SEWALONG

NIKKO SEWALONG DAY 4 – HEMS AND SLITS

February 22, 2018

Today we are going to finish up your Nikko top or dress by hemming them finishing up the side slits for the dress views.

Step 15 – Turn the hemline up by 1” (2.5 cm). Pin and press. I am using some fusible knit tape to prevent stretching out the hem which you can see below.

 

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. I like to use my twin stretch needle for my tops because the stitching is pretty visible on these thinner knits. I think that the twin needle looks really professional.

And that is it. Views A & B are finished!

Now, if you are sewing up Views C or D (the dress views) then we are going to finish up the side slits and hem.

Step 16 – If you havn’t already, press the side seam allowances open above the dot and continue to press it open below the dot and pin in place so that it is an even 3/4” on each side. It is very important that this stitching does not stretch out as you sew it. I chose to use the heat n bond soft stretch to help, but I also decreased the tension on my sewing machine which seemed to do the trick. Practice with scrap fabric until it looks right for you.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, edgestitch around the three sides of each slit, pivoting at the corners and stitching just above the large dot as pictured. I went with an elongated stretch stitch for this as I find that with the ribknit fabric the stitches pretty much disappear into the thickness.

 

Step 17 – Turn the hemline of the front dress up by 1” (2.5cm). Pin and press. If using a stabilizing knit tape apply here as well. You do not want the stitching to stretch out the fabric or you will end up with a fish tail effect at the bottom.

Using a zigzag stitch, coverstitch or double stretch needle, topstitch at 7/8” (2.3 cm) from the folded hem to secure. (If your fabric is very stretchy, you may want to consider using some fusible knit tape to stabilize the hem before stitching.) Repeat for back hemline.

Congrats, Views C & D are finished!

 

Let me know if you have any questions and please tag your versions with #nikkotop or #nikkodress so that I can see them.

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