner that you assembled the fronts. ( I have included less photos for the backs as I did for the fronts so that it is not redundant. If you need extra help, refer to the photos for the fronts.)

Step 4 – With right sides touching, pin one back center panel to its corresponding back side panel, matching notches. Sew the seam. Trim seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press towards the back side panel. On the right side, topstitch on the back side skirt ⅛” from seam.

Step 5 – With right sides touching, pin the corresponding back yoke to the assembled back skirt panel, matching notches. Sew the seam. Clip the seam allowance up to the line of stitching, being careful not to cut into the stitching. Trim the seam allowance to ¼”, finish in your desired manner, and press up towards the back yoke. Topstitch inside the back yoke, ⅛” from seam, catching the seam allowance underneath. Repeat steps 4-5 for remaining back skirt pieces. Set aside the assembled skirt back panels for now.

That is it for today. Here is the Salida Skirt Sewalong schedule for the remainder of the week.

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 2 – Sewing the Zipper (Steps 6 – 18)

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 3 – Pockets and Back Assembly (Steps 19 – 25)

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 4 – Sideseams and Waistband (Steps 26 – 34)

Salida Skirt Sewalong Day 5 – Topsitiching, Hems, and Hook & Eye (Steps 35 – 38)

 

Thank you for following along! You can find the Salida Skirt sewing pattern  in both paper and digital format here.

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